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Old 04-09-2005, 08:58 AM   #916
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randy Caster
SoCal sells those shims, they are just a 3mm shim assortment.
Which the Tamiya or the Square?
Stephen
I'll be there next Sunday for the JBRL.....Look out for the Mirror E-Stratus in Sportsman. Man I am so old I had to paint it mirror so I can actually race.LOL
Thanks for intel.
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Old 04-09-2005, 09:10 AM   #917
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Quote:
Originally posted by lazyboy
well i guess ill be adding this car to the list of cars to get over the summer...not like i need anymore

what things do you need to get for foam with this car, what toe blocks and stuff..since idk what comes with the kit
You will need 1 degree toe for the rear, for shock springs use associated purple and yellow. You will also need foam tires (of course) buy parma cyan and magenta; they fit the car better than Jaco's. You will also need a front differential and locked center pulley. I read EA motorsports will be selling a carpet chassis for the car; it should help some also.
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Old 04-09-2005, 09:16 AM   #918
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Quote:
Originally posted by pheyhoe
can you just use the normal SD holes or not???
NO YOU CAN NOT!



just joking, of course you can
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Old 04-09-2005, 09:54 AM   #919
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Sowwy Mr Howard i wont do it again

I will try the suggested way but i dont see any gain, maybee you can explain why its better?
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Old 04-09-2005, 10:11 AM   #920
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Originally posted by pheyhoe
Sowwy Mr Howard i wont do it again

I will try the suggested way but i dont see any gain, maybee you can explain why its better?
it's because that thing with the front correlates with the link on the bottom that attaches to the servo works better that way. I have no idea, maybe Masami can come on here and explain it
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Old 04-09-2005, 07:51 PM   #921
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ran the BD yesterday... made one of the fastest time on the track... this car really handles extremly well... i just replaced the white spings in front to blue spring just to get a little more steering.

i ran the BD with the TC4 bones, TC4 outdrives and rayspeed axles, everything seemed to work out very well... but i did have to remove some material from the hex hubs, if you don't there will be some binding as you tighten the front wheels...

... i'll probable use the 108 or 112 spur... thanks - jason
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Old 04-09-2005, 07:55 PM   #922
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Sounds good! I just heard that a BD TQ'd and won the first points race at Speedworld out in norcal this weekend as well. It doesn't sound like it's taking people too long to get up to speed with the car at all.
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Old 04-09-2005, 07:58 PM   #923
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I really don't see why you went to the TC4 dones. What is wrong with the Hardened CVD's?
Are the lighter than the Rayspeed Ti cvds?
Are they stronger than them either?
What are the +'s to swithing to the TC4 ones?
After you pay for the bones and out drives and mill out your hex hubs there better be a good reason.
Just curious why all the hype.
Thanks in advance.
Stephen <><
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Old 04-09-2005, 08:02 PM   #924
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
Sounds good! I just heard that a BD TQ'd and won the first points race at Speedworld out in norcal this weekend as well. It doesn't sound like it's taking people too long to get up to speed with the car at all.
No dought. I took a .25 second off my lap times with my fully hopped up SD. I am going to try to get the best setup possible with the SD and see if it can still compete. If not it will be my back up car just in case of a fatal accident......LOL
I just got a simple setup and it is fast out the box.
THANKS YOKOMO.
Stephen <><
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Old 04-09-2005, 08:07 PM   #925
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mr. Shookie
I really don't see why you went to the TC4 dones. What is wrong with the Hardened CVD's?
Are the lighter than the Rayspeed Ti cvds?
Are they stronger than them either?
What are the +'s to swithing to the TC4 ones?
After you pay for the bones and out drives and mill out your hex hubs there better be a good reason.
Just curious why all the hype.
Thanks in advance.
Stephen <><
The Rayspeed CVD's are aluminum, not Titanium. The TC4 CVD bones are much thicker than the Rayspeed CVD's so they will be much more durable. If you're not having any problems with your Rayspeed CVD's then there's no need to convert over to the TC4 bones. I myself never run any aluminum cvd or driveshafts in the front just because I've bent them before and oneway's and spools with mod motors can be pretty hard on them.
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Old 04-09-2005, 08:13 PM   #926
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mr. Shookie
I really don't see why you went to the TC4 dones. What is wrong with the Hardened CVD's?
Are the lighter than the Rayspeed Ti cvds?
Are they stronger than them either?
What are the +'s to swithing to the TC4 ones?
After you pay for the bones and out drives and mill out your hex hubs there better be a good reason.
Just curious why all the hype.
Thanks in advance.
Stephen <><



hi stephen... first and foremost on my mind when i switched to the TC4 bones was reliabilty and durability... i use to break the cvd pins on CGM and wore them out quite fast.

when i swicthed to the rayspeed MIP's but i broke 1 on the bones after 8 packs... only recently was i able to replace it.

weight for me is NOT an issue, as i run modified allmost all the time...

some would say the the alum bones would eventually wear out... but in my expereince with my XXXS, the MIP made bones also wore out, but it was, at least, very predicatble, unlike the steel ones, that break without warning... I've had several bad expierences with the steel ones.

... last "plus" but not really an issue... the TC4 bones look really really good on the BD !

BTW, i use the yoke blue alum on the rear.
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Old 04-09-2005, 08:26 PM   #927
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... BTW, i think the car needs thicker rear sway bars... at the very least equivalent to the front... we dont have the them yet in our LHS yet, so i couldn't experiment.
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Old 04-09-2005, 09:03 PM   #928
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one more thing, you don't have "mill out" the hexs, whether your using the rayspeed or old belt drive mips you have to file down the inside of the hex, the hard yok uni's are expensive. just as much as a set of bones and outdrives

but just to clarify, your using all tc4 parts? thought it was the nitro tc3 out drives and tc4 bones.
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Old 04-10-2005, 08:05 AM   #929
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I have had no problem with the bones what so ever.rAN MY CAR AGAIN LAST NIGHT AND IT JUST GETS BETTER ,Changed my setup to a similar setup used by matt on his sd and the car picked up more speed.Leaving for the track now and will report later Team yokomo is back
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Old 04-10-2005, 08:20 AM   #930
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Quote:
Originally posted by highwayman
hi stephen... first and foremost on my mind when i switched to the TC4 bones was reliabilty and durability... i use to break the cvd pins on CGM and wore them out quite fast.

when i swicthed to the rayspeed MIP's but i broke 1 on the bones after 8 packs... only recently was i able to replace it.

weight for me is NOT an issue, as i run modified allmost all the time...

some would say the the alum bones would eventually wear out... but in my expereince with my XXXS, the MIP made bones also wore out, but it was, at least, very predicatble, unlike the steel ones, that break without warning... I've had several bad expierences with the steel ones.

... last "plus" but not really an issue... the TC4 bones look really really good on the BD !

BTW, i use the yoke blue alum on the rear.
Cool I only race 27T and 19T so I really don't need them I have the Stock hardened CVDs up front and the Rayspeed in the rear.
I have only needed to replace the pins and connectors twice in a year on the SD but for a $2.35 part I don;t mind paying that. But in MOD I could see why you need a sturdy front drive train.
Just was wondering is all.
I think I can safely keep what I amn running and be very happy.
The Rayspeed are a tiny bit lighter than the Tobee Craft or the Yokomo ones that is the only real reason why I keep them.
I have a complete set of front and rear Tobee craft CVD's in my pit box so really don;t need to upgrade right away.
Did I mention how much I love Yokomo for keeping the Drive trains the same....SO I already have lots of spares.....
Stephen <><
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