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Old 05-22-2007, 04:47 AM   #7231
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If you have overheating problems try to make shorter the wires!!
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Old 05-22-2007, 05:06 AM   #7232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canto54
here's a pic of my car with LRP TC spec speedo. Cap is smaller than the one of the GTB but there are so much place on the car!!
HB hubs front and rear?
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Old 05-22-2007, 05:08 AM   #7233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canto54
here's a pic of my car with LRP TC spec speedo. Cap is smaller than the one of the GTB but there are so much place on the car!!


hi... what ball caps did you use? - jason
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Old 05-22-2007, 06:07 AM   #7234
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Yes I'm using HB front end and rear upright.

I use the ballcup of the BX, ref is ZC-207HD, really strong, no slop and very nice look

I don't have any overheating problem at the moment. For cable length, I can shorten them for 1.5cm i think but I prefer keeping them a little longer so when I change the motor I can shorten them to keep a nice layout.

I'm quite new with the car. I just made three races with it and my first impressions are really good. The car is very consistant from one track to another and from various condition (many thanks to Martin for the setup basis )
Even on high bite traction condition, my car just have plenty of steering when most of the car had slight understeer. I switch from an Xray and I really don't regret!!
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:44 AM   #7235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canto54
here's a pic of my car with LRP TC spec speedo. Cap is smaller than the one of the GTB but there are so much place on the car!!
what wheel adaptors or wheel hex are you using??? are those the yokomo narrow ones???
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:51 AM   #7236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH
would you have a closer pic of the ESC/motor/TransCap area?

Thanks!
Here you go...

Btw, Canto54, I notice you're not running that small piece of alu between the topdeck and main chassis. Any difference in stifness??
Look like RDX hexes to me, or am I mistaken?
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:56 AM   #7237
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Quante... thanks! helps a lot! looks like i do need to solder new and longer wires to the transcap.

have a similar set-up (no aluminum bar between the chassis and top deck on the battery side)... helps the car flex more evenly and gives more grip when running rubber on asphalt.
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:19 PM   #7238
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you can also remove the rear carbon brace you will also notice difference!!
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:23 PM   #7239
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That was the only decent way to fit the cap, its just too large te get it in elsewhere.
Well, perhaps with one of those low profile servo's you can fit it in between, but I doubt it.

Aha, so I gotta getting rid of the rear brace and that alu piece. I was hesitent to do that cause I thought it would create even more rear bite and so take some steering away.
I'm already driving harder springs in the rear to make up for steering. Perhaps I need to try 2° toe in the rear....

thx for the advice!!
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Old 05-22-2007, 03:56 PM   #7240
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Are those stock plastic diff hubs good enough to withstand the power from brushless motors?
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:19 PM   #7241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quante
That was the only decent way to fit the cap, its just too large te get it in elsewhere.
Well, perhaps with one of those low profile servo's you can fit it in between, but I doubt it.

Aha, so I gotta getting rid of the rear brace and that alu piece. I was hesitent to do that cause I thought it would create even more rear bite and so take some steering away.
I'm already driving harder springs in the rear to make up for steering. Perhaps I need to try 2° toe in the rear....

thx for the advice!!
Quante,
here's my kit with a GTX for now (still need to buy the wires to mount the transcap)... i'm currently running it on 23, 27, and 19T. i'll run it with a GTB/4.5r after this weekends 27T club race...







Zach, so far the problem i've seen with BDs running mod are melted rear diffs. the rear diff halves seem to survive though.
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:17 AM   #7242
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My wheel hex are not the yokomo narrow ones but they are XRAY 4mm with 0.5mm spacers. I think they are quite the same as te yokomo ones.

As for me no problem with the plastic diff oudrives. I also have aluminium outdrives but they wear so fast!! I will see to modify them to use blades but I haven't the time yet.

I also remove the carbon brace and the aluminium stand off for the flex of the car. Car is really good outdoor like that. Plenty of grip and steering and very easy to drive.
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:08 AM   #7243
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canto54: thanks for the tip...

voodoo:
havent experienced my diffs melting in the few times ive run mod... i always rebuild my diffs the day before running mod motors...
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:26 AM   #7244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tantalus007
voodoo:[/B] havent experienced my diffs melting in the few times ive run mod... i always rebuild my diffs the day before running mod motors...
i guess its not as often as i thought. saw a couple though (jay and anton).
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:43 AM   #7245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH
looks like everone is busy... hehehehehe...

anyway, anyone have pix of their car with a GTB installed? trying to figure out where to put the huge transcap thingie...
i don't have a pic but i will try to explain, i placed the gtb on with the wires on the belt side, (the center of the chassis, i ran the wires thru the belt and attached the cap to the extra long piece of top deck that runs over top of the pinion. i used two zip ties to hold it. i will try and figure out how to post a picture
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