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Old 03-22-2007, 12:30 PM   #6991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer
Hi guys.

Last sunday I was testing around with all that rebound stuff. On medium grip carpet I found 0 rebound beeing the best but I had problems building the dampers with 0 rebound.

I moved away some material from the damper cap to prevent it from pressing against the diaphragm to hard and cause of this generating unwanted rebound. but there has to be an other way to build the shocks with 0 rebound.

anyone having ideas?

I'll post pics of the dampercaps after this weekend.
Hi Martin

In order to build Yokomo shocks with no rebound you must drill a small hole in the cap. With no hole you will always get some rebound due to the piston being close to the diaphragm.
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Old 03-22-2007, 05:37 PM   #6992
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John Pape ygpm question for ya
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Old 03-22-2007, 08:37 PM   #6993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Pape
OK, as promised, pictures of Chris's car with the CGM steering modification.









Some quick intructions on how to do this mod:
You will first need the CGM bellcranks, part no SD202G, cut the smaller side off.
Insert the bearings at each end (kit bearings) and screw the ackerman plate to each of them making sure that they face in towards the centre of the car.
Using the standard Yokomo castor blocks and steering spindles you will need to have the balljoint in the 2 hole from the back on the ackerman plate.
Put the completed assembly on the car, place the 0.5mm spacer on top following by another 0.25 spacer and then the blue spacer that normally goes underneath.
Screw the top deck on, job done.

Remember to check toe in.

it seems with this cgm modification, the belt is rubbing the bellcrank slightly. so do we just ignore it?
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Old 03-23-2007, 02:43 AM   #6994
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you can shave of some tenth of material of the left belkrank, then there's nothing rubbing

Thanks for the tip john, I found another way of beeing able to build damperes with no rebound. I removed material from the damper cap so that it's not pushing against the diaphragm. this is how the hb dampers work.

You have a pic where you drilled the hole`?

Martin.
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Old 03-23-2007, 07:27 AM   #6995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Pape
OK, as promised, pictures of Chris's car with the CGM steering modification.









Some quick intructions on how to do this mod:
You will first need the CGM bellcranks, part no SD202G, cut the smaller side off.
Insert the bearings at each end (kit bearings) and screw the ackerman plate to each of them making sure that they face in towards the centre of the car.
Using the standard Yokomo castor blocks and steering spindles you will need to have the balljoint in the 2 hole from the back on the ackerman plate.
Put the completed assembly on the car, place the 0.5mm spacer on top following by another 0.25 spacer and then the blue spacer that normally goes underneath.
Screw the top deck on, job done.

Remember to check toe in.

Top Job John

Sorry for delay everyone, my pc was playing up and I could not get the photos...

Any questions..???

Chris
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Old 03-23-2007, 08:50 AM   #6996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC
Not a speedy responce... sorry

the part # for the new sway bars are
sd-412fs (front)
sd-412rs (rear)

Chris, are these roll bars available in the UK yet?

Also i have just got another BD (third one now) after driving an xray for most of the winter.

Got to get it prepared for the nationals, is there anything specific besides the CGM steering that i should look at getting.

Its a Grainger Edition hopped up to Masami edition.

thanks a lot
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:39 AM   #6997
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Hey Chris

What is changing to the CGM steering crank for??
I have read a few people changing the front c-hubs and knuckles to hpi/protype version. What is the current steering on your car and what would you run outside.
Did here also that people running HPI/protype c-hub with a normal Yokomo knuckle. I did try this but when measured up the top ballstud was 2mm lower than standard.

Thanks
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Old 03-23-2007, 10:04 AM   #6998
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I'm not chris but I think I can answer this one too.

the cgm steering mod enables you to use more lock, which has always been a problem on the bd.

I have testet the cgm steering with hb parts and with the yok parts.

the yok parts do have a bit more steering, the hb parts are a bit easier to drive.
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Old 03-23-2007, 10:42 AM   #6999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BJ
Hey Chris

What is changing to the CGM steering crank for??
I have read a few people changing the front c-hubs and knuckles to hpi/protype version. What is the current steering on your car and what would you run outside.
Did here also that people running HPI/protype c-hub with a normal Yokomo knuckle. I did try this but when measured up the top ballstud was 2mm lower than standard.

Thanks
Hi Guys

Martin is right in what he says about more lock from the cgm parts, but they are best used with MR4 TC caster blocks. If you use std caster blocks then the CGM parts will make no real difference, I will explain why

with the std Caster blocks you don't get enough lock, that's why we tried using MR4 caster blocks, but even with these or filling the std ones, you still don't get enough lock because the alloy blue arms hit the rack.. Running the CGM parts fixes this, so with the CGM parts run MR4 TC blocks or file the std ones, I feel you want about 25 degrees on the inside front wheel


New roll bars are available from Yokomo and Yokomo USA but I don't think CML have had there delivery yet..

The Picture John posted is my car as it stands now, ready for the new Season, so as a picture tells a thousand words, you can pretty much see how I'm running it

Chris
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Old 03-23-2007, 11:43 AM   #7000
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25 degrees steering lock! How long does your spool last??
As the car comes I can get 24 degrees lock but always end up turning it down to around 20 - 22 degrees, but then again I run 19T.
Do you think it's the difference in amount push a mod motor gives over a 19T that you need that more steering??
Or are you looking for more angle on the outside wheel.
Chris. when your driving your car what does it feel like it's doing/not doing?
Mine likes to push on power exit of corners, if I change the car to overcome this then I have to much coming into a corner off power.
It would be interesting to get an in sight of what you think is happening with your car or what you would like more of.

Thanks for all you input and coming on here
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Old 03-23-2007, 11:45 AM   #7001
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I even have about 30+ degrees. helps a lot with spool.
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Old 03-23-2007, 02:01 PM   #7002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer
you can shave of some tenth of material of the left belkrank, then there's nothing rubbing

Thanks for the tip john, I found another way of beeing able to build damperes with no rebound. I removed material from the damper cap so that it's not pushing against the diaphragm. this is how the hb dampers work.

You have a pic where you drilled the hole`?

Martin.
I will take one for you martin.
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Old 03-23-2007, 02:58 PM   #7003
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it'S ok. drilled a hole in there now.

works fine and it's less work than my way of doing 0 rebound dampers :-)
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Old 03-23-2007, 07:11 PM   #7004
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chris, is there any chance you could post your carpet wars setup thanks.
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Old 03-25-2007, 02:26 PM   #7005
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hi, can you compare BD with LCG, i don't know which buy, LCG is cheaper than BD, bud i need know, which have better future, thx
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