AME T SHOX
#152
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
I did, and the video posted here is correct. The large delrin spacer, small oring, and conical spacer sit loose on the shock shaft whilst you screw down the shock cap with large oring (installed in the shock cap).
Hope this helps. An official video will be posted soon.
Hope this helps. An official video will be posted soon.
#153
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
I did, and the video posted here is correct. The large delrin spacer, small oring, and conical spacer sit loose on the shock shaft whilst you screw down the shock cap with large oring (installed in the shock cap).
Hope this helps. An official video will be posted soon.
Hope this helps. An official video will be posted soon.
#154
I did, and the video posted here is correct. The large delrin spacer, small oring, and conical spacer sit loose on the shock shaft whilst you screw down the shock cap with large oring (installed in the shock cap).
Hope this helps. An official video will be posted soon.
Hope this helps. An official video will be posted soon.
It clearly show's the small derlin washer sitting into the shock cap, followed by the blue O-ring, larger derlin washer then all held in cap with large clear O ring.
#155
i think the picture in the instructions are the wrong way round, i have built mine, large white cap then blue o-ring then plastic conical spacer which in turn fits in to shock cap.
#156
Tech Addict
Don't misunderstand me, but you are seeing it wrong. That picture is only to show you how the guidance washers sit on the top shock cap, not even the blue oring is there beetween the 2 pieces, is a side cut view of the top body section. If you take a look into phase 2 it as a picture just like that one, but with the bottom body section.
#157
Don't misunderstand me, but you are seeing it wrong. That picture is only to show you how the guidance washers sit on the top shock cap, not even the blue oring is there beetween the 2 pieces, is a side cut view of the top body section. If you take a look into phase 2 it as a picture just like that one, but with the bottom body section.
He should update his instructions and also provide official video as promised..
Thanks for your help,
Keith
#158
Tech Addict
I did this on my own and for sure it is not perfect, in the end i'm just a passionate hobbyist. If this video could help you guys even better, that's why i did it.
Any more questions i will try to answer.
#159
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
ok, did a little rebuild ;-) both building options result in the same ;-) if you build it like in the video from Jorge it is easier to get rid of the excessive oil in the shock. It is somewhat more difficult to get the cap seated right before you tighten it.
If you build it the other way (following the logical picture of the manual) you are sure to have some excessive oil wich can't get away. This way you can't tighten the cap far enough. After letting the shocks sit a day on the bench the excessive oil has come out (through the o-rings/shaft) and you can tighten the cap some more. This isn't the best way of building a shock, at least not at the track ;-) unless you can find the accurate level of shockoil...
After both builds the shockcap and the internals (seals, o-ring, etc) come off the same way, all internals are seated in the shockcap. So constructionwise it comes down to the same ;-) but offcourse the video is the best option to use.
One more thing, for a perfect seating of the piston on the shaft use a 0,2 or 0,1 shim between the piston and the e-clip. I found a little play on all shafts.
If you build it the other way (following the logical picture of the manual) you are sure to have some excessive oil wich can't get away. This way you can't tighten the cap far enough. After letting the shocks sit a day on the bench the excessive oil has come out (through the o-rings/shaft) and you can tighten the cap some more. This isn't the best way of building a shock, at least not at the track ;-) unless you can find the accurate level of shockoil...
After both builds the shockcap and the internals (seals, o-ring, etc) come off the same way, all internals are seated in the shockcap. So constructionwise it comes down to the same ;-) but offcourse the video is the best option to use.
One more thing, for a perfect seating of the piston on the shaft use a 0,2 or 0,1 shim between the piston and the e-clip. I found a little play on all shafts.
#160
ok, did a little rebuild ;-) both building options result in the same ;-) if you build it like in the video from Jorge it is easier to get rid of the excessive oil in the shock. It is somewhat more difficult to get the cap seated right before you tighten it.
If you build it the other way (following the logical picture of the manual) you are sure to have some excessive oil wich can't get away. This way you can't tighten the cap far enough. After letting the shocks sit a day on the bench the excessive oil has come out (through the o-rings/shaft) and you can tighten the cap some more. This isn't the best way of building a shock, at least not at the track ;-) unless you can find the accurate level of shockoil...
After both builds the shockcap and the internals (seals, o-ring, etc) come off the same way, all internals are seated in the shockcap. So constructionwise it comes down to the same ;-) but offcourse the video is the best option to use.
One more thing, for a perfect seating of the piston on the shaft use a 0,2 or 0,1 shim between the piston and the e-clip. I found a little play on all shafts.
If you build it the other way (following the logical picture of the manual) you are sure to have some excessive oil wich can't get away. This way you can't tighten the cap far enough. After letting the shocks sit a day on the bench the excessive oil has come out (through the o-rings/shaft) and you can tighten the cap some more. This isn't the best way of building a shock, at least not at the track ;-) unless you can find the accurate level of shockoil...
After both builds the shockcap and the internals (seals, o-ring, etc) come off the same way, all internals are seated in the shockcap. So constructionwise it comes down to the same ;-) but offcourse the video is the best option to use.
One more thing, for a perfect seating of the piston on the shaft use a 0,2 or 0,1 shim between the piston and the e-clip. I found a little play on all shafts.
#162
Hi,
I bought T shox for my T4, with the springs,
Do you have a starting set up for them please for high grip carpet and running LRP CPX?
I use MM oil and the carpet is the same as the Grand Prix des 3 Frontières in Longwy ( France)
can I use X ray T4 springs please or only T shox springs?
thanx,
Nico'
I bought T shox for my T4, with the springs,
Do you have a starting set up for them please for high grip carpet and running LRP CPX?
I use MM oil and the carpet is the same as the Grand Prix des 3 Frontières in Longwy ( France)
can I use X ray T4 springs please or only T shox springs?
thanx,
Nico'
#163
Tech Addict
Hi,
I bought T shox for my T4, with the springs,
Do you have a starting set up for them please for high grip carpet and running LRP CPX?
I use MM oil and the carpet is the same as the Grand Prix des 3 Frontières in Longwy ( France)
can I use X ray T4 springs please or only T shox springs?
thanx,
Nico'
I bought T shox for my T4, with the springs,
Do you have a starting set up for them please for high grip carpet and running LRP CPX?
I use MM oil and the carpet is the same as the Grand Prix des 3 Frontières in Longwy ( France)
can I use X ray T4 springs please or only T shox springs?
thanx,
Nico'
You have a starting point from the Team in Germany:
std piston drilled up to 1.2mm (3×1,2mm piston)
MR33 500wt shock oil
Rebound spring – Short/Hard
T-Springs
Front and Rear – Yellow (Carpet Medium)
Hope this helps.
#164
I think you can use the xray ones, but not tested yet.
You have a starting point from the Team in Germany:
std piston drilled up to 1.2mm (3×1,2mm piston)
MR33 500wt shock oil
Rebound spring – Short/Hard
T-Springs
Front and Rear – Yellow (Carpet Medium)
Hope this helps.
You have a starting point from the Team in Germany:
std piston drilled up to 1.2mm (3×1,2mm piston)
MR33 500wt shock oil
Rebound spring – Short/Hard
T-Springs
Front and Rear – Yellow (Carpet Medium)
Hope this helps.
front and rear are the same springs, the shorts one?
if you have a link to find 1,2mm drill please?
#165
Tech Addict