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Old 11-29-2006, 07:17 AM   #6406
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I saw people using them with no success.

I meant i just bought some standard ones and rounded the grub screw.

Its a bitch when you have bought something that should in theory be better and its not
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Old 11-29-2006, 07:51 AM   #6407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pheyhoe
I just gave up and bought a full new diff. lol.

The rings were molded into the outdrives too. The new one i built is nice and tight so it should not happen again
mine too.outdrives and plates in the bin but wasn't shelling out 12 on new diff balls when these were 10mins old!
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Old 11-29-2006, 09:10 AM   #6408
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Did you run your diff in? I didnt have time and when i went out it was like drifting for half the race, even though off the ground the diff spun freely and was not slipping. :S
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Old 11-29-2006, 09:33 AM   #6409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pheyhoe
Did you run your diff in? I didnt have time and when i went out it was like drifting for half the race, even though off the ground the diff spun freely and was not slipping. :S
tell you what i did hear @carpetwars quite few slipping diffs
the screeching sound was quite often heard down in the lower ranks of driving
maybe properly adjusted diffs are the way to go
never had a problem even with the Diff Bolt that some have said about
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Old 11-29-2006, 09:45 AM   #6410
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I think the reason mine went is becasue i built the diff when i got the car, ran 19 all the time and about a year later i ran a 3.5 and thats why it ended up being a goey mess. :P The new one runs perfect now
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Old 11-29-2006, 10:34 AM   #6411
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Nah! original had about 8mins practise and died with about minute left of 1st heat-due to thinking 'that slippings ok'! was sliding everywhere before hand. new one i did right up and was fine all day and much better to drive. having jumped from stock to 4.5 i'm finding the transition a little difficult!don't generally drive with a one way either - had major issues slowing down for corners effectively!took over a second off my best lap throughout the day though so thats encouraging!
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Old 11-29-2006, 02:00 PM   #6412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarkko
We have a problem with newly installed Yokomo hardened universals.

The thinner pin in the joint (rear wheel) keeps coming out al the time.

I wonder if other people have had the same happen.

Can anyone suggest a fix to this? I would hate to just discard new, rather expensive and hard to get parts.
i dont mean tamiya loctite if your game buy some genuine loctite super wickin, the main problem then will be you will need a blow torch to heat it up so you can undo it.
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Old 11-29-2006, 02:11 PM   #6413
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Old 11-29-2006, 02:11 PM   #6414
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Yeah that works well, but if when u build um up u just ,rive, on the grub as hard as u can u shud have no problems ther after.
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Old 11-29-2006, 04:56 PM   #6415
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I have a pair of Yokomo threaded body shocks which have the black plastic cap.
These shocks seem to have a different o-ring set up and also the pistons I have in my SD kit fit very loosely in the body (kinda like parking a bicycle in an airplane hanger).
Does any one know if these shock bodies require a different piston setup?

Also, on the YokomoUSA website in the setup sheets section, shock length is listed as 64mm/66mm F/R. Is this length measurement taken from the top of the upper eyelet to the bottom of the lower eyelet, or is it middle of hole to middle of hole?
Thanks
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Old 11-29-2006, 09:08 PM   #6416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
Are the Bomber shock towers worth getting (the one with loads of muti holes on )
more adjustment is never a bad thing.
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Old 11-30-2006, 07:13 AM   #6417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outtafocus
I have a pair of Yokomo threaded body shocks which have the black plastic cap.
These shocks seem to have a different o-ring set up and also the pistons I have in my SD kit fit very loosely in the body (kinda like parking a bicycle in an airplane hanger).
Does any one know if these shock bodies require a different piston setup?

Also, on the YokomoUSA website in the setup sheets section, shock length is listed as 64mm/66mm F/R. Is this length measurement taken from the top of the upper eyelet to the bottom of the lower eyelet, or is it middle of hole to middle of hole?
Thanks
The shocks sounds like you have the GT4 ones, do they also have a little bleed screw at the top? If so they will be fine with the orignal piston setup. I don't think the pistons will be as a tight fit like the rayspeed ones for example. One thing good about these shocks once you have built them you never need to check the rebound again
Total shock length is overall i.e. include plastic above and below eyelets.

HTH
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Old 11-30-2006, 09:25 AM   #6418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lignum vitae
more adjustment is never a bad thing.
it is i`ll be even more confused
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Old 11-30-2006, 03:15 PM   #6419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
it is i`ll be even more confused
comes std in masami kit.
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Old 11-30-2006, 03:29 PM   #6420
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Thanks adyb, yes those cap do have the bleeder screw.

What is the effect on handling using the long shock ends vs. the short shock ends?

If any one is selling a MR4TC BD in decent shape please PM me, Thanks.
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