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Old 02-27-2005, 11:25 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by S-T-R-l-K-E-R
you guys quoted top of the line chargers of its only fair to quote top of the line engines.
No top of the line .12 engine will be $600. If you are going to quote top of the line stuff, then try $80 a pack Fusion batts, and 5 packs of that. And bring out the VISA!!

6 gallons of fuel, man I can run an entire summer season, plus regional, and probably another big race like the Paris race. You really don't need tha many gallon to race a season.

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Old 02-27-2005, 11:30 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by litespeed-dom


6 gallons of fuel, man I can run an entire summer season, plus regional, and probably another big race like the Paris race. You really don't need tha many gallon to race a season.

Dom
exactly thats why i said "for a whole year"
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Old 02-27-2005, 11:39 PM   #33
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Originally posted by S-T-R-l-K-E-R
exactly thats why i said "for a whole year"

I thought you said we are talking about running regionals here, don't need 6 gallons to run a regionals. What you do need to be competative running a regionals is more than 5 packs of $60 packs and at least 2 motors.

Here are more realistic numbers to run at regionals (in specifically)

ELECTRIC:
car: 350
esc:150
battery: $300 (5 packs)
motor: $100 (2 motors)
charger:$300 (2 chargers, come on now, who still has only 1 charger these days if you are serious)

Total:$1200

NITRO:
chassis and motor: $700
extra servo: 70
fuel:$50 (2 gallons)
rx battery: 30
charger: 150
starterbox:100
accessories: $100

Total: $1170

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Old 02-28-2005, 12:11 AM   #34
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chassis and motor for $700

i dont think an average motor would be enough at the regional level.
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Old 02-28-2005, 12:18 AM   #35
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I had to put this in here. Have a look at this.

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=4552

More then enough to be competitive.
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Old 02-28-2005, 12:28 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally posted by S-T-R-l-K-E-R
chassis and motor for $700

i dont think an average motor would be enough at the regional level.
I don't know if you know what an average motor costs and how much a hot rod motor costs. Remember for ROAR regionals, you have to run a 4-ports motor which a few of these high price hot rod motors you are thinking about are outlawed.


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Old 02-28-2005, 12:42 AM   #37
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it all boils down to which car you really like......

electric is super smooth and precise and can turn corners at blinding speeds.

gas......its fast and realistic with the sound of the engine and the smell of nitro......

both are expensive. both will drive you crazy. both will give you a burn-out if you do not pace yourself well with your expense and all.

generally though, at start-up, running electric is more expensive than gas becausew of the chargers, batts, battery trays etc.....but in the long run they even out because tires wear out fast in gas powered cars and nitro fuel is not cheap........
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Old 02-28-2005, 12:45 AM   #38
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So where are we?
Basically We are fighting over a couple of hundred bucks?
To me, once you cross into the $Grand$ area, a couple of hundred bucks is the same to me.
So I thought electric was more, but it is basically the same thing.
Wow, it makes the great debate even tougher.
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Old 02-28-2005, 12:59 AM   #39
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Wow it looks like they're about neck to neck. Another factor you may want to add in this equation is the cleaning part. You will get dirty and gooey after running your nitro. After each run or race, you'll have to clean all the dirt and grime combined with the oil from the nitro. Electric is much cleaner. After each race, you'll want to take apart the electric motor and clean it. If you're a neat freak then electric but if you're a grease monkey then nitro. Just my opinon.
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Old 02-28-2005, 01:01 AM   #40
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To me, 1/8th driving actually needs to be more precision, because if you overshoot, it's not as easy to save it as electric. Where our club is, we run 1/8th and down to electric novice at the same time, so our track isn't like it's 20ft lane that you have room to spare, we make a convertible track, but the lane isn't wide at all, so it requires more precision then if I would run my EP TC on the same track.

Don't get me wrong, I like driving EP cars, but I LOVE to be able to drive in the Main for 30 mins straight, so I have to worry about setup a car to anticipate handling changes when tires wear down 15 or 20 mins into the main, and fuel consumption.... do I got 5 mins or do I push 6 mins to save one fuel stop..... that's what makes gas racing fun.

Another thing I always think is.... heck I don't drive an electric powered car to work every day.

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Old 02-28-2005, 01:02 AM   #41
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scooby,

yep, theres a small difference......but the dynamics in maintaning the hobby for gp and ep is different.

for gp, you shell out money gradually....you buy tires and gas and spare parts for the car.....unless you break your engine, you will not be shelling out 500 bucks right away.

in electric.....there comes a time when your batts will dump out on you and you need to purchase quite a number of packs....you shell out a lot right away but you will be competitive with what you have for a long time as long as you take care of the batts.... motors and tires also wear out.....

same story really,.......both are expensive!

by the way, with the coming of brushless systems into mainstream rc, ep will definitely become cheaper to run. no more fussy brushes!!!
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Old 02-28-2005, 01:05 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
Wow it looks like they're about neck to neck. Another factor you may want to add in this equation is the cleaning part. You will get dirty and gooey after running your nitro. After each run or race, you'll have to clean all the dirt and grime combined with the oil from the nitro. Electric is much cleaner. After each race, you'll want to take apart the electric motor and clean it. If you're a neat freak then electric but if you're a grease monkey then nitro. Just my opinon.
Very good point, it does get messy and if your PB overfilled your tank, it's pretty much a mess after your mains. And to me, that's part of the package deal. Just like truing motors, changing brushes, discharging/traying/charging batteries, it's so time consuming. Man, I just want to run the damn car.

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Old 02-28-2005, 01:13 AM   #43
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Yes it's great time to get into electric but I have to agree with DOM. GP can be driven for longer times with pit stops. Now that provides more variables you'll have deal with which is exciting racing. Also the sound of motors screaming and the sound of clutches engaging at certain rpms makes Nitro an awesome spectacle to watch. Electric is more portable since you can race in or outdoors.
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Old 02-28-2005, 01:47 AM   #44
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Default Re: My Great TC EP vs Nitro Debate

Quote:
Originally posted by scoobydo
**EDIT**

Ok, I'll pose a simpler Question:
T1FK05 or NTC3 Factory Kit?
I need a new kit1, which would you go with?

Ok scooby now let us pose a question to you.


What do you like?


There are endless point's of view. Once you fall into the trap of racing rc cars and can always fund the expense then you will never get out of it. You will always do it in some form or another.

Again what reasons have you come up with?
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Old 02-28-2005, 04:20 AM   #45
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Default it depends

it also depends on the race level that you want to race at too
just say Stock class medium level and gas class able to get into b mains

ELETRIC
car- 200 to 350 (xray T1r are 200 veryy good car)
batts - 50 each @4 =$200
charger- 150 to 300 ( cdc or pulsar)
motors- 40 each @ 2 =$80
esc- 150
radio 160-300( jr or futaba)
bodys, tires= $20 body and $30 tires
other things to get you going $100


GAS
Car -$400-500 (710, v one rrr)
motor- $200-350( nova or any)
starter box- $100
bodys, tires =$20 body and $30 tires
fuel, glow plugs and igniters,air fliters,after run oil, =$50-150
charger for starter box and rx battery =$150
radio $160-300
pipe=$50-100
other things to get you going $100

So take in mind this is for a person that its just starting Everything brand new

ELETRIC =$1090 to $1530
GAS=$1260 to $1800
im not saying that everything is cheap buts its a expensive hobby
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