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Old 04-22-2005, 01:58 PM   #1381
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Steve,
Do you have a ETA on Yokomo Ceramics?
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Old 04-22-2005, 02:06 PM   #1382
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randy Caster
I just fitted the aluminum rear dogbones onto the Yokomo outdrives, and there is no play at all in them. This combo should outlast everything out there. Perfect fit.
Randy... are those aluminum ones you are talking about the same as the ones on the SDW (old style universal design, not CVDs)? If so, I'm thinking of doing the same...
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Old 04-22-2005, 02:12 PM   #1383
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i think he means he is using the stock steel outdrives but using the aluminium bones from yokomo.
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Old 04-22-2005, 02:24 PM   #1384
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hoping to find some Tobee aluminum bones...
more durable than the Yok. aluminum bones.
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Old 04-22-2005, 02:32 PM   #1385
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Quote:
Originally posted by eeyan
Randy... are those aluminum ones you are talking about the same as the ones on the SDW (old style universal design, not CVDs)? If so, I'm thinking of doing the same...
They are just the lightweight aluminum universal bones that fit to the stock axles. I'm talking about the rear of the car, I'm still running steel up front.
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Old 04-22-2005, 02:32 PM   #1386
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
hoping to find some Tobee aluminum bones...
more durable than the Yok. aluminum bones.
I had more problems with the Tobee bones than the Yok's in the past, the Tobee bones taper down and get thin towards the outdrive, and that seemed to be where I would bend them.
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Old 04-22-2005, 02:43 PM   #1387
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randy Caster
They are just the lightweight aluminum universal bones that fit to the stock axles. I'm talking about the rear of the car, I'm still running steel up front.
Okay, I'm slightly going on a different direction then... and see if the parts I'll use lasts longer... There is something about the stock universal couplers(and pins) that bothers me...
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Old 04-22-2005, 03:39 PM   #1388
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Quote:
Originally posted by eeyan
Okay, I'm slightly going on a different direction then... and see if the parts I'll use lasts longer... There is something about the stock universal couplers(and pins) that bothers me...
Rayspeed has CVD's, and Yokomo also has another kind of universal that comes assembled. I really dont think there is anything wrong with the stock CVA's as I've never had a problem with them.
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Old 04-22-2005, 05:11 PM   #1389
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the tobees are a no no with a one way or spool, been runnng them on the rear of one of my cars for quite a while now and no problems
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Old 04-22-2005, 05:17 PM   #1390
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randy Caster
Rayspeed has CVD's...
Will try the rayspeeds in the near future as well... Only wish was that they were made in blue, but performance count first of course...
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Old 04-22-2005, 09:54 PM   #1391
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Beware of RaySpeed CVD's up front. I broken 2 or 3 bones in one race day just grazing the outside wall. Of course this was my fault (except one hehe). But it sucked walking all over the track looking for my oneway outdrives.... I'd stick with the steel ones. Or go for the Yokomo Hardend universal front set. Square Ti bones are nice as well.
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Old 04-22-2005, 10:47 PM   #1392
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Well my 1 way testing is going to take a break for the next month. Just threw a spool in up front and am going to start trying to get a setup for that (and learn how to drive with brakes again) This should be fun..
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Old 04-23-2005, 08:59 AM   #1393
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randy Caster
Well my 1 way testing is going to take a break for the next month. Just threw a spool in up front and am going to start trying to get a setup for that (and learn how to drive with brakes again) This should be fun..
where did you get it????

or is it a "locked" diff (for right now....)
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Old 04-23-2005, 09:35 AM   #1394
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc_bam226
I looked around the 'net, and read some ABEC explainations, and yes, the higher the ABEC rating, the more precise the bearing is in manufacturing, tolerances, and all that good stuff. And the unique thing is that its all on the roller-blade, and skateboard sites. Every sport has the need for speed.
Now you all tell me.
Guess I can return them and wait like the rest of you and get the Yokomos.
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Old 04-23-2005, 09:41 AM   #1395
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Oh but wait....Looky what I just Googled.....
Makes a lot of sence too.

Quote:
seskate.com
ABEC RATINGS


About this page:

A lot of our customers are confused about what an ABEC rating means. The following info is from an American bearing company that manufactures ABEC rated bearings and non-ABEC rated bearings.

What is ABEC?

ABEC stands for Annular Bearing Engineers' Committee. This committee works to determine the standards for bearings for the Anti-Friction Bearing Manufacturers Association (AFBMA).

The ABEC scale classifies different accuracy and tolerance ranges for bearings. The first column of this table lists the five ratings in the ABEC scale.

ABEC Ratings
ISO Class

ABEC1
Class 0

ABEC3
Class 6

ABEC5
Class 5

ABEC7
Class 4

ABEC9
Class 2


The ABEC rating of a bearing is determined by the following (for a 608 size bearing):

How close the bore is to 8mm in microns
How close the outer diameter is to 22 in microns
How close the width is to 7mm in microns
The rotating accuracy in microns
The second column of the table lists the corresponding tolerance classes as defined by ISO, the International Organization for Standardization. Both systems are widely used in the bearing industry but ABEC has been adopted by skate manufacturers.

Does ABEC affect the speed of your skates?
No. Not unless you are skating at 330 mph. That's based on a 608 bearing limiting speed of 32,000 rpm. Only in extremely high speed applications like ultra high speed motors and precision measuring instruments can bearings above ABEC 1 affect performance. Regardless of how fast you plan to go, speed is affected first and foremost by the choice of lubricant.

If we're going to talk about tolerances, the fit of your wheels and axles have a much greater effect on performance than ABEC rating. Wheels and axles for inline skates have extremely loose fits that allow you to press the bearings into the wheel by hand. This masks the benefits of a higher precision bearing by allowing it to slip on the axle or in the wheel. Slippage between the mating parts results in energy loss. Lost energy is lost speed.

Lubricant

What is it?

The two most common lubricants are grease and oil. Grease is basically oil with a thickener or soap. The thickener acts like a sponge to soak up the oil when not in use.

What does it do?

keeps metal parts from wearing against one another
keeps dirt away from the sensitive inner workings
Grease Oil
helps keep dirt out prevents material wear
can suspend contaminants requires frequent servicing
prevents material wear has low torque
requires little servicing does not last as long
increases torque
lasts a long time

From the above you can see that a greased bearing requires little servicing yet cannot run as fast as an oiled bearing. An oiled bearing is susceptible to dust and contamination so it needs to be serviced more often. As grease is thicker, it acts as a seal against dirt, but at the same time it can increase torque and slow down the bearing.
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