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Old 03-03-2005, 10:32 PM   #31
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The reason your CA glue turned white :
Plhorecent (spelling?) you know those long white light bulbs. affect the curing of the glue. If you just use standard iridecent, the pear shapped bulbs you wont have any problems.
Shane us racers shure could use spellcheck
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Old 03-04-2005, 12:10 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by pookat
That's one of the most sensible posts i've ever read on a forum. These are KITS that require time and patience to get right.
None of my cars are perfect I admit, but I don't moan about the manufacture for a problem I could have sorted.
Thanks for the compliment!

Really though...these kids don't know how easy they've got it these days.

Damn...back in my day an R/C car came in a plastic bag and all it was was a block of plastic with some springs. The instructions told you how to whittle the thing into a "remotly operated velocipede" and the tuning guide was called "preambulation precepts!"
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Old 03-04-2005, 05:39 AM   #33
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Lightbulb instructions please

if you go to calandra's website they have detailed instructions and pictures (for those of use to lazy to read). Look in the setup area.
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Old 03-04-2005, 05:45 AM   #34
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Default Re: Better way...

Quote:
Originally posted by Lebatek
Wet sand the edges under water, dry, then apply a thin, fast drying CA with a Q-Tip carefully to the edge. It comes out super smooth and nice looking with no sanding of the glued edge.

q-tips work too but stayaway from the fumes as the ca will eat the cotton for a bit and it stings like a motha if you get that in your eye
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:28 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally posted by greencactus3
do you mean as a dpuble decker? i would try bolting them together
Ya, I mean like double decker. I thought it's better the glue them together? Maybe sand the contact first make it has more traction, than apply CA between them?
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:50 AM   #36
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Is there anything else people use to seal chassis? I have a CA glue sensitivity so using it can be tricky.
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:57 AM   #37
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I have used slow curing epoxy on some small parts and it worked well. Was a little harder to apply the thick stuff but it turned out nice.
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:04 AM   #38
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There are a few different companies selling CA with brush on applicators. Krazy Glue has one now and there is one from bondini and you could always use a good nail hardener.

I prefer brush on applicators because it allows me to apply the exact amount needed.

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Old 03-04-2005, 09:16 AM   #39
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Well Yokomo at least helps a little by giving you battery slot gromets. on there new car...Hope other follow suit.
http://www.yokomousa.com/kits/mr4tc_..._TRAYS_600.jpg
They will also have different ones to be able to fit all the different cells out especially the new 3700's cause they are bigger than the 3300 by a bunch....
Thanks Yokomo good looking out for us.
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Old 03-04-2005, 10:33 AM   #40
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Quote:
[ whittle the thing into a "remotly operated velocipede" and the tuning guide was called "preambulation precepts!" [/B]


Yea, I think I had one of those kits too...
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Old 03-04-2005, 11:06 AM   #41
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I think that kit was called the rc10 (original Car) good god remember how long it could take to get the a-arms and blocks to fix smooth. glad nylons gone!
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Old 03-06-2005, 04:57 PM   #42
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I have followed instructions....
CA then sandpaper, CA ... but now in some points CA is not on the edge only but has gone a little on the other side (big surface)......
I noticed that the nail polish remover has some kind of oil and other womens' stuff that are good for girls' nail.
I will try to use some pure acetone!
It will take time to make it ready but I like it so much....
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Old 03-10-2005, 08:37 AM   #43
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Anyone use Krazy Glue on thier edges? does it really matter what kind of CA you use?
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Old 03-10-2005, 09:11 AM   #44
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If you get CA on the "wrong" side, Great Planes has a great debonder, #6039
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Old 03-10-2005, 11:50 AM   #45
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If you use acetone?
I think is ok.
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