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Old 01-09-2007, 09:48 AM   #6676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fpart
I tested the front inner toe blocks. I just did it one time and it was OK but didn't improve my lap times so I went back. I am running indoors carpet right now and think that the blocks are not good for carpet. What springs are you talking about the white ones or something newer. If the white ones are what you are referring to, I use them almost exclusively(except carpet) orange paint up front and green paint rear most of the time with a spool outdoors.
Hall÷!
I have the white ones "pro series spring" in front orange and rear pink sometimes i run rayspeed white front and blue in the rear . I improved my lap times widh toe-in blocks 0,5 and a one-way
aboute the PR i have hade no problem sins i puttit in the bumper but when i hade it on the side some crashes make it go lose
DHI CUP 3 days away!!!!!!!!!!
Have tested MUCH-MORE tires but i like LRP better
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Old 01-09-2007, 12:20 PM   #6677
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I use Yokomo New-Style greens up front and pinks in the rear almost exclusively. Outdoor and indoor.
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Old 01-10-2007, 08:46 AM   #6678
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Could anyone explain what the effects would be if i remove the 1mm alum shimms underneath the alum suspension mounts... also what if i remove the shimms on the rear susp mounts only and vice versa???

thanks in advance...
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Old 01-10-2007, 01:15 PM   #6679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tantalus007
Could anyone explain what the effects would be if i remove the 1mm alum shimms underneath the alum suspension mounts... also what if i remove the shimms on the rear susp mounts only and vice versa???

thanks in advance...
put it simple without getting confusing & tricky

1)If removed it acts like a Citreon 2cv (low roll centre), this is good for old racers with slow reactions
good in low grip situ`s ,where you get car to generate more grip then whats on offer



2)If left in acts like a F1 car (high roll centre ) this is good for youg racers with fast reactions
Good for high grip conditions ,makes car react quicker to driver input & get round faster

HTH

(Hii John !! chris`s side kick
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Old 01-10-2007, 02:43 PM   #6680
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You're backwards Jolly

Lower rollcentres will take away grip by generating less chassis roll (IE removing the spacer, chassis roll like an F1 car).

High rollcentres will generate grip by allowing the chassis to roll more (IE adding a spacer, chassis roll like a Shitroen 2CV).

Edit: im reffering to the spacer under the inner ballstud.
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Old 01-10-2007, 02:57 PM   #6681
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Guys are you talking about removing all the four spacers or only the two of them??
i mean lowering both rear/front suspension mounts or only the one??

thanks
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Old 01-10-2007, 06:35 PM   #6682
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Guys,
Ive been looking aroundfor some parts recently and noticinng that some places includin my LHS are very low.

Has anyone heard any more about the rumor of a REvised BD
Any one care to fill us in?


Cheers
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Old 01-11-2007, 01:23 AM   #6683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v0rtex
You're backwards Jolly

Lower rollcentres will take away grip by generating less chassis roll (IE removing the spacer, chassis roll like an F1 car).

High rollcentres will generate grip by allowing the chassis to roll more (IE adding a spacer, chassis roll like a Shitroen 2CV).

Edit: im reffering to the spacer under the inner ballstud.
Edit
Im talking about the wishbone blocks
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Old 01-11-2007, 01:32 AM   #6684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharopoulos
Guys are you talking about removing all the four spacers or only the two of them??
i mean lowering both rear/front suspension mounts or only the one??

thanks
Vortex is doing the ballstud way

i am talking about your way (wishbone blocks)
all four in front & rear

Side note
chris grainger has pointed out
you should run 1mm spacer under front blocks only to make roll centre the same back & front of car (get me)

at the mo i`m running Russell williams setup for rubber/carpet and that has
2mm under front blocks ,1mm under rear blocks




Some guys it says it feels a little Vague in the corners
bit i`m getting used to it my self & it seems to suit my Shakes i have ,mainley the car stays behaved longer & it seems easier to drive for me & settled for my own troublsome shakes i have
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Old 01-11-2007, 03:38 AM   #6685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
at the mo i`m running Russell williams setup for rubber/carpet and that has
2mm under front blocks ,1mm under rear blocks
Not to mention the 2mm under the front inner camberlinks, that would be too twitchy wouldnt it?
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Old 01-11-2007, 07:02 AM   #6686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v0rtex
Not to mention the 2mm under the front inner camberlinks, that would be too twitchy wouldnt it?
Foor some reason it isn`t (to me anyway) & it works ,this is with std chassis
since i have the Demon 3mm one it works okay
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Old 01-11-2007, 08:28 AM   #6687
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Default front steering block plastic/graphite

Is anyone having problems with the front steering block breaking I have been running my car for a while, and if I dare hit, bump, touch something its guaranteed that the front steering block broke and the king pin is some where on the track. I have been through numerous SD-415 and king pins, other than not hitting anything any suggestions.
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Old 01-11-2007, 08:36 AM   #6688
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it sometimes happens to me that my car chrashes i n the wall at full speed but nothing ever broke
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Old 01-11-2007, 09:40 AM   #6689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne1one
Is anyone having problems with the front steering block breaking I have been running my car for a while, and if I dare hit, bump, touch something its guaranteed that the front steering block broke and the king pin is some where on the track. I have been through numerous SD-415 and king pins, other than not hitting anything any suggestions.
is the steering block actuall breaking for is the king pin striping out....

if the upper kingpini is pulling out, try part # sd-414kb ( king pin from the LCG) it has a more threads on it compard to part # sd-414k ( stander kingpin on the BD) you may have to grind off a few threads off

If the lower king pin is pulling out.. there is a newer king pin that used a spacer and a 3mm screw. part # sd-414TA ( i think but im not really postive, i have the part # at home)
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Old 01-11-2007, 09:43 AM   #6690
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This is the correct part number!! is the one with the titanium collar and screw!!
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