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Old 01-18-2006, 08:18 PM   #121
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Thanks Hyper1. Is there anyone else that would like to shed some light on this?
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Old 01-18-2006, 09:22 PM   #122
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Hyper1, How can you tell a eff. # and power # at those 2 voltage#s or any??
Thanks rogtsaamokin
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Old 01-18-2006, 09:30 PM   #123
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The lower the amp draw the better the eff,and the higher the amp draw the more power,I know it's not exactly perfect or proper, technically but it's just kinda the way I have it set up and named for different things.I'm always looking and open for better ways though.
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Old 01-19-2006, 11:20 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2CARTEAM
Dave
I enjoyed your write up and thank you for taking time to go through this. The pulse setting you are are using is this for stock motors? And if so do you recommend that same settings for 19T and Mod motors?
When dynoing a motor to establish a base line should the 4 or 6 cells mode be used.
I look forward to your reply.

Yes i use this for both stock and 19T motors. You can use both the 4 and 6 cell settings... but generally speaking, the less voltage, the more consistent the numbers will be when you test run more than once or twice. Brush bounce gets worse with higher RPMS, you can imagine what that will do do the results. More voltage ALSO does the comm/brushes more damage during testing. It is more important to stick to your regimen, and be "scientific" about it... repeating the same test procedure each time... so that your results are accurate. This even includes the time between your motor being cleaned with motor spray to the time its run on the MM. Motor spray will super cool the magnets and make that first run on the MM really good... giving you a "false" set of numbers. Give it some time between a cleaner flush and a run on the MM, so that the motor can comes to ambient temperature. As far as mod motors are concerned, i dont break them in anymore. I am sure there are people out there that do it but, in a world of one run brushes, and 1.22AV cells, i just dont see the point. That is my opinion though, test and see for yourself. I do however dyno mods, but mainly for efficiency and timing/gearing purposes. Yes breaking in the brush will increase efficiency, but the amp draw is so much higher in mod that it is usually not as great a percentage or as important as it is in stock or 19T. I know that sounds backwards, but it is what i have found. Incidentally, after a few pulls on the dyno, the brushes are close to being seated anyways. The sad thing is the comm needs to be fresh cut everytime it is run, and the brushes need to be in new/better condition for a strong/consistent modified. The new generation of brushes have seemed to change these rules for modified. Or at least the sales pitches would like to have you believe that. But every race, the big boys are swappin motors and having them rebuilt every run. I guess that just depends on your level of commitment to competition.


For you guys asking how to equate amp or volt numbers to something meaningful, make a chart. AMPS on the left side going up... and VOLTS going across the bottom of the page. You can make one really easy and save it in MS WORD. Run two different motors on the MM, writing the numbers down on a sticky note pad and sticking the results to each motor. Then print one of your charts for each motor. Then plot the numbers on the chart... using dots to represent each result the MM gives you. You can then connect the dots, giving you two "curves" to compare each motor too. You dont have to do this every time, but if you have a motor that really screams at the track, then run it on the MM BEFORE the rebuild, and plot it out on the graph as a reference point for what you motors SHOULD be. Remember, write down your rollout/gearing in the corner of that graph... its important to relate gearing to a motor/track layout. That same motor with a tooth added can seem like its crap, even though the MM will give you similar readings. This will help you to relate track size, gearing and motor power all on one chart. If you do decide to print each one for each motor, then you could save the best one from a particular race and add it your car setup sheet as a supplement for going back to that track. You wont waste a few runs on the track trying to find a gear or spending time asking someone for help, you already have the info in front of you, and your first pack on the track can can be about the layout, not the gearing/motor. This is basically what a dyno does for you, it offers all of this information, but at a higher cost. The MM can do this for you with just a little bit more effort. Just remember to be consistent with your testing procedures and youll be well on your way to spending less time doing motor work looking for power, and more time turning laps. Youll eventually learn what brush/spring combos work best 90% of the time, and youll be able to save time in your motor prep. Anyways, good luck to you guys, and i hope this helps you at least a little bit.



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Old 12-14-2006, 08:20 AM   #125
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Unhappy need help :-)

I was rebuilding few motors just now and hooked one up to mm motormaster motor-run feature. Got "hook up motor" error message Thought it was my rebuilding error but hooking up all other motors (mods or stocks) gave out the same message

Care to help?
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Old 12-14-2006, 11:03 AM   #126
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hi mine done this and i found that it was excess solder on the hoods. but the second time it happend it wasnt excess solder and i had to send the unit back.it could also be a sticky brush try and pull your brush out a little and let it go this should eliminate that problem but if it still comes up with the same message you may have to send it back. hope this helps stephen
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Old 12-14-2006, 08:52 PM   #127
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thanks stephen, ima send it in to lhs
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Old 03-26-2007, 03:57 PM   #128
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Just bought the New Andy Moore Motor Master, could someone tell me do they come with a RPM bushing or is that seperate?
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Old 03-26-2007, 04:14 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B
Just bought the New Andy Moore Motor Master, could someone tell me do they come with a RPM bushing or is that seperate?

YES the come with a rpm bushing
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Old 03-26-2007, 05:07 PM   #130
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Thanks
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Old 09-11-2007, 03:40 AM   #131
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anybody tested a 23turn motor? what are your best numbers?

thanks

Last edited by pearl; 09-15-2007 at 03:38 AM.
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Old 09-15-2007, 01:52 AM   #132
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hi just wondering how does the new mm motor master v3.2 works with mini z motors? don they need a support to hold the motor? does the marc's edition do support mini z ?
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Old 09-25-2007, 08:01 PM   #133
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bump!
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Old 10-01-2007, 10:29 AM   #134
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does it worth to buy one of these units?
Is that working accurately and gives you which infos?
what are the benefits?
Many thanx in advanced...
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Old 10-01-2007, 11:32 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
does it worth to buy one of these units?
Is that working accurately and gives you which infos?
what are the benefits?
Many thanx in advanced...
Yes. Yes and Yes

I've been using mine now for over 12 months and a lot of people have asked me to re-build their motors cause the reakon the one's i do run ok.

Before I had this machine I would cut and re-build a motor and use an Ice charger at 2v to check amp draw. Sometimes what would appear to be a good job would be shit on the track.

Now if I buy a new motor or do anything to an old one I always use the MM and jot the figures down in a note book.
I now know which are my best motors (save for big events) and which are my average motors, run at club days.

Go for it. My only advice, is you need to be methodical in your procedure and keep a motor book to build up data and understanding
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