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Old 09-04-2008, 05:00 AM   #8386
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Originally Posted by mark34 View Post
Can some one please help with my rebuild of my rear diff however I rebuild it it feels very notchy I have changed everything but the plates which are nt that worn any advice would be appeciated
Was it notchy on the first build?

If not then I'll wager it probably IS the plates, they may not look worn but are worth replacing every time you change the balls, they are a significant wear point.

The other thing about the Yokomo diff outputs is that they are not always a consistent moulding - you can get a high spot in the diff because of that.

I don't know if Yokomo themselves do alloy diff outdrives, but on the Scythe (which also uses Yokomo diff parts as standard), we now have TOP's own outputs (which are used with a 2mm screw and thrust instead), available in both alloy and composite, which build a more consistent diff.
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Old 09-04-2008, 05:31 AM   #8387
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Get yourself 2000 grit sandpaper
put it on a glas plate

put one diffplate on the long diff outdrive and sand it till it's flat and the groove is gone and the plate looks a little shiny
then put the other diffplate on the outdrive and sand it aswell

also sand the thrust bearing plates to remove any groove.


remove the diffballs from the pulley and use a toothbrush to clean the pulley, especially the holes the balls run in

clean the diffballs and thrustbearing balls with break cleaner

use AE white grease (CAREFUL only the one with the BLACK LETTERS!)

to fix the diffplates to the outdrives (clean diffplates with break cleaner on a paper towel afterwards)

put the diff balls back into the pulley
put one drop of grease from every side on every ball

use ae black grease to build the thrust bearing .. not too much ...

insert the thrust bearing/spring/screw unit into the long outdrive and hold it in place with your screw driver
then put the pulley ontop of the long outdrive

now screw it together with the short outdrive and you should have a silky smooth feeling differential

when tightening an alloy diff:
if you tighten it you will feel a spot where it gets tighter very quickly and the screwdriver gets harder to rotate ... untighten the diffscrew from there 1/2 a turn for modified and 3/4 for stock racing


yokomo does have alloy outdrives

partnumber is bd-500a

use muchmore joint grease to reduce wear (tamiya aw is good too)

I use yok carbid diffballs for important races as it locks better .. but usually ceramic balls do and don't need to be replaced as long as the diff feels smooth .. it can happen that the balls break if you don't sand the diffplates ... and you will feel that the diff catches every bit of a turn .. that is a flat spot on a diffball then


Hope I could help you .. if it's not easy enough to understand let me know and I'll do a step-by-step photo coverage *g*
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Old 09-04-2008, 06:25 AM   #8388
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Hi Martin and Sos
Thanks for the replys, I have just returned to the yokomo fold after some time with xray cars I will feed back later how all this goes
Mark
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Old 09-04-2008, 07:29 AM   #8389
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Martin you should not polish diff rings, below is taken from the irs web site, explaining why the rings should not be polished.

1. Why do you sand your diff rings instead of polishing them?
R/C differentials are a friction style differential. The diff balls (we suggest our grade 25 diff balls P/N IRS204) need to grip the diff ring to work efficiently. If you polish the diff rings, the diff will slip and therefore be less efficient. Roughen the diff rings with sandpaper to create more grip for the diff balls. By using this method you should not have to over tighten the diff nut to stop the spur gear from slipping, this is when most diffs are damaged.
I suggest you try this experiment if you don't believe me. Build a diff polishing the diff rings and feel how it works. Then build a diff using the method described in question #2, You'll feel a definite difference. As an added bonus, when the rings start to wear, resand and reuse.. You'll get more races out of the same rings and they get better each time you sand them! This trick will work on all ball differentials.
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Old 09-04-2008, 07:39 AM   #8390
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I bought an SD SSG I think in 2005. I didnt realize that it was already out of date. I loved the car anyway. Im running a serpent right now. I have thought of getting a BD but I have kind of been waiting for a new version. How are you guys doing with this car? Are you pretty competitive against the Cyclones and X-rays, Serpents?

I wish Yok would produce the new BD in SSG as well as black CF.
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:52 AM   #8391
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Default Asphalt setup

Anyone have any advise on a great setup for asphalt?

Thanks
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:22 AM   #8392
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Anyone have any advise on a great setup for asphalt?

Thanks
what are the track conditions ?
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:36 AM   #8393
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what are the track conditions ?
What up bro? You running the KO race?
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:09 PM   #8394
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Well I'd suggest just try it yourself before doubting my comment ...

Chris Grainger, Masami and me do it that way so I guess it is good enough
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:12 PM   #8395
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
What up bro? You running the KO race?
Yea J,
you going? I'll split the cost with ya to help keep things less costly...
-Shookie <><
I hope they have a World GT class even for just for fun class...like say 13.5 or 17.5 and 4 cell...run any two door body....easy rules all for fun to help out a new class...I would love to run it...LOL
\
J hit me up after the 9th....you got the #...I am chillin in Morro Bay today and Pismo tomorrow, than SB on Monday and tuesday....
L8
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Old 09-04-2008, 02:46 PM   #8396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer View Post
Get yourself 2000 grit sandpaper
put it on a glas plate

put one diffplate on the long diff outdrive and sand it till it's flat and the groove is gone and the plate looks a little shiny
then put the other diffplate on the outdrive and sand it aswell

also sand the thrust bearing plates to remove any groove.


remove the diffballs from the pulley and use a toothbrush to clean the pulley, especially the holes the balls run in

clean the diffballs and thrustbearing balls with break cleaner

use AE white grease (CAREFUL only the one with the BLACK LETTERS!)

to fix the diffplates to the outdrives (clean diffplates with break cleaner on a paper towel afterwards)

put the diff balls back into the pulley
put one drop of grease from every side on every ball

use ae black grease to build the thrust bearing .. not too much ...

insert the thrust bearing/spring/screw unit into the long outdrive and hold it in place with your screw driver
then put the pulley ontop of the long outdrive

now screw it together with the short outdrive and you should have a silky smooth feeling differential

when tightening an alloy diff:
if you tighten it you will feel a spot where it gets tighter very quickly and the screwdriver gets harder to rotate ... untighten the diffscrew from there 1/2 a turn for modified and 3/4 for stock racing


yokomo does have alloy outdrives

partnumber is bd-500a

use muchmore joint grease to reduce wear (tamiya aw is good too)

I use yok carbid diffballs for important races as it locks better .. but usually ceramic balls do and don't need to be replaced as long as the diff feels smooth .. it can happen that the balls break if you don't sand the diffplates ... and you will feel that the diff catches every bit of a turn .. that is a flat spot on a diffball then


Hope I could help you .. if it's not easy enough to understand let me know and I'll do a step-by-step photo coverage *g*
Hi Martin followed to the letter and now have a perfect diff
Thanks for taking the time to make the post
Mark
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Old 09-04-2008, 03:32 PM   #8397
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glad i could help
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:30 PM   #8398
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Default Track condition

The Track conditions is med to low bite due to dust.
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:54 PM   #8399
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nice!
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Old 09-04-2008, 07:33 PM   #8400
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Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post
I bought an SD SSG I think in 2005. I didnt realize that it was already out of date. I loved the car anyway. Im running a serpent right now. I have thought of getting a BD but I have kind of been waiting for a new version. How are you guys doing with this car? Are you pretty competitive against the Cyclones and X-rays, Serpents?

I wish Yok would produce the new BD in SSG as well as black CF.
I am the only bd in my area and race against all the other brands with foams on carpet. the bd is very competitive. I did have a thicker chassis made to help with the high grip.
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