Aw11Clown

It works, but its only till i can get my hands on the upgrade parts to replace it. Was looking at a magnet setup (think it was on hobby king) instead of the valco style. I was looking at the skyrc (TORO TS50A) esc. anyone got anything good or bad to say about them?

On other news I should have a Tamiya stadium blizter Re-re arive in a week or so for some retro off road fun.

kwadruppel

The knuckles should be upgraded together with the UWAs? I always thought it was the aluminium steering rack that required the UWAs.
Nice, i need an excuse to order something from rcmart again

kwadruppel

About stealth mounting, this is mine using these magnetic mounts from r2 hobbies, and
this bmw body from Conrad. Sortof cheap & prepainted because i was in a hurry

At the front i needed to drill an extra hole in the body posts to make them low enough. And one of the magnetholders needed 'tweaking' for the magnet to acually fit. But I'm very pleased with the end result, the magnets are strong too, i can almost pick up the car by its body.

Aw11Clown

FFS! Adjusted camber the other day on the front. Had a few minutes spare earlier so dropped it on the road out the front. pulled trigger......... burnout while makeing a weird noise from the front..... wtf! Thought it might be stuck on something. Picked it up and tested it. Front pulleys teeth are DESTROYED and destroyed the belt too. I had no issues with it for ages and all of a sudden sh$# is failing all over the place. Not sure wether to get hopups, run it RWD, or just stick it on a shelf and get a MST!

Newrcguy4

hey guys, just built my d3 with a oneway in the front and I'm having a problem with the centre belt is rubbing on the one way? and also one side has a lot of play with the driveshaft, any sugestions ?

MaruRx7

Which of the pulleys was stripped? the 13t on the spur shaft or the diff pulley? Also did is strip all of the teeth on the belt or just one area?

I am assuming it was the 13t pulley that stripped out, and the area of the belt where the belt was on that pulley. it is likely that you had something binding up in the front drivetrain. CVD pin may have come loose as previously noted in this thread by Pickled and several others. Make sure that everything turns smoothing from the diff to the wheels, and disassemble and reassemble as necessary.

MaruRx7

I am assuming you built your one-way diff with the included spacer. If so, you need to remove that spacer, that will push the diff pulley against the center belt.

Newrcguy4

I'll give that a go, thanks

Aw11Clown

Yeah 13t for the front belt. Not sure how much of the belt was gone but it wasn't usable so i cut the belt and have been driving it around rwd mode since. Not sure how or why but everything runs smoothly.

I went around 2 shops that stock 3racing stuff (other then like pinions etc) and NO ONE has any spares. I have an order queued up with RCmart, but im not sure whether to bite the bullet and get parts, or just shelve the car for a while and get a RWD MST.

MaruRx7

Tqrcracing.com is where I get all my stuff from. $100+ free shipping

Aw11Clown

Im from Australia so im better off getting from a store like rc mart if i cant get locally.

MaruRx7

Ah, sorry. I didnt realize that.

Aw11Clown

Dropped a big order last night, only for it to decline. Thinking WTF i checked my bank account. Helps if i have money I guess! Damn 1:1 scale car!

Mozflyer

Hi everyone,

Firstly thanks Eunique for your advice related to my first post
I am considering all of it

Can someone kindly help me on the following decisions?
As mentioned before, deliveries from the east to Brasil can take up to 60 days and I don't want to order the wrong goodies

1) After reading that for a complete newbie the stock CS ratio could be aggressive, I have decided to start with 1,56
I could achieve that by replacing the 22T pulley by a 16T
- Is that the best way to get 1.56?
- I have the 3Racing Aluminum Rear Bulkhead Bearing Housing Ver2 #SAKD313_PK
Will i be able to tension the belt with it?

2) I have the FOW
- I have to order the 3Racing Aluminum Center One Way Pulley Gear T13 #3RAC-3PYW_13. Correct?
- Is this the correct pulley for the FOW? 3Racing Aluminum FRONT Diff. Pulley Gear T38 #3PY38
I dont seem to find a Centre One Way 38T
Any link?

3) I have the NOVAK Drift Spec Sensored Brushless System 13,5T COMBO
- Which pinion must i get for the 1.56 CS?
(To have a variety, i intend to order the Yeah Racing Pinion Gear Super Hard Combo set (48P 15T-20T 6pcs #MG-48015-020) from RCMart)
For this set of pinions the site does not indicate their diameter
Will they fit the Novak motor shaft which is 1/8"?

4) When one day i change the CS back to the stock 2.14, will i need to fit a different pinion?

I will be grateful for your help and advice

Thanks in advance
Carlos

MaruRx7

I replaced my 22T with an 18T and the rear belt was very loose, i had to adjust the rear belt tensioner all of the way up, but my rear spool is in the stock adjustment location. I would assume that a 16T would make it extremely loose.
To reduce the overdrive(CS) to the rear wheels, i reduced my 22T to 18T and increased my 13T to 15T. This calculates to 1.52 CS
all other pulleys are still stock size.


You do not need to order a 13T pulley gear unless your stock one is damaged.
3RAC-3PY/13

The 38T pulley is the correct stock size pulley for the FOW, but you do not need an alloy pulley unless your stock plastic 38T pulley is damaged.
3RAC-3PY/38

Center pulleys range from 13T to 29T
Diff/FOW/Spool pulleys range from 30T to 45T

The Pinion/Spur gears do not affect the ratio for CS, only Final Drive ratio(FDR) of getting power from the motor into the drivetrain.
As far as the motor shaft diameter, i believe most of the motor shafts are the same, but i could be incorrect.

Not necessarily. Changing the FDR primarily changes your max speed from motor into the rest of the drivetrain.