Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Yokomo MR4TC-BD

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-20-2006, 08:35 PM
  #6601  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (120)
 
JasonC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: oceanside ca
Posts: 4,099
Trader Rating: 120 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Zacharopoulos
Anyone tried team bomber's Spool?? What's your opinion in comparison with TIR's spool and the new yokomo???

thanks
Rumor has it yokmo has releaed an alum spool, when confirmed i will post a pica and part #
JasonC is offline  
Old 12-20-2006, 09:20 PM
  #6602  
Tech Master
 
Martin Hofer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Germany
Posts: 1,083
Default

BD-501SAA

Look a couple pages back (about 20), there is a photo of the spool
Martin Hofer is offline  
Old 12-24-2006, 01:09 PM
  #6603  
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cow Town
Posts: 1,746
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default 3rd BD in cow town

Congrats to - Outtafocus - on your Yoki purchase!!

Another BD in a sea of Xrays You're gonna love it!
pcar951 is offline  
Old 12-24-2006, 10:07 PM
  #6604  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
 
outtafocus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Calgary
Posts: 599
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Thank you Jim, I am super excited to get that BD in hand.

We Yokomo guys must stick together!!!!
outtafocus is offline  
Old 12-25-2006, 12:57 AM
  #6605  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
 
lem2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: OC
Posts: 3,061
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by outtafocus
. . . . . . . . .

We Yokomo guys must stick together!!!!
Amen!!!!!

Merry Christmas to all the Yoke Pips!!!!!
lem2 is offline  
Old 12-27-2006, 02:52 PM
  #6606  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Greece , Athens
Posts: 450
Default

Guys you think that JET RACING alloy C hubs for cyclone will fit Yokomo BD???
i want to change castor and yokomo only has 4 degrees castor!!
Zacharopoulos is offline  
Old 12-27-2006, 02:54 PM
  #6607  
Tech Master
 
Martin Hofer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Germany
Posts: 1,083
Default

don't use alloy, plastic is better

and what i wrong with the 4° C-Hubs? Every car uses 4° as this is the best.
Martin Hofer is offline  
Old 12-27-2006, 02:57 PM
  #6608  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Greece , Athens
Posts: 450
Default

i don't like alloy but it is the only chance to change castor!!

i know that , but i would like to change it , in my previous car it really helped me this change
Zacharopoulos is offline  
Old 12-27-2006, 03:38 PM
  #6609  
Tech Master
 
Martin Hofer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Germany
Posts: 1,083
Default

nope it is not

from yoke there are Hubs from the old mr-4 tc availbale from 3 - 7° of caster

but 4 works very well, to me there's no need to change anything
Martin Hofer is offline  
Old 12-27-2006, 03:41 PM
  #6610  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Greece , Athens
Posts: 450
Default

ok thanks man
Zacharopoulos is offline  
Old 12-28-2006, 03:09 AM
  #6611  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Posts: 83
Default

Tightening the lower king pin to the standard steering hub is a bit tricky on the BD. Some of the guys at our club regularly overtighten them and strip the threads out of the steering hubs. Some (like me) are more careful when tightening the king pin and all too often end up looking for them around the track.

Any best practises you would like to share (other than aluminum steering hubs)?
How to do it right?
jarkko is offline  
Old 12-28-2006, 04:20 AM
  #6612  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
 
lignum vitae's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 317
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jarkko
Tightening the lower king pin to the standard steering hub is a bit tricky on the BD. Some of the guys at our club regularly overtighten them and strip the threads out of the steering hubs. Some (like me) are more careful when tightening the king pin and all too often end up looking for them around the track.

Any best practises you would like to share (other than aluminum steering hubs)?
How to do it right?
before you assemble screw in screw with downward pressure to cut clean thread. then with a pin wipe a little supaglue around cut thread allow to dry then assemble,each time you pull apart repeat supaglue process.
lignum vitae is offline  
Old 12-28-2006, 04:59 AM
  #6613  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 534
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default King pins

sounds simple enough, but i just cut a thin strip of tape to go over the bottom king pin, from inside the c hub, and finish between the out side, "rarle used" lower hole and the actual lower arm. Had a pin completly stripout the steering knuckle, and it stay in perfectly cos i dint notice unitl i was doing my regular maintanence after the meet.
Simple and cheap

Cheers

Simon
Q: anyone got the aluminium diff halves yet? any one seen a price?
Bluey_74 is offline  
Old 12-28-2006, 05:26 AM
  #6614  
Tech Elite
 
MR JOLLY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MOOD;; feeling good not racing ,saving shed loads of money,lovely Tan i have aswell
Posts: 4,762
Default

Originally Posted by jarkko
Tightening the lower king pin to the standard steering hub is a bit tricky on the BD. Some of the guys at our club regularly overtighten them and strip the threads out of the steering hubs. Some (like me) are more careful when tightening the king pin and all too often end up looking for them around the track.

Any best practises you would like to share (other than aluminum steering hubs)?
How to do it right?
leave out the black spacer that goes with the lower kingpin
MR JOLLY is offline  
Old 12-28-2006, 09:51 AM
  #6615  
Tech Champion
 
asw7576's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,792
Default

This is my style of doing it. .... you don't have to copy mine.

Lets say when your steering knuckles are still brand new, I use dremel and drill the kingpin hole until the drill bit went through. Find a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the kingpin's hole. After drilling, I blow the burrs, and I give a drop of super glue inside the holes. Let it dry for 10 minutes.

Before you tighten the screw, drop thin silicone oil into the hole and screw it. Use your feeling, when the screw is stop then, it means stop. You can use longer screw like 3x10mm now. Don't use 3x12mm screws because it will hit the CVD. BTW, you need flange tube ( from Xray ) in replacement from original yokomo kingpin screws.

Last edited by asw7576; 12-28-2006 at 10:02 AM.
asw7576 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.