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Old 12-23-2005, 09:12 AM   #106
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I check the RPM once on one of my motor and I guessed I did not hold the motor properly and the bushing flew into the case. I had to open in to get it back out.
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Old 12-23-2005, 09:14 AM   #107
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YEP! been there to.
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Old 12-23-2005, 09:57 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trf_racer
I just got the CTX-M 3.0 recently and I was wondering if you stuck the motor into the rubber o-ring when doing RPM checking.
Yes, you do have to push the motor in so the bearing housing on the can is in the rubber grommet. It's a snug fit and helps to keep the motor stable, and stops the rpm bushing from hitting anything inside!

The Motor Mate (stand for the motor) is a great option and makes motor checking hands-free.
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Old 12-23-2005, 10:29 AM   #109
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The Stand is a good option but you still have to hold the motor,they really need to come up with a better option.
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Old 12-23-2005, 10:58 AM   #110
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I just tried the RPM checking without the Motor Mate. This time nothing bad happened. I think they should have the RPM checking outside the case so you won't damage anything inside.
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Old 12-23-2005, 03:23 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
The F-brush hasnt been very consistent in compound (not that all brushes are super consistent... there are variations in all batches... but this seemed worse in the F-brush)... i had a batch that scorched comms... so i shied away from them after that.


- DaveW
hey Dave.. you probably had version 2 and 3 of the F-brush. Version 1 was the best. Eric Anderson has that version now and it hasnt changed. Hit him up he'll be able to help you out more.

i remember that version of the F-brush. it sucked. but EA fixed the problem and its back to the original compound.
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Old 12-23-2005, 06:32 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XingXing
what do you do with the GUM? i dont understand..


also i bought my MM second hand, when does the fans operate? i have never been able to get them to run, not sure if they are faulty...
Okay..

I attach one more picture..

You can keep the `rpm check bushing` easily and safely..


Sorry for my poor english.


from south Korea,

Son In-Kwon.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Much More Racing - Motor Master-bushing2.jpg  

Last edited by Son In-Kwon; 12-23-2005 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 12-24-2005, 01:07 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hebiki
hey Dave.. you probably had version 2 and 3 of the F-brush. Version 1 was the best. Eric Anderson has that version now and it hasnt changed. Hit him up he'll be able to help you out more.

i remember that version of the F-brush. it sucked. but EA fixed the problem and its back to the original compound.

I heard it went through a bit of changes at that time... so many people said they loved the brush... and when i got it i couldnt understand WHY. Still as of late i hear mixed reviews... does that mean EA is the only company with that version of the brush? Thanks for the heads up... ill pick up some more of them to see how they are!

Son In-Kwon: Dont worry about your english... thanks for sharing your tips with us!

I would be a bit ticked if i had an RPM bushing pop off in the MM during a test! My bushing pressed on fairly tight... is that the same with everyone elses? I think i will pick up a motor stand... even though i will still hold onto the motor to make sure it doesnt twist when its being tested... at least it will be at the proper angle. If you guys have the reflective tape come off of your bushing... you can get a replacement from Much More, but there is an easy fix if the bushing isnt damaged. You can go to your local Walmart, hit the automotive section and pick up some 3M adhesive reflective foil tape. It looks to be the same as what is on the bushing. Apply the foil tape to the slick side of some wax paper, cut it to the proper size with a sharp pair of scissors, and the small pieces will peel off the wax paper like a sticker sheet. Clean the bushing with motor spray, apply each piece and be sure they are 180 degrees apart of each other. The width of the tape is important... it needs to be similar to the previous bushing if you want to keep your readings as consistent as possible.

- DaveW
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Old 12-25-2005, 02:17 PM   #114
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hi, i notice on son in kwons's pics his motor master has the words "Max 25Amps" written on the right hand side...

my motor master doenst say this..... when i start up my motor master it says Version 3.0/C

is that the current version?

thanks
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Old 12-25-2005, 08:17 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW

Son In-Kwon: Dont worry about your english... thanks for sharing your tips with us!

- DaveW
Hi, Dave.

I am encouraged by you

And You have to keep horizontality during rpm checking.

If you incline your motor during rpm checking,

MM`s rpm sensors is borken by rpm check bushing.

The best way is using the MotorMate.


from south Korea,

Son In-Kwon.
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Old 01-04-2006, 03:05 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
Monster Motor: 25560RPM, 10.5A - 4cell mode. I use the 4cell mode, it is closer by comparison to my Fantom Dyno test volts/results. You can use the amp/volt steps to judge a "powerband" for that motor. Apm draw alone cannot be used to decide if a motor is crap/awesome, as mentioned earlier. Generally speaking, anything under 7A will need help... and so will anything over 12A. You must keep in mind what kind of voltage your batteries are putting out, to make amp draw relevant to the equation. If you are running 1.213 per cell IB's... you just might cook a 12A+ motor. If your batteries dont have that kinda juice... then you need a "hotter" motor to compensate. Reedy 767's work well with high voltage batteries and some of the heavier spring rates, for about two runs. They lack a bit of the RPM that Trinity 4499, or similar brush combos give, but they have that "pop" in cooler temperatures. Trinity 4499, or a combo of 4505+cavity/4504-full face will be a bit more resistant to higher output packs... and overgearing... giving you alot more runs by comparison. The F-brush hasnt been very consistent in compound (not that all brushes are super consistent... there are variations in all batches... but this seemed worse in the F-brush)... i had a batch that scorched comms... so i shied away from them after that. For break-in, pulse is the way to go. 1.5vlo/3.0vhi - 1 on the variation speed, 5 minutes on the time, and 1 minute break between 2 cycles for a total of 10 minutes. If you want to avoid excessive wear on the comm from the long runtime... break in new brushes on the old uncut comm for the first 5 minutes. Since the older (rougher) comm will wear the new brushes faster, the last 5 minutes on the fresh trued comm will be less abrasive, doing less damage. I also use a few drops of Zubak "Smurf Pee"... the blue stuff, on the comm, at the start of each cycle. A good flush with motor spray, let it dry and relube the bushings with synthetic oil and youre ready to roll. I have to say i am thoroughly impressed with this machine. Once you get a good baseline set for your motors as per your dyno (Fantom/CE)... the motors can be run on the MM, and give you good baseline numbers for that machine... then you will be able to rebuild your motors at the track and run them on the MM to be sure they havent fallen off... or have no need to either take your dyno to a race, or feel unsure if what you did to the motor helped OR hurt you. By the way... Arun at Nexus is tha' man. I know him personally... and knowing him, if you have ANY questions... he is definitely the man to talk to about MM products. Thanks for all your help!!



- DaveW
Dave
I enjoyed your write up and thank you for taking time to go through this. The pulse setting you are are using is this for stock motors? And if so do you recommend that same settings for 19T and Mod motors?
When dynoing a motor to establish a base line should the 4 or 6 cells mode be used.
I look forward to your reply.
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Old 01-17-2006, 10:06 PM   #117
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Default What do the numbers mean?

Hello, I was wondering if someone can walk me through the numbers on the MM. CTX Test mode.

I recently ran my MM in CTX Test 6cell mode. It was on a EA Motorsports Monster stock motor.

It came up with the following numbers ~

Peak Amp: 8.86, Max RPM: 33690

5.8, 7.3, 6.7, 6.5, 6.4, 6.0

With a 6 Step Ave Amp of 6.43.

I appoligize, I am an absolute newb. I understand the Max RPM, but dont know if that is a good number. Should I be seeing more?

The peak amp, individual amps and the 6 step ave amp I really do not understand. Could someone please explain what the numbers are? Whsat they mean? And what I should be looking for.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-17-2006, 11:42 PM   #118
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Fervidsea,

What you have to do is, first do what is called get your baseline #'s,and start a log then from there you can tell if your getting better #'s and also you need to look at your on track performance IE: lap times,this will ultimately tell you what your motors are doing.One of the biggest things is keeping track of the data your gathering over time,this is really where you'll learn what's going on with one motor or another.I keep a log book just for motors and all relevant data,it's getting pretty big now I started it about a year or so ago but I can go back and pick out a fast motor when I need to.The first page is a detailed instruction of my test parameters and procedures and I just went from there,always starting with getting baseline #'s for each motor.
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:42 PM   #119
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I understand the collecting data part, of which I have started. I quess it just that I write the numbers down look at the other numbers and wow I have no idea what they mean. If the peak amps, are good, bad or indifferent or even what is the peak amps telling me. It is just hard looking at the numbers and not having an idea of what it is telling me.
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:03 PM   #120
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OK, I will try to explain it best I can.

The peak amp # tells you how many amps your motor used at start up,so far I haven't found a real use for this # so I don't pay it much attention.The MAX RPM's # tells you how many rpm's you motor was at when it reached 7.2 volts or six cell battery voltage,you can use this # for help with your gearing.The six step amp #'s tell you the amps drawn at the six different preset test voltages,1.2,2.4,3.6,4.8,6.0,and 7.2,and then it gives you the avg for the whole test,which is what I use a lot because I run stock oval and I'm wide open all the time and my motors don't see a lot of flucuation,and my batteries don't fall off very much from beginning to end unlike TC guys that are on and off the throttle a lot.I also look at the 3.6 and 4.8 #'s (I test in 4 cell mode) for an efficiency and power indicator.Hope this helps,it's just my way,by no means the only way.I'd be interested in seeing how others are using theirs.
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