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3 Racing Sakura D3 CS Drift

Old 01-12-2013, 06:36 PM
  #1111  
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Originally Posted by jimmyzrx View Post
remember one side has reverse threads. that got me the other nite i could not get them to thread lol.
lol they're turnbuckles they have a left and a right handed thread! both ends should be the same diameter if not something is wrong
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Old 01-12-2013, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by pickled View Post
yeah I had the issue with the alloy sweepers touching the set screws I use for droop and had to give them a turn to get them out of the way might just take them out.

I just adjusted my arms to fit my chassis better and removed the droop screws now there is no problem
That's what I had done to the front, I took out the droop screws
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Old 01-12-2013, 06:54 PM
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I was doing more research regarding caster and everything point to positive caster.
So, I was thinking about reversing our yokomo c-arms for the KPI because right now the orientation is for negative caster.

Correct me if I am wrong....maybe next week I can try it out and get some practice to see if it drives better.

Also, thanks for posting updates to TQRCRACING...I'm going to place an order. They have the rear casters and all springs in stock!
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by eunique View Post
I was doing more research regarding caster and everything point to positive caster.
So, I was thinking about reversing our yokomo c-arms for the KPI because right now the orientation is for negative caster.

Correct me if I am wrong....maybe next week I can try it out and get some practice to see if it drives better.

Also, thanks for posting updates to TQRCRACING...I'm going to place an order. They have the rear casters and all springs in stock!
here's a pic I pinched from DM. My setup is positive with the link on the front? I think I have about 10 - 11* positive caster if you turn the link around it goes to about 20 - 25* and is way to extreme.
If you haven't ground the centre right out that may be causing it? I ground the centre out of the link right back to the arms and shimmed it at the rear


After measuring I have 13* positive caster!

Last edited by pickled; 01-12-2013 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:13 PM
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Yeah the threads are reversed but the machine on the threads was a bit off. I took them next door to my neighbors and he rethread them just a little to give more grip for the threading. Worked like a charm.

As td-civ stated though, they are a bit wiggly when on the ball end. Going to upgrade then ends soon.

Thanks for the input!
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by k0t0g View Post
Yeah the threads are reversed but the machine on the threads was a bit off. I took them next door to my neighbors and he rethread them just a little to give more grip for the threading. Worked like a charm.

As td-civ stated though, they are a bit wiggly when on the ball end. Going to upgrade then ends soon.

Thanks for the input!
That is odd, I never ran into that problem.
Glad you got it sorted out though.
Im using better ends now...and way better, gets rid of slop.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by pickled View Post
here's a pic I pinched from DM. My setup is positive with the link on the front? I think I have about 10 - 11* positive caster if you turn the link around it goes to about 20 - 25* and is way to extreme.
If you haven't ground the centre right out that may be causing it? I ground the centre out of the link right back to the arms and shimmed it at the rear

After measuring I have 13* positive caster!
Oh..ok. thanks for the quick reply.
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:12 PM
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Questions?? what are the setscrews and shocktowershims for?

noob-questions here, i can't seem to figure out the function of some parts

* what are the M3x6 Set Screws for on the lower arms at the c-hubs (p12,13)? They don't seem closeby enough to lock the pin?

* and what about the M8x2 Shock Tower Shims (p8,9)? There's an M4x0.3 steel shim spacer onthere already, so the button screws can't lockup the bearings anyway?

thx
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kwadruppel View Post
noob-questions here, i can't seem to figure out the function of some parts

* what are the M3x6 Set Screws for on the lower arms at the c-hubs (p12,13)? They don't seem closeby enough to lock the pin?

* and what about the M8x2 Shock Tower Shims (p8,9)? There's an M4x0.3 steel shim spacer onthere already, so the button screws can't lockup the bearings anyway?

thx
Ok the set screw screws in till it's flush with the C-hub. The shock tower shim is pink anodised aluminium it has a bevel on the front side it's used to make sure you don't pull the bearing through the bulk heads and the rear pulley mount.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:29 AM
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thanks for sharing this nice rc cars here. they all are really nice.. i am also looking to buy a rc bil .but i don't know which one will be best for me electric or nitro one.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:36 AM
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thanks for sharing this nice rc cars here. they all are really nice.. i am also looking to buy a rc bil .but i don't know which one will be best for me electric or nitro one.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by adam777 View Post
thanks for sharing this nice rc cars here. they all are really nice.. i am also looking to buy a rc bil .but i don't know which one will be best for me electric or nitro one.
I'd go electric! not only does nitro cost heaps but you pollute the environment and drop oil on tracks that electric drifters may use. I hate the nitro dudes at my LHS they have some sort of superiority complex but nowadays electric is just as fast anyway.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by adam777 View Post
thanks for sharing this nice rc cars here. they all are really nice.. i am also looking to buy a rc bil .but i don't know which one will be best for me electric or nitro one.
if your beginner, go with electric, it is so much easier to troubleshoot/fix if something is wrong, electric is so simple to work with vs nitro, and like pickled said they are just as fast as nitro with lipo/brushless systems now, maybe some are even faster than nitro
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by kotar View Post
if your beginner, go with electric, it is so much easier to troubleshoot/fix if something is wrong, electric is so simple to work with vs nitro, and like pickled said they are just as fast as nitro with lipo/brushless systems now, maybe some are even faster than nitro
that is true..there are some now (with using Lipo batteries) that are faster than nitro cars.

and drifting is more controllable than nitro, plus usually indoor tracks are only for battery operated, not nitro

i almost made the mistake of going nitro when i got back into the r/c hobby.
i am so glad that i went battery route.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:30 AM
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Thought I'd give you guys an update about my KPI mod I'ts finally complete I got my MST short arm alloy uprights today and installed here is a couple of pics.
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