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Old 01-17-2007, 12:34 AM   #6706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH
you could try mine. its probably not the best but it works for me so far...

Front:
0.5 front-rear toe suspension pin mount
0 toe front
2mm shims under both front suspension pin mounts
2mm shim on the front camber link (bulkhead)
front shock mounted on 2nd outermost hole
steering links mounted on the 2nd to the front-most hole

REAR
2 deg rear-rear toe suspension pin mount
no shims under the suspension pin mounts
0.5 deg toe rear hub carriers (placed on the wrong sides for less toe)
2mm shim on the rear camber link (bulkhead)
rear shock mounted on the 2nd outermost hole (BD shock tower, not the BDM one)

2deg camber on all wheels
shock lengh: 62mm
droop: 7f/5r (using Hudy droop blocks)
stock front and rear swaybars
30Wt oil all around (box stock internals)
Paragon FXII compound
Sorex 36R with Speedmind TypeB medium insterts
2 x 4mm holes punched in the wheels

for Power
IB4200WC 6-cell
Novak GTX
Team Express Co27

if and when you do try it, lemme know what you think... i'm still working on the set-up and would appreciate any feedback, comments.

jason: what springs are you using on your front and rear shocks???
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:42 AM   #6707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tantalus007
jason: what springs are you using on your front and rear shocks???
hi weinner. not sure since i got the kit 2nd hand. they're white but without the color-coded mark. i'm assuming they're the box stock white springs that came with the earlier BD's.
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Old 01-17-2007, 01:21 AM   #6708
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THE SPRINGS ARE DIFFERENT COLOURS ACCORDING TO THEIR SPRING RATING.
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Old 01-17-2007, 01:35 AM   #6709
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YOKOMO SPRINGS (SOFT TO HARD), (SHORT)
BLACK, WHITE, BLUE, YELLOW, PINK, STAINLESS, GREEN, ORANGE.
RAYSPEED SPRINGS (SOFT TO HARD) (LONG)
GREEN, BLUE,YELLOW, WHITE, RED, GRAY.
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Old 01-17-2007, 02:12 AM   #6710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH
hi weinner. not sure since i got the kit 2nd hand. they're white but without the color-coded mark. i'm assuming they're the box stock white springs that came with the earlier BD's.
i believe they're rayspeed white springs... those were the stock springs that came with the regular BD's...
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Old 01-17-2007, 03:10 AM   #6711
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great! thanks. so if they're of the rayspeed variety that would put them in the medium/hard side.

i'll try to look for slightly softer springs... thanks!
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Old 01-17-2007, 03:37 AM   #6712
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THE BD THAT I VE GOT CAME STOCK WITH RAYSPEED SPRINGS STANDARD WITH WHITE ON THE FRONT AND BLUE ON THE REAR.
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:03 AM   #6713
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if you want to use rayspeed springs I'd regard using blue/green with rubber tires. works fine on 95% of all tracks.
I use Yokomo new-style green/pink on all tracks. Like the feel of those.
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Old 01-17-2007, 10:27 AM   #6714
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HELP!!! I have just got a used BD, but I have some issues. I'm running CS27 tires, but the front ones, it seems there is not enough of clearance in diameter, as the front endge of the A-arms keep rubbing against the wheels and doesnt let the steering work properly, as it binds. No such issue at rear. When I put in foam tires, there is ample size wheel diameter and thus no binding...how are you guys running rubber tires on this car without the wheel and A-arm rubbing or binding?
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Old 01-17-2007, 10:35 AM   #6715
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it has to do the the type of wheel you are using, the a arm is hitting on the ribs of the wheel. either change wheels, grind down the ribs and little, or use a tamiya wheel spacer to move the wheel out, you could cut the little "bar" off the a arm but thats there for a reason.

of course i am assuming its the ribs on the wheel that is the problem as i had the same issue once.
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Old 01-17-2007, 10:40 AM   #6716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH
you could try mine. its probably not the best but it works for me so far...

Front:
0.5 front-rear toe suspension pin mount
0 toe front
2mm shims under both front suspension pin mounts
2mm shim on the front camber link (bulkhead)
front shock mounted on 2nd outermost hole
steering links mounted on the 2nd to the front-most hole

REAR
2 deg rear-rear toe suspension pin mount
no shims under the suspension pin mounts
0.5 deg toe rear hub carriers (placed on the wrong sides for less toe)
2mm shim on the rear camber link (bulkhead)
rear shock mounted on the 2nd outermost hole (BD shock tower, not the BDM one)

2deg camber on all wheels
shock lengh: 62mm
droop: 7f/5r (using Hudy droop blocks)
stock front and rear swaybars
30Wt oil all around (box stock internals)
Paragon FXII compound
Sorex 36R with Speedmind TypeB medium insterts
2 x 4mm holes punched in the wheels

for Power
IB4200WC 6-cell
Novak GTX
Team Express Co27

if and when you do try it, lemme know what you think... i'm still working on the set-up and would appreciate any feedback, comments.

for slippery tracks you may want to try removing the front upper camber links spacers, more angle equals more steering, move the shocks in one hole

on the rear i would use more rear toe, try 2.5 block and put the .5 hubs on the correct side, and try the speedmind premounted 28's or 32's sorex tires.

also with 2mm spacers under the front and none under the rear thats a drastic roll center difference front and rear, i would try at least a 1mm under the rear blocks.
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Old 01-17-2007, 01:54 PM   #6717
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iv just aquired a mr4tc-bd does anyone have a indoor carpet with foam tyres setup
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Old 01-17-2007, 03:35 PM   #6718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
HELP!!! I have just got a used BD, but I have some issues. I'm running CS27 tires, but the front ones, it seems there is not enough of clearance in diameter, as the front endge of the A-arms keep rubbing against the wheels and doesnt let the steering work properly, as it binds. No such issue at rear. When I put in foam tires, there is ample size wheel diameter and thus no binding...how are you guys running rubber tires on this car without the wheel and A-arm rubbing or binding?
Makre sure the c-hub is mounted on the upper hole in the A-arm.
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Old 01-17-2007, 03:41 PM   #6719
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try wheel spacers
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Old 01-17-2007, 05:20 PM   #6720
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question for BD & 3.5R runners

any excessive wear on the ff. drivetrain items:

1. rear diff plastic outdrives
2. front steel 1-way outdrives
3. cvd joints (the rebuildable part with the pins and grub screws)?

should i replace the stock parts on my BD with any available stronger parts or will they hold up to 3.5R power?

also, anyone know if yokomo (or other aftermarket brands) offer diff/cvd systems similar to xray, cyclone, rdx, or msx? the one's with plastic pads on the ends to prevent excessive diff wear?

thanks in advance for any info
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