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Old 05-25-2007, 11:08 AM   #7276
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I have never melt a diff pulley even though running 3,5T GM with 6 cells on high bite carpet.

but i also use rubber tires.

I have never glued diffplates to the outdrives as i replace them every 10 - 20 packs or so. worked fine.

one thing that can cause your diff to melt are the carbid diffballs. Give ceramic a try as the carbid wear pretty fast and then the diffplates are rubbing on the plastic. except this i can really not imagine any reason for the pulleys to melt.
Maybe you really push your car hard as you are running foams and due to this stress your diff much more than we rubber tire drivers do.
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Old 05-25-2007, 12:00 PM   #7277
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i have melted 2 times my rear diff cause of slipping!! i didn't tight it after the lube that wasn't needed went out!! so i burned it , and one time i didn't melt it but i broke the pulley , i'll try to post a pic!
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Old 05-25-2007, 12:39 PM   #7278
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i have never been threw a diff and i never glue my diff the only other thing i can suggest is to see if the yokomo mr4 tc pulley fit as they can put up with more heat
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Old 05-25-2007, 04:50 PM   #7279
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I have seen the diff pully melting problem before, it was solved by changing the thrust spring for a new one, this was done after new pulley's, diff balls , plates and lock nut were fitted and the pulley still melted but after the spring was swapped out the problem did not reoccur.
Its a cheap part give it a try.
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Old 05-26-2007, 02:11 AM   #7280
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thanks zach, u really right. the problem with the lock nut. excel delrin outer drive only used aluminium piece. no locking at all. when i used the original outer drive, i use all new except the lock nut. i try it alredy and no more problem with the diff at all. thanks alot man...
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Old 05-26-2007, 02:21 AM   #7281
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you are welcome man !!
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Old 05-26-2007, 02:32 AM   #7282
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sorry i cant post the pictures, the damaged was the solid piece between holes for diff ball was melted, and smaller part which hold the bearing apart from the belt pulley. so the diff pulley has a big hole in the middle. and the diff ball stick together in cirle position. also damage 2 of my excel delrin. but i dont have problem at all before using the excel delrin in smaller track...
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Old 05-26-2007, 04:08 AM   #7283
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Good to know ;-)
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Old 05-26-2007, 11:07 AM   #7284
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those driveshafts could be the original tir's before they brought out the worlds edition. I've got a set, look very similar. I melted two diffs running a 4.5 on carpet - much more cautious now with it. can start slipping no matter how tight i do it after 4 runs. will try ceramic and glue the plates.

chaz - if you are the ginger one - don't be giving advice to this lot!
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Old 05-26-2007, 03:08 PM   #7285
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im sorry so i cant even try and offer some advise for god sake
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Old 05-27-2007, 11:10 PM   #7286
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will be my 1st time running mod in an upcomming club race... any set-up suggestions? I'll be using a GTB/4.5 on low-bite indoor asphalt. will some front anti-dive help?

also, how do i set-up the car with a spool? hoping to get more off-power turn-in

current set-up (used for 23/27/19T)
Front:
Shock mount: 3rd hole from outermost
Shocks: 30WT oil, almost zero rebound
Tamiya Blue springs
Ackerman: 2nd hole from front
Roll center: 1mm spacer under both arm mounts
1mm spacer on inner camber link
no spacer on the outer camber link (using middle hole)
0.5deg FR arm mount
lower hole on Chub, spacer on top kingpin screw
stock swaybar
2deg camber
0deg toe
1mm uptravel (droop)
center fixed pulley
front one-way or spool?

Rear:
Shock mount: 2nd hole from outermost
Shocks: 30WT oil, almost zero rebound
Tamiya Yellow springs
Roll center: no spacers under both arm mounts
1mm spacer on inner camber link
no spacer on the outer camber link
2deg RR arm mount, 0.5deg rear uprights (total 2.5deg toe-in)
lower hole on rear uprights
2 deg camber
2mm uptravel (droop)

Tires: Sorex 36R
Inserts: Sorex TypeC Medium
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Last edited by VooDooPH; 05-27-2007 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 05-28-2007, 01:23 AM   #7287
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setups looks pretty good

i would try to mount the front camber link not on the middle hole on the c-hub, but on the ball-kingpin.
Have you tried a spool yet?
Spool gives you a more direct feel when turning in, but then pushes slightly. If you brake just a little bit you get more steering corner entry. But you really have to be careful not to get to slow.

What body are you running?
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Old 05-28-2007, 03:57 AM   #7288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer
setups looks pretty good

i would try to mount the front camber link not on the middle hole on the c-hub, but on the ball-kingpin.
Have you tried a spool yet?
Spool gives you a more direct feel when turning in, but then pushes slightly. If you brake just a little bit you get more steering corner entry. But you really have to be careful not to get to slow.

What body are you running?
running an Excel Accord now. Tried the ball-kingpin on the chub but it tended to rub the ball cup on the inside of the wheel.

here's the BD with the GTB/4.5... as neat as i can put it together...

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Old 05-28-2007, 06:02 AM   #7289
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vooodoo, trim the upper part of the ballcup with an exacto knife. thats what i do. and it works for me.

see you 3rd round dude.

sorry if i wasnt able to reply a while ago, anyway.. by using anti-dive it will lessen your front caster, so i guess it will turn in more. i tried it last round and it gave my car lots of steering.
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Old 05-28-2007, 06:09 AM   #7290
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thanks jay!

anti-dive means raising the front or rear suspension pin mount?
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