Yokomo MR4TC-BD
#6571
Originally Posted by v0rtex
Whats the exact effect of leaving out the foam volume compensator? Will that make the suspension softer or harder, or does it affect the rebound?
I'll be trying the car out that way tomorrow and will let you guys know the results.
Hey JOLLY. Less of the old dogs and old women
#6572
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by Turtlemaster
while there are three different part numbers, two of the chassis are basically the same, (no cut outs behind the front bumper on one) so you have a standard chassis and a "hard" chassis to chose from. for low traction i would say the standard chassis best.
I just want to clarify on what Turtlemaster has posted... is he saying that the chassis with the Part No. BD-002MG would best suit asphalt tracks that have low traction???
One more thing, i i want more steering specifically more turn-in from my BD, what changes in setup do i have to make or parts would i have to change??? If i'd use the front suspension mount part # sd-300f10 1 deg, will that help me achieve more turn in???
#6573
try hb parts or Yoki K4 C-Hubs ZS-4134 in combination with SD-202G parts in the steering. This will give you much more steering throw and therefore´give you much more steering.
the toe-out parts tend to give more steering especially in mid corner
the toe-out parts tend to give more steering especially in mid corner
#6574
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer
try hb parts or Yoki K4 C-Hubs ZS-4134 in combination with SD-202G parts in the steering. This will give you much more steering throw and therefore´give you much more steering.
the toe-out parts tend to give more steering especially in mid corner
the toe-out parts tend to give more steering especially in mid corner
first of all thanks for the reply...
for what specific Yokomo car do the C-Hubs ZS-4134 come with??? Do i have to do any modifications or grinding when I install them to my BD???
also, has anybody tried what Chris Grainger advised a few pages back on using a 2.5 deg. rear suspension mount and 0.5 degree rear hub carrier to achieve more steering??? can you really get more steering from changing those parts even when they're at the rear end of the car???
#6575
the c-hubs are from the old mr-4 tc car (in germany called K4). They are narrower than the kit hubs an ind combination with the steering parts from the cgm you have much more steering throw
#6576
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer
the c-hubs are from the old mr-4 tc car (in germany called K4). They are narrower than the kit hubs an ind combination with the steering parts from the cgm you have much more steering throw
#6577
I have not tested it so I can't give you advice
#6578
Tech Elite
Originally Posted by tantalus007
thanks again for the reply... i just hope somebody could reply to the inquiries regarding on making changes in th rear...
#6579
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
rear toe
I agree..if you need to run under 2 degree rear toe try the SD plastic blocks they work rather well not as bling as the blue aluminum but will do the job.
I use to run 1 degree in the rear and the car exits the corner great.
Need some setup info:
I'll be trying the SDW arms any setup tips for them. Shave the insides down of course and the track width in the front is about 2mm shorter than with standard arms.
I will say the shock position looks great, two holes right in between the standard arms shock holes this solves a ton of problems with running foam tires.
I use to run 1 degree in the rear and the car exits the corner great.
Need some setup info:
I'll be trying the SDW arms any setup tips for them. Shave the insides down of course and the track width in the front is about 2mm shorter than with standard arms.
I will say the shock position looks great, two holes right in between the standard arms shock holes this solves a ton of problems with running foam tires.
#6580
Tech Rookie
bd
how much. pics?
#6581
REAR TOE> For mod we run a bit more toe, simply because we can afford the loss in straight line speed. We run the 2 degree block with 0 degree (stock) hubs for 19 turn. For nod weuse 2.5. We get 2.5 in one of 2 ways. Either with 2 degree block and 1/2 degree hubs as Chris G suggests, or with 3 degree block and 1/2 degree hubs fitted on the wrong sides (left on right side etc). We find this one works OK.
FRONT C HUBS> Use AE TC3 (not TC4) front hubs and bushes. They are almost s asraight fit. We run the 4 degree hubs with some anti dive on the arms (2mm rear and 1mm washers front - on front arms).
Plan to try lots of different things today. Will let you guys know results.
FRONT C HUBS> Use AE TC3 (not TC4) front hubs and bushes. They are almost s asraight fit. We run the 4 degree hubs with some anti dive on the arms (2mm rear and 1mm washers front - on front arms).
Plan to try lots of different things today. Will let you guys know results.
#6582
Tech Elite
thanks johnbull, in all experiments i keep forgetting about moving the arms around.
#6583
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
I'm about to fit a set of "worlds" arms to the from of my car. Can anybody tell me what I can expect besides a little more turn in? Anything else I should do to make the most of the change. The car has been great with graphite arms, just trying to get a little more corner speed. thanks
#6584
Tech Elite
iTrader: (120)
Originally Posted by pcar951
I'm about to fit a set of "worlds" arms to the from of my car. Can anybody tell me what I can expect besides a little more turn in? Anything else I should do to make the most of the change. The car has been great with graphite arms, just trying to get a little more corner speed. thanks
#6585
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
I'm running diff/diff with foams on carpet but thanks for the tip anyhow. I'll probably be changing back to graphite arms. The "W" arms seem to make the car a little inconsistent in the corners, may be too much flex with the plastic. I lost nearly a full lap from last week. bummer