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Old 09-06-2005, 09:40 AM   #91
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is the first version and latest version differ by alot?
cause i'm a budget racer...and tinkin of gettin the v1.0
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Old 09-06-2005, 10:24 AM   #92
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I think there is a big difference from the very first version to the latest.
Beside the additional function the newer versions also can handle higher currents. In the beginning there was a max. current of 12amps and everything based on the 3.0c can handle 20 amps.
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Old 09-09-2005, 04:08 PM   #93
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Hey guys i just got a motor master and i think its awsome

but i got a question


it says 3.0 on the front and its silver, so what is the diffrence bettween the black 3.0v?
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Old 09-14-2005, 04:53 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex_kipper
Hey guys i just got a motor master and i think its awsome

but i got a question


it says 3.0 on the front and its silver, so what is the diffrence bettween the black 3.0v?
Hmm...haven't seen that one before. You can be sure you have the latest version if you have the "quick test" function (in addition to the CTX test and other functions) and white back light.
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Old 09-14-2005, 05:45 PM   #95
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it has both of those!! so that means im up to date!
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Old 11-29-2005, 02:58 PM   #96
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Ive read what sort of readouts your getting from your stock motors and was wandering what readings you are getting for 1) the p2k2 and the springs, brushes used and also what sort of readings you are getting out of your 19t motors. cheers
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Old 11-29-2005, 03:26 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Can you explain this Korey?
Well amp draw can be changed by ALOT of things. An electric motor will draw more amps if there is any sort of binding in the motor, if you're using super heavy springs, or if you're brush hoods arent aligned correctly. If everything checks out and you have one motor that draw more amps than the other, you can make a "guess" that the motor drawing mroe amps will be faster. I've had some motors that draw 6 amps, 10 amps, 14 amps, and anywhere inbetween and they are still wicked fast. So its not entirely accurate on how the motor performs.

I usually use the amp draw to determine if there are any problems in my motors. Generally if they are drawing stupid amps then something is a little weird. I can shove super glue in the bushings and watch my motor max out my power supply and the motor master if I really wanted too. But that just doesnt seem like the way to make a fast motor if you know what I mean.

My average is anywhere from 5-10 amps. You can also monitor it to make sure your brushes are fully seated. Usually during break in the amp draw is really erratic and jumps around alot. When the brushes are seated it should stay a little more constant. Hope this helps a little bit. The motor Master is a pretty cool trackside reference tool. Awesome for running your lathes too.

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Old 11-29-2005, 04:23 PM   #98
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hi does this motor master come in variose colors? if i get black looks too much like my ctx-c, and hard to distinguish.

also is this "dyno" similar to to the APS 3 in 1 dyno?

Last edited by Doomah; 11-29-2005 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 12-04-2005, 03:06 AM   #99
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Monster Motor: 25560RPM, 10.5A - 4cell mode. I use the 4cell mode, it is closer by comparison to my Fantom Dyno test volts/results. You can use the amp/volt steps to judge a "powerband" for that motor. Apm draw alone cannot be used to decide if a motor is crap/awesome, as mentioned earlier. Generally speaking, anything under 7A will need help... and so will anything over 12A. You must keep in mind what kind of voltage your batteries are putting out, to make amp draw relevant to the equation. If you are running 1.213 per cell IB's... you just might cook a 12A+ motor. If your batteries dont have that kinda juice... then you need a "hotter" motor to compensate. Reedy 767's work well with high voltage batteries and some of the heavier spring rates, for about two runs. They lack a bit of the RPM that Trinity 4499, or similar brush combos give, but they have that "pop" in cooler temperatures. Trinity 4499, or a combo of 4505+cavity/4504-full face will be a bit more resistant to higher output packs... and overgearing... giving you alot more runs by comparison. The F-brush hasnt been very consistent in compound (not that all brushes are super consistent... there are variations in all batches... but this seemed worse in the F-brush)... i had a batch that scorched comms... so i shied away from them after that. For break-in, pulse is the way to go. 1.5vlo/3.0vhi - 1 on the variation speed, 5 minutes on the time, and 1 minute break between 2 cycles for a total of 10 minutes. If you want to avoid excessive wear on the comm from the long runtime... break in new brushes on the old uncut comm for the first 5 minutes. Since the older (rougher) comm will wear the new brushes faster, the last 5 minutes on the fresh trued comm will be less abrasive, doing less damage. I also use a few drops of Zubak "Smurf Pee"... the blue stuff, on the comm, at the start of each cycle. A good flush with motor spray, let it dry and relube the bushings with synthetic oil and youre ready to roll. I have to say i am thoroughly impressed with this machine. Once you get a good baseline set for your motors as per your dyno (Fantom/CE)... the motors can be run on the MM, and give you good baseline numbers for that machine... then you will be able to rebuild your motors at the track and run them on the MM to be sure they havent fallen off... or have no need to either take your dyno to a race, or feel unsure if what you did to the motor helped OR hurt you. By the way... Arun at Nexus is tha' man. I know him personally... and knowing him, if you have ANY questions... he is definitely the man to talk to about MM products. Thanks for all your help!!



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Old 12-18-2005, 04:47 PM   #100
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hi. on my RPM bushing, the reflective sticker has moves a bit. and is not stright anymore (from the bushing touching the rubber when spinning)

i assume the reflective sticker needs to be straight to get accurate measurements?

can i redo that and put my own sticker on it? does it have to be reflective?

thanks
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Old 12-18-2005, 08:52 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
...
Wow, I missed your post Dave. A LOT of great information, there!


Quote:
Originally Posted by XingXing
hi. on my RPM bushing, the reflective sticker has moves a bit. and is not stright anymore (from the bushing touching the rubber when spinning)

i assume the reflective sticker needs to be straight to get accurate measurements?

can i redo that and put my own sticker on it? does it have to be reflective?

thanks
I think that your RPM sensor may be consistent within itself, but that it may not be consistent with a proper new one. I believe it also must be reflective. We have replacement sensors available on our site here: Motor Master Spare RPM Bushing

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Old 12-22-2005, 11:25 PM   #102
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I have own tip that keeping RPM check bushing.

You just attach serpent GUM on your MotorMaster.

It can be done quite easily.


Sorry for my poor english.


from south Korea,

Son In-Kwon.
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Old 12-23-2005, 07:15 AM   #103
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what do you do with the GUM? i dont understand..


also i bought my MM second hand, when does the fans operate? i have never been able to get them to run, not sure if they are faulty...
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Old 12-23-2005, 07:54 AM   #104
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I just got the CTX-M 3.0 recently and I was wondering if you stuck the motor into the rubber o-ring when doing RPM checking. Can someone explain to me how to do a proper RPM checking. The instruction is not very detailed.
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Old 12-23-2005, 08:40 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XingXing
what do you do with the GUM? i dont understand..


also i bought my MM second hand, when does the fans operate? i have never been able to get them to run, not sure if they are faulty...

The gum is to hold the bushing,I just tape mine to the MM somewhere.The fans will operate when the temp gets to a certain point,or at least that's what their supposed to do.To do RPM checks just put the bushing on the motor and place it in the MM,I've already ate a bushing up so be careful!
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