pheyhoe

I saw people using them with no success.

I meant i just bought some standard ones and rounded the grub screw.

Its a bitch when you have bought something that should in theory be better and its not

Racingbod85

mine too.outdrives and plates in the bin but wasn't shelling out £12 on new diff balls when these were 10mins old!

pheyhoe

Did you run your diff in? I didnt have time and when i went out it was like drifting for half the race, even though off the ground the diff spun freely and was not slipping. :S

MR JOLLY

tell you what i did hear @carpetwars quite few slipping diffs
the screeching sound was quite often heard down in the lower ranks of driving
maybe properly adjusted diffs are the way to go
never had a problem even with the Diff Bolt that some have said about

pheyhoe

I think the reason mine went is becasue i built the diff when i got the car, ran 19 all the time and about a year later i ran a 3.5 and thats why it ended up being a goey mess. :P The new one runs perfect now

Racingbod85

Nah! original had about 8mins practise and died with about minute left of 1st heat-due to thinking 'that slippings ok'! was sliding everywhere before hand. new one i did right up and was fine all day and much better to drive. having jumped from stock to 4.5 i'm finding the transition a little difficult!don't generally drive with a one way either - had major issues slowing down for corners effectively!took over a second off my best lap throughout the day though so thats encouraging!

lignum vitae

iTrader: (7)

i dont mean tamiya loctite if your game buy some genuine loctite super wickin, the main problem then will be you will need a blow torch to heat it up so you can undo it.

tcfree

..

tcfree

Yeah that works well, but if when u build um up u just ,rive, on the grub as hard as u can u shud have no problems ther after.

outtafocus

iTrader: (12)

I have a pair of Yokomo threaded body shocks which have the black plastic cap.
These shocks seem to have a different o-ring set up and also the pistons I have in my SD kit fit very loosely in the body (kinda like parking a bicycle in an airplane hanger).
Does any one know if these shock bodies require a different piston setup?

Also, on the YokomoUSA website in the setup sheets section, shock length is listed as 64mm/66mm F/R. Is this length measurement taken from the top of the upper eyelet to the bottom of the lower eyelet, or is it middle of hole to middle of hole?
Thanks

lignum vitae

iTrader: (7)

more adjustment is never a bad thing.

adyb

The shocks sounds like you have the GT4 ones, do they also have a little bleed screw at the top? If so they will be fine with the orignal piston setup. I don't think the pistons will be as a tight fit like the rayspeed ones for example. One thing good about these shocks once you have built them you never need to check the rebound again
Total shock length is overall i.e. include plastic above and below eyelets.

HTH

MR JOLLY

it is i`ll be even more confused

lignum vitae

iTrader: (7)

comes std in masami kit.

outtafocus

iTrader: (12)

Thanks adyb, yes those cap do have the bleeder screw.

What is the effect on handling using the long shock ends vs. the short shock ends?

If any one is selling a MR4TC BD in decent shape please PM me, Thanks.