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3 Racing Sakura D3 CS Drift

Old 05-27-2013, 09:47 PM
  #1861  
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The Charger and the S14 both look SICK! Awesome.

Originally Posted by Bigwerm View Post
I cant seem to adjust the center belt.... Seems there is no adjustment and belt is way to long..... Does any one eles have this problem...????? In the center of the belt i added another belt to put some tension but it needs more.....
Yeah, the D3 is far from perfect and the slack-ridden big belt is a known issue. Most of us have added or fabricated a bearing-based tensioner. The 3Racing aluminum rear side piece kit has a tensioner included with it.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:02 PM
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[QUOTE=Rodarbal;12197166]The Charger and the S14 both look SICK! Awesome.



Yeah, the D3 is far from perfect and the slack-ridden big belt is a known issue. Most of us have added or fabricated a bearing-based tensioner. The 3Racing aluminum rear side piece kit has a tensioner included with it.



My buddy bought it then brought it to me cuz he said he couldnt get the center belt tight..... So i used the tensioner it came with and fabed up pully and added it to the center....

Ok i thought his kit came messed up so if its a known issuse then i understand now.... So after people fabing up the center pully tensioner have they had any othet problrms with it...????
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:08 PM
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With the tensioner I fabbed up and a FOW I haven't had any belt issues.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:13 PM
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Ok nice... what suspention set up is best for this car...... I run a tc5 so that set up is alot differnt on a sakura lol
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:25 PM
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Also if some one cant do the center pully mod.. have ppl replaced the center belt with a shorter belt..???? And if they have off what car was it...???
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:36 AM
  #1866  
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Simple fix for the loose belt is to place a .5mm shim under the rear pulley mount. This tilts the whole assembly back and places more tension on the belt. Front springs are way too soft. I'm running AE copper springs in the front and stock ones in the rear. 50wt in the front 40 wt in the rear.
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:00 AM
  #1867  
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Originally Posted by Bigwerm View Post
Also if some one cant do the center pully mod.. have ppl replaced the center belt with a shorter belt..???? And if they have off what car was it...???
Last page I uploaded a pic of my D3 with a 516 belt from a sakura XI. It is tight at the moment but I think it will slacken off a bit. I had a zero tensioner in the middle and didn't take out enough slack as it was skipping teeth under hard throttle.

I will try the shim mod under the rear pulley and see how that works.

All in all the 516 seems to do the job.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by pettyeagles View Post
Simple fix for the loose belt is to place a .5mm shim under the rear pulley mount. This tilts the whole assembly back and places more tension on the belt. Front springs are way too soft. I'm running AE copper springs in the front and stock ones in the rear. 50wt in the front 40 wt in the rear.
When u do that how much adjustment do u get...????? Alot or a little...???

Nice set up what shock positions are u running and camber... ?????
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by slyts6 View Post
Last page I uploaded a pic of my D3 with a 516 belt from a sakura XI. It is tight at the moment but I think it will slacken off a bit. I had a zero tensioner in the middle and didn't take out enough slack as it was skipping teeth under hard throttle.

I will try the shim mod under the rear pulley and see how that works.

All in all the 516 seems to do the job.
Yeah am have to get one of those belts and put a few shims to adjust it.... Am just wondering whos idea was it to put an xxxxxL belt in the dam kit lol... They made a awsome drift car vut idk how they failed on the center belt lol
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:12 AM
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Soooooo i tryed them shims and i was not able to het enough adjustment on the long stock belt...... So i tryed a old tc5 front belt and it worked perfect.... no adjusting required at all...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ted-Front-Belt
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:20 PM
  #1871  
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Tamiya BRZ body. Diffuser won't fit underneath it and the bumper will need a little trimming, but the shock towers aren't an issue unless you want the body to sit really, really low.
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:57 PM
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Has anyone had any luck running a battery in the longitude direction? I've just bought the ssg main chassis and for the life of me I cannot see this thing working. The servo doesn't fit in the original position. The battery won't go in unless you build the car around the battery and then charge it while its in the car. The only way I can see it remotely working is by using a shorty pack or just running transverse. It's just rediculus.
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:20 AM
  #1873  
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Originally Posted by slyts6 View Post
Has anyone had any luck running a battery in the longitude direction? I've just bought the ssg main chassis and for the life of me I cannot see this thing working. The servo doesn't fit in the original position. The battery won't go in unless you build the car around the battery and then charge it while its in the car. The only way I can see it remotely working is by using a shorty pack or just running transverse. It's just rediculus.
Yep, I came to the exact same realization when I upgraded my chassis. The transverse kit really should have been included with the chassis kit. But, just like virtually all of the other D3 upgrades, some other 'upgrade' is needed to fully utilize. I know longitudinal can be done and I remember seeing pictures somewhere. IIRC, it required a low-profile servo and was pretty much a charge-in-place situation.

I ended up buying the regular transverse kit to maintain the balance of my setup. I couldn't image it being more front-heavy. If someone was looking to bring the weight closer to center, the shorty transverse kit seems like it would be a good compromise.

Despite the nuisance of the additional upgrade, I'm much happier with the SSG chassis. The accuracy is superb and it provides a much more consistent platform upon which to tune. Likewise with the SSG shock towers. They are orders of magnitude stiffer than the stock plastic, and the holes are clearance drilled, making damper position changes a breeze. If you plan to spend any time working on your car, these upgrades in particular, eliminate a lot of the frustration.
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Caseymacgyver View Post
Yep, I came to the exact same realization when I upgraded my chassis. The transverse kit really should have been included with the chassis kit. But, just like virtually all of the other D3 upgrades, some other 'upgrade' is needed to fully utilize. I know longitudinal can be done and I remember seeing pictures somewhere. IIRC, it required a low-profile servo and was pretty much a charge-in-place situation.

I ended up buying the regular transverse kit to maintain the balance of my setup. I couldn't image it being more front-heavy. If someone was looking to bring the weight closer to center, the shorty transverse kit seems like it would be a good compromise.

Despite the nuisance of the additional upgrade, I'm much happier with the SSG chassis. The accuracy is superb and it provides a much more consistent platform upon which to tune. Likewise with the SSG shock towers. They are orders of magnitude stiffer than the stock plastic, and the holes are clearance drilled, making damper position changes a breeze. If you plan to spend any time working on your car, these upgrades in particular, eliminate a lot of the frustration.

I have the ssg lower deck and shock towers.. Just waiting for the upper and transverse kit to arrive at my LHS.

I showed my LHS the kit once it was all assembled (they hadn't seen a d3 hopped up yet) and they were stumped when I explained what was going on.

I've managed to make a small battery holder that mounts to the chassis with 2 screws and nilocks so I've kinda sorted out how to remove the battery fairly easy. I'm still not happy that I've had to remove the centre post to do it as I'm worried it will make the chassis too flexy.

I don't know if its lack of experience on my part, but I'm finding that I cannot transition the car from one direction to another without It A: completely spinning around after the first drift or B: the front end completely understeers and I just end up going straight after a drift with the wheels pointing in the direction I want to go. I can't seem to find a happy medium :S

I have stock springs front and rear, 50wt oil front and 30wt oils rear. Standard CS pulleys.

Any info would be a great help!

Last edited by slyts6; 05-29-2013 at 07:07 PM.
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:21 PM
  #1875  
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Originally Posted by slyts6 View Post
I have the ssg lower deck and shock towers.. Just waiting for the upper and transverse kit to arrive at ...

I don't know if its lack of experience on my part, but I'm finding that I cannot transition the car from one direction to another without It A: completely spinning around after the first drift or B: the front end completely understeers and I just end up going straight after a drift with the wheels pointing in the direction I want to go. I can't seem to find a happy medium :S

I have stock springs front and rear, 50wt oil front and 30wt oils rear. Standard CS pulleys.

Any info would be a great help!
I am running 35wt oil all around, 3racing D3 purple and blue springs for rear and front with great success...(thanks to Pickled for testing that out)
Make sure you have a fast servo because you need fast to catch it in transitions.

On that note...a good driver (in my book) at my LHS suggested something different from the norm soft front stiff rear for front motor CS drift setup...he had me try to switch around stiff front and soft rear and remove the added weight in the rear (rear diffuser)...and when I tried that, my D3 had the rear trailing the front in a nicer drift....so far I am liking that setup. I never even thought that the rear diffuser would make that difference since it was supposed to be included in the stock setup.

Let me know if anyone's tries this setup out and see how they like it.
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