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Old 03-27-2007, 07:31 AM   #7021
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bx diff screw and the diff joints
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:02 AM   #7022
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Hi

Is anyone using the new narrow wheelhex clamps, do you run them with any spacers? If not do they rub on the ball cups.
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Old 03-27-2007, 11:37 AM   #7023
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hi, i run the narrow hexes, the spacer is to allow normal track wheel width, so dont use the spacer. this will give you a 2mm narrower track. but if your using the s.d narrow arms you may need the spacers beacause the turn in may be too agressive plus increased tyre wear. i got gave this information with my car.
and thanks for the information ALI gave me, i will try it out.
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Old 03-28-2007, 01:39 PM   #7024
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Default 0 degree toe

hey fellow Yok racers
Just a quick question, is there a way to get 0 degree rear toe.
I'm pretty sure Yok doesn't make a 0 deg rear aluminum block.

Currently using the plastic 1 degree SD block.

any help is appreciated.
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Old 03-28-2007, 01:48 PM   #7025
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yeap by using the 2 degrees rear block and 1 degree rear hubs the left-right and vice versa!!
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Old 03-28-2007, 01:52 PM   #7026
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Default ok

OK...thanks...
but maybe a bit confused with the answer...
2 degree rear toe block
minus
1 degree rear uprights (reversed)
equals
1 degree

am I correct or is it
when the 1deg rear upright is reversed it equal 2deg total angle.
i'm trying to get a total of 0 degree rear toe.
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Old 03-28-2007, 02:21 PM   #7027
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use a 1 suspension mount and 1 hubs switched from left to right. then you'll have 0
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Old 03-28-2007, 02:23 PM   #7028
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Hey OL,

why do you want a zero toe? Your car ran pretty good, if you are pushing at entering switch back, try add a little bit more droop in the rear to have more weight transfer to the front, and maybe laydown the front end shock 1 more hole.

~Ming
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Old 03-28-2007, 02:49 PM   #7029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer
use a 1 suspension mount and 1 hubs switched from left to right. then you'll have 0
wouldn't that give you .5 of top no 0 ?

i was think a 1 deg block and 2deg block reversed ( right on the left and left on the right...) buy i may be worng ....
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Old 03-28-2007, 02:51 PM   #7030
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im not sure if this would work but you could see if the one pice Rear Front mount will fit on the Rear?

new thigs to play with when i get home from work ........... yahhhh
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Old 03-28-2007, 03:58 PM   #7031
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Default front block

i just measured the
front rear block
=47.50 mm approx
rear outer block
= 51.mm approx
darn it, that won't work.

guess i'm going to have try a few things also...

Aozip..the car was running great on foams this past weekend...
but if I dived into a corner way to hot the back would want to slip out just slightly. So almost got it set up right.
plus i want max speed on the straight, the 0 deg should give me just a bit more.
Chasing that perfect setup now...

ohh..by the way for everyone trying to get the ride adjustment easier..try using Associated shock ends with the steel pivot balls
Part #: 7217
this works perfectly, I can now run 54mm to 59mm foams without having to worry about ride height adjustment. I'm getting 2 to 6 ride height.

Pro-Yokomo ....

Last edited by olhipster1; 03-28-2007 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:44 PM   #7032
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Default Drive shafts

Hi i have a set of hardend drive shafts but no packet any idea how i tell if these are front or rear?

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Old 03-29-2007, 01:48 PM   #7033
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The axle lengths are different between front and rear driveshafts. Longer for the rear.
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:50 PM   #7034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan D
The axle lengths are different between front and rear driveshafts. Longer for the rear.

do you know what the lengths are?

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Old 03-29-2007, 02:10 PM   #7035
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Guys anyone know if any eshop has dogbones for TIR cvds for BD??
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