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Old 05-24-2007, 10:49 AM   #7261
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tantalus/voodoo: i did the frankenstein version of cyclone/BD front end i used cyclone c-hubs and steering knuckles on the stock BD front arms. a bit of filing and dremel on the c-hubs and arms to fit them together. since the cyclone c-hub hinge pin hole is 2.5mm and the stock BD arms have 2mm holes, i reamed the arms to 2.5mm using a 2.5mm hand drill. i bought a couple of 2.5mm drill bits and cut off the drill part, using the shaft as hinge pins. i had to retrim the atv's to prevent binding

i did this mod because someone bought all the c-hubs and steering knuckles from our lhs and i wanted to run badly that weekend
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Old 05-24-2007, 04:41 PM   #7262
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Got a ?

Will a 48Pitch 81T spur gear fit this car?
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Old 05-24-2007, 04:46 PM   #7263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chumanji
Got a ?

Will a 48Pitch 81T spur gear fit this car?

i run 64 pitch but i think the kit comes with 48 pitch 80T so 81 will fit it!!
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Old 05-24-2007, 04:50 PM   #7264
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Default BD spur

The Grainger(UK) kit comes with a 83T 48DP spur.

regards

Don
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Old 05-24-2007, 05:24 PM   #7265
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thanks for the replys all.

But I just realized I post on the wrong thread. i have a SD car...mis-read the BD for SD. It came with a 76T spur.
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Old 05-25-2007, 02:10 AM   #7266
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A QUESTION PLEASE, I JUST USING BD. ASPHAT OUTDOOR TRACK WITH FOAM TIRE. I KEPT MELTING THE DIFF PULLEY, 3 TIMES ALREADY. ANYBODY HAVE IDEA WHATS WRONG WITH THAT? THANKS...
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Old 05-25-2007, 02:20 AM   #7267
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you should talking about the rear diff right??
it is too loose , even if at your hands at the pits feels ok , make it a little tighter , cause when you hitting the throtle roughly and cause of the foam you have traction the power needs to go somewhere , so the diff slips again and again , the temp gets high and it melts!!
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Old 05-25-2007, 03:21 AM   #7268
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I ALREDY TIGHT IT UP, BUT STILL MELTING THE PULLEY. I USE EXCEL OUTER DIFF DRIVE, ALSO MELTED. I BOUGHT NEW DIFF SET WITH CARBIDE DIFF BALL AND TRUST BALL, ALL NEW. I TIGHT IT UP ALL THE WAY, THEN ONLY TURN BACK 3QUARTER TURN, STILL MELTING. IAM USING NOVAK 4.5R AND THE TRACK STRAIGHT ABOUT 60M LONG. IS THAT CAUSED MY PULLEY MELTING? THANKS ALOT...
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Old 05-25-2007, 03:33 AM   #7269
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NOT 60M, MAY BE 45M LONG, ALL YOKOMO BD HAS THE SAME PROBLEM. THE OTHER USING XRAY, LOSI, TAMIYA OR OTHER, DIDNT HAVE PROBLEM AT ALL. THE SAME PERSON USING XRAY, WHO SET MY DIFF. HE ALSO GET CONFUSED ABOUT THAT, BUT SMALLER TRACK WE DIDNT HAVE THAT PROBLEM AT ALL...
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Old 05-25-2007, 04:06 AM   #7270
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Like Zach told, probably your diff is melting cause it slips...
The track I'm driving at has a straight which has a length comparable to yours.

What diff grease are you using, I found there's a lot of difference between them. I strictly use the red associated silicon diff grease (not the stealth diff grease).

When using ceramic balls (dont know for carbide), I do the following to prep the diff:
I glue the diff plates to the outputs with ca glue, I put a extremely heavy polish compound on the balls/ plates (no grease, Paint cutter), after this put the diff together and tighten slightly, when its running light I start playing with it.
This makes an awfull sound, you are now letting the CERAMIC balls cutting a groove in the plates, I regularly add some more polishing compound and keep this up untill I have a good, kinda deep groove.
When this is done, completely clean the diff very thoroughly, all the polishing compound must be gone.

Now lube the diff balls with the asso silicon diff lube and tighten till it doesnt slip.
Why, ceramic balls are extremely hard (they dont get damaged by this, not even the slightest) so the contact with the plates is minimal, by making a groove there's more surface of the balls touching the plates. More contact -> more grip with less pressure -> extremely light running.

More info: http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

This works really well with ceramic balls!! Maintenace, just clean the balls and plates + relube, done
I never had a melted diff and its allways in perfect working order (driving 1/12th learns how to do a diff....)
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Old 05-25-2007, 05:39 AM   #7271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOPENK
NOT 60M, MAY BE 45M LONG, ALL YOKOMO BD HAS THE SAME PROBLEM. THE OTHER USING XRAY, LOSI, TAMIYA OR OTHER, DIDNT HAVE PROBLEM AT ALL. THE SAME PERSON USING XRAY, WHO SET MY DIFF. HE ALSO GET CONFUSED ABOUT THAT, BUT SMALLER TRACK WE DIDNT HAVE THAT PROBLEM AT ALL...

quante is right about what he said!!

But i thought of 2 more issue

first of all the locknut , you must replace it every time or every 2 times!!
I race witrh TC spec and 3.5 Vortex and i replace it every time.

secondly , after you build the diff do you prepare it before you race it??
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Old 05-25-2007, 06:07 AM   #7272
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I personally never replaced the locknut, but idd, perhaps that runs loose after some time.

Another thing I was thinking about, you run on foams, must people I see running on foam at our track have a driving style that uses a lot of throttle to get through a turn.
These persons also have 2-3 minutes less run time than me so they drive a lot more aggressive. (I drive about 10 minutes with 1 year old IB4200's and trust me, I'm not slow, the foams cant keep up)

I allways drive on rubber tires, and the rubber tires only allow a smooth driving style, which means easy on the throttle when half in turns,... This is a lot easier on the car. I think everyone that runs on rubber can confirm this.

So perhaps its also the foam tires that put too much stress on the diff in combination with the 4.5
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Old 05-25-2007, 06:16 AM   #7273
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that's right

but if he said that he tight it as much as possible and still burn it this isn't the problem!!

man do you have any pics of your burnt pulley??
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Old 05-25-2007, 09:42 AM   #7274
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Well, now that I rethink about it, I cannot understand you can generate enough heat with a slipping diff to melt the outdrives.
I think you didnt glue your diff plates to the outputs enough. I go all around with CA glue when I do this.
When the diff plates start slipping (the plastic D wont hold long with a 4.5) they'll melt the output in no time I can imagine.
When you CA the plates, try to roughen up the plastic surface somewhat so the glue holds better.
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Old 05-25-2007, 10:44 AM   #7275
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hi how worn are the diff rings or have you changed them and what are the bearings like in the diff
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