eunique

iTrader: (3)

supposedly the weights in the instructions are incorrect. I used it stock initially...then started playing with settings.
I am now using 30wt all around and have done slow rebound mod to rear shocks. and use stiffer springs in front now.

pickled

I originally put the heavier oil in the front but after playing around with it I bought some #400 and #1300 oil and put the heavier in the rear I also changed rear pistons to 4 holes. When you set the ride height with your gauge the front shocks adjuster is nearly all the way down so I also used some tamiya sping clips to get a bit more adjustment! the o-ring that comes with the shocks goes inside the adjuster rings. Also do yourself a favour and get yourself a Front One Way either a SAK-D324 or a SAK-59/V2/PK (leave the spacer out of the 59). With your CVD's as mentioned earlier strip them down grind a flat on the pins and reassemble with grease and thread lock on the grub screw.

I got my 22T alloy pulley today and installed it all alloy pulleys now. I can't wait till they release the alloy diff pulleys now and when they do I think that's the time to do the full tear down.

SerpentCT4S

iTrader: (95)

What do the shock oil weights they give you in the kit convert to?

pickled

not sure different brands have different viscosity but the same weight I think it works out to like 20 weight and about 60 weight? just buy the # online you can get it at rcMart

eunique

iTrader: (3)

I'm not quite sure. I've read that the stock settings were reversed and people were using the heavier oil up front and switching the rear to front springs.
I've pr personally kept the stock shock settings initially and practiced with that until I read more on settings with link below.
I then went to stiffer springs for front, kept same oil weight all around to reduce the variables and played with shock mount settings.

http://driftmission.com/guides/suspe...gearing-guide/

pickled

I read that guide as well It's good but needs more info.

I got the flu yuck think it's the swine variety too lol.

THERE ARE MORE HOP UPS AVAILABLE NOW

SAK-D302/PK Alum. Motor Mount Heatsink with Fan Mount For Sakura D3

SAK-D315/PK Aluminum Front Bulkhead For Sakura D3

SAK-D322/SG SSG Graphite Upper Deck For Sakura D3
lol but the front bulkhead isn't much good without the bearing covers
they keep releasing things in no order

sgp-chris

Where?

eunique

iTrader: (3)

WOOOHOOOOO!!!! except...it's still not everything
i was hoping all were released so i can make one big order

hope you feel better..

pickled

yeah I starting to feel a bit better today lol

They are going to drag out the release of the hop ups for sure, I bet we'll still be waiting for the bottom deck in the new year lol.

Saw you are messing with your zero! what is the CS ratio on it now?

eunique

iTrader: (3)

yes...trying it out..right now my Zero is 1.59 CS ratio...but waiting for 16T center gear which will get me to 1.79 CS ratio...so get me closer to my D3. also waiting for my order from rcmart for FOW for the Zero and other parts that will hopefully help with the belt tensioner.
the one I modded isn't working out too well.

also got some practice with D3 at track yesterday. dropped my FDR to 7.11 which is better for the 8.5T I'm using. power band feels better and I dnt need to go full throttle as much...better able to feather throttle control for more controlled drifts as opposed to hitting the rail guards as much

pickled

looks like you need a smaller belt? that spreadsheet program might be able to help figure out what size belt you'll need?

what was your FDR before you dropped it what size pinion did you go up too?

eunique

iTrader: (3)

took apart me front one way today to try and trouble shoot that hanging / sticking feel on the left side . decreased everything and oiled up. .replaced bearings that I had whichever ones matched from my Yeah Racing bearing set couldn't find one that matches the inside bearing of the front knuckles.

eunique

iTrader: (3)

my FDR was 8something..dropped it down to 7.11 using 28 pinion, 110 spur.
my motors suggested ratio is 6.0 to 7.0 for on road cars

yes, I really do need a smaller belt. but don't know how to figure it out.
any advice?

pickled

that full belt drive conversion had a spreadsheet for working out the belt size! they are for those fingertech belts but they run the same pitch 3mm so If you measure between the two axles (the rear pulley axle and the centre drive axle) and input the size of the pulleys it should give you a size close to what you need even if you use the fingertech belts they are stronger anyway.

what about the D3 rear belt? do you have a spare or are they too small sorry it's to long 183T and your zero is 177T I think

A bit off topic here but I am looking forward to next years racing here (AU) Our V8 SuperCars is changing it's format from holden (GM) you probably seen the pontiac G8's that's made here in australia we get a different variant without the twin grills the holden commodore but anyway Holden versus Ford is what the format has been now for about 20yrs but they are finally going back to allowing other manufacturers to compete yay go Nissan, but they still have to be V8's I think.

eunique

iTrader: (3)

I'll look into that and order a hopefully a perfect fitting belt.
I do have extras, but the D3 is even longer.

That race should be fun to watch...yes I am familiar with the Holdens...nice looking cars.

Did some adjusting on my D3 today.
Put in 1* rear alum suspension mount, moved rear lower shock mount in to center most position, so it stays more upright and used aluminum shims, no more play. Noticed it had play with old plastic ones.
Front: toe out 3*, camber 6* (negative)
Rear: toe in 1*, camber 6* (negative)