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Old 08-22-2007, 02:18 AM   #7576
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ZS-4134 CASTER BLOCKS

Hi,

Just wondering where you are getting the ZS-4134 Caster blocks/hubs as two shops I have tried to get them from, say they discontinued. In previous posts chris and others state that the CGM steering rack modification requires these caster blocks/hubs, so as to get the full benefit of more steering throw left and right. I suppose the alternate is to dremel a couple of mm from the standard ones, which may weaken them.

Anyone able to help supply a Hobby shop name/contact that has them in stock??

Thanks

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 08-22-2007 at 05:02 AM. Reason: UPDATE INFO
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Old 08-22-2007, 05:51 AM   #7577
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stormer have themin stock:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=YZS4134
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Old 08-22-2007, 10:47 AM   #7578
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Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
Hi,

Just wondering where you are getting the ZS-4134 Caster blocks/hubs as two shops I have tried to get them from, say they discontinued. In previous posts chris and others state that the CGM steering rack modification requires these caster blocks/hubs, so as to get the full benefit of more steering throw left and right. I suppose the alternate is to dremel a couple of mm from the standard ones, which may weaken them.

Anyone able to help supply a Hobby shop name/contact that has them in stock??

Thanks

Calvin.
or here,

http://www.eseller.ch/product_info.p...4--vom-K4.html
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Old 08-23-2007, 04:29 AM   #7579
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Thumbs up ZS-4134 CASTER BLOCKS

Thank you for the info, ordered from Stormer.

Cheers

Calvin.
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Old 08-24-2007, 01:12 PM   #7580
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To fit the knuckle you can need to put the bottom top hat under the castor block the other way up. And the top one either cut the top of it off or trim the hub so it fits in there.

Nuts are part no, ZCN4FBL for the blue ones. They are flanged with knurls in them so they bite into the wheel.
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Old 08-25-2007, 03:13 AM   #7581
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Originally Posted by John Pape View Post
To fit the knuckle you can need to put the bottom top hat under the castor block the other way up. And the top one either cut the top of it off or trim the hub so it fits in there.

Nuts are part no, ZCN4FBL for the blue ones. They are flanged with knurls in them so they bite into the wheel.
Hi John,

Any chance of getting a photo of this? (front hub assembly)

Cheers,
JJC
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Old 08-25-2007, 07:18 AM   #7582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Pape View Post
To fit the knuckle you can need to put the bottom top hat under the castor block the other way up. And the top one either cut the top of it off or trim the hub so it fits in there.

Nuts are part no, ZCN4FBL for the blue ones. They are flanged with knurls in them so they bite into the wheel.
Hi John,

Do you have any setups for rubber tyres on carpet using the modified steering? Perhaps a set up Chris used at Carpet wars?

Would be much appreciated, oh and thanks for coming on here and giving us some good advice as Chris's official spokesperson
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Old 08-25-2007, 08:12 AM   #7583
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Originally Posted by Sleighty View Post
Hi John,

Do you have any setups for rubber tyres on carpet using the modified steering? Perhaps a set up Chris used at Carpet wars?

Would be much appreciated, oh and thanks for coming on here and giving us some good advice as Chris's official spokesperson
Setups from CML for BD


Setups from CML for BD Grainger ed
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Old 08-25-2007, 08:18 AM   #7584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Pape View Post
Chris Graingers setup from Euros.

Front
Drive train Yokomo alloy spool and fixed centre pulley
Roll-bar - none
Caster block 4 plastic
Camber - -2
Toe angle - 0
Susp spacer 1 mm under all 0.5 mount used
Steering arm - -0 inline graphite
Bladder Tamiya black, no O ring
Body - new version
Length - 1.5mm spacer inside, 11.6mm travel outside
Spring - Yokomo pro dot pink
Oil 450
Piston Tamiya #3
Droop - 5.5 to bottom of caster block
Top link inner 1mm under ball
Shock upper 3rd out lower tower
Shock lower middle
Ride height - 5mm
Ackermann 2nd from back

Rear
Roll-bar - none
Camber - -2
Toe angle 3
Susp spacer 0mm under all
Bladder Tamiya black no O ring
Body - new version
Length - 1.5mm spacer inside, 11.6mm travel outside
Spring yokomo pro dot blue
Oil - 400
Piston Tamiya #3
Droop 4.5 measured to hub, or wishbone
Top link inner - 0 washers
Top link outer - , short silver ball + 2mm washer
Shock upper 2nd in
Shock lower - outer hole
Susp arm - graphite
W/B 2-2
Ride height 5.5

There are loads on pictures of his car particularly on John Doucakis website.

how does this compare to the long ball? is this still lower that the longer stud?
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Old 08-25-2007, 01:12 PM   #7585
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Yer thanks for stating the obvious, that wasnt what i was after.
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Old 08-25-2007, 05:04 PM   #7586
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Thumbs up CYCLONE CASTER BLOCKS

G'day John,

I have looked into using the 4 degree cyclone caster block as used on Chris's car and want to know, if this is all the parts required for fitment to the BD.

4125-P4S1 king pin collars (scythe PNo)
73516-9 carbon graphite C hub set
4125-P4S1 Suspension pin 2.5 x 25mm (scythe PNo)

The front lower outer a-arm would require drilling out to 2.5mm diameter for fitting of the cyclone C-hub.

What advantage does this give over dremeling of the original C hub? Another question I can see in the photo's Chris uses the following suspension armspacers RR (R +3) FR (?) RF (RF 0.5) FF (?). what are the two unknowns please.


Thank you

Calvin
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Old 08-26-2007, 02:27 PM   #7587
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Hi all

Has anyone had much experience with the BD on carpet?

I recently sold my MI3 cause I didnt really like the way it handled and I'm looking to get a Chris Grainger version as its come down in price over here by loads. I want to use it for asphalt and carpet but with the indoor season aproaching it will be run on carpet first. I know some people say it has too much chassis flex but I will be using rubber tyres so what are your thoughts please?

Thanks
Tim
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Old 08-26-2007, 03:42 PM   #7588
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for carpet racing the bd has slightly to much flex which i think make the car feel sluggish out of corners. however when i raced at stafford indoor i am .7 off a lap from the top guys but with the demon 3mm im just .2. but a lot comes down to setup driver and tyres
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:26 PM   #7589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim fry View Post
Hi all

Has anyone had much experience with the BD on carpet?

I recently sold my MI3 cause I didnt really like the way it handled and I'm looking to get a Chris Grainger version as its come down in price over here by loads. I want to use it for asphalt and carpet but with the indoor season aproaching it will be run on carpet first. I know some people say it has too much chassis flex but I will be using rubber tyres so what are your thoughts please?

Thanks
Tim
YOKOMO BD with hardened Graphite chassis will do the job a little flex is ok since your running rubber tires. I've run mine on carpet a lot when we used to have our indoor carpet track but it close down due to luck of support.

To take away some flex and to stiffen up the chassis use a counter sunk washer on the top deck.

A good starting setup is MASAMIS's setup at LRP masters few years back. I think They have it posted at YOKOMO USA website.
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:28 PM   #7590
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hi im new to the bd (and racing) and am planning to run 27turns on asphalt. and i dont know what gear ratio i should start with.. i currently have 6.55 but havent tried it yet on the tracks. that ratio do you think would be best on the track? my motor is a 27 turn epic. thanks
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