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Old 11-20-2006, 12:49 AM   #6331
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Oh yep, I actually use that as an adjustment quite often, didn't know thats what it was called though. Thanks!
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Old 11-20-2006, 12:56 AM   #6332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcar951
I've noticed that there seems to be a lot more BD's on tracks in the UK. If so, how is the car doing against the 007?

Everything here is Xray / Cyclone / Tamiya.

Few racers even know what a BD is in this area and have little interest.
They are all popular over here inc MI2 schuy car except the cyclon though

BD wise
guy`s are split over having more lock (hpi stuff on) or the car is allright as is

007 will be seen the car to have coz it`s new (i call new car syndrome) racers all say fantastic, spot on ,so much grip,so much speed
And they are riding on a crest of a wave , then it`s all dies down & becomes just another car & by that time xray will have another car

i know some one who`s thinking of coming back to BD after buying a newer chassis
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Last edited by MR JOLLY; 11-20-2006 at 01:12 AM.
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Old 11-20-2006, 06:53 AM   #6333
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I also came back from Xray to Yoki and I regret nothing.

This car is really the best I have ever had and tried.

On carpet the HB parts are no must have but a nice extra

what I've seen on Masamis car is the combination of ZC-4134 (K4 C-Hubs in 4) and SD-202 (steeringparts from the cgm).

if you cut away some material of the cgm parts you can use them on the bd. cause of beeing longer than the alloy things the ackermann plate moves forward and due to beeing curved you have much more lock to use.

As the K4 C-hubs are narrower this also gives you more lock, but only with the sd-202 parts on.

I ordered these parts right away and will have them tomorrow.
On Saturday I can test them. I guess I will have a lot of fun ^^

Steering is not a problem at all. I have tons of it. More than any car I have ever had before
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Old 11-20-2006, 08:15 AM   #6334
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i'm getting confused about all this "steering lock" talk,

right now i turn the wheel right and left and the steering knuckles hit the hubs.

i understand the part about sanding down the c hubs to get more turn,

but how does moving the pivot ball on the steering link or changing to cgm parts add steering lock, the steering knuckles can only move until they hit the c hub.

unless your talking about the left side turning more when the right side is at lock or vice versa.

please help, (i'm getting old and have forgotten more then i used to know)
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Old 11-20-2006, 08:31 AM   #6335
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Default Steering throw

Moving the pivot ball forward to the outermost ackerman position will not actually change the steering throw but does change the amount of steering angle on one side.

If you look at the Yok BD when the when the wheels are fully turned on a setup gauge one side will appear to be more at an angle than the other (ackerman), so basically the inside wheel will pull the car towards the inner a bit more sharply during a turn.

hope that helps.
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Old 11-20-2006, 08:48 AM   #6336
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Guess I'm missing something too. I have no problem with steering on my BD it turns in hard on and off power (I'm actually dialing out with dual rate).

My adjustments to kick up and roll center were more to get the car to feel the way I want than to address a problem. I have not modified C-hubs or steering rack and certainly have not installed any HPI parts on the car.

When I have a moment, I'll post an accurate and detailed setup sheet and maybe it'll help others. I'm certainly not a setup genius but maybe I've stumbled on something.
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Old 11-20-2006, 09:09 AM   #6337
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here's my last setup. extremely dialed addative applied 50mins before run to rear tires and 15mins before run on half the front tires :-) and it has still tons of steering.

With the HB parts as with the yoki parts.

it's in german so if you have any problems understanding it let me know

carpet, rubber tires, technical track, medium to high grip

http://www.gm-racing.de/webnews/bild...ingen_Modi.pdf
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Old 11-20-2006, 10:24 AM   #6338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtlemaster
i'm getting confused about all this "steering lock" talk,

right now i turn the wheel right and left and the steering knuckles hit the hubs.

i understand the part about sanding down the c hubs to get more turn,

but how does moving the pivot ball on the steering link or changing to cgm parts add steering lock, the steering knuckles can only move until they hit the c hub.

unless your talking about the left side turning more when the right side is at lock or vice versa.

please help, (i'm getting old and have forgotten more then i used to know)
that`s nothing i am old
full lock on my BD is like 26 degrees on the setup gauges , when i go racing in 27t or 19t rubber/carpet & the grip comes up i start to click back the rates on me tranny & i`ll end up around the 80% rate on me 3PK which works out around 15-19 dgree on gauges ,i can still get round hairpins really well aswell

they are after more lock not more grip , coz i believe that you can have the wheel at to much angle it will scrub speed off !! a straighter wheel is a faster car
And like all real life racing cars they don`t have much lock & surely this equates to more corner speed

me perssonaly think if you need more lock to get round corners then your masking a badly setup car by asking the steering to give you all the lock to get round the corners
But if you have proper grip upfront then you don`t need full lock to get round ,this also looks after your tyre`s more because they are not scubbing across the top of the surface thus making them hotter & roughening the tyre suface up
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Old 11-20-2006, 10:40 AM   #6339
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well ... then try a brushlesssystem with 6 cells and you'll quickly find out that 25 is simply not enough
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Old 11-20-2006, 10:41 AM   #6340
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Default what type of gauges

What type of gauges are you using?
I've been using the integy setup station (purple) and with out the ackerman adjustment I was only getting 10 degree of turn.

I'm trying to get the car turn radius to around 15 degree which i think I've got now. Shaving down the Chubs accomplishes two things, 1 = more turn for very tight technical parts of the track (2.5 ft chicanes), 2 = the extra space keeps my servo from getting stressed by letting the steering knuckle hitting the chubs.
just my observation of course.

And yes too much turn radius will scrub of speed and too little turn in throotle speed has to be reduced in order to make the the turn. think setup is not a problem every track needs a different setup.

I'll work on it.
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Old 11-20-2006, 10:56 AM   #6341
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I hate to say this : the axle pin on yokomo CVD is easy to come off ? The pin occasionally ruin the steering knuckle and rear upright.....

I never know it until it already happened

( even I already super glue it ........ the pin will move someday somehow )
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Old 11-20-2006, 11:37 AM   #6342
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Hey Orlando.

I can easily get 15 degree of steering throw. Did you do something wrong My max steering lock is almost the same as Mr.Jolly. 24~26 degree.
With foam tire i'm getting about 23 degree of lock with 28mm rim.

Oh man... don't tell me you weren't running either cyan + magenta or indigo + magenta this sat No wonder your car push like a lazy horse. btw, indigo wear a taddy bit faster then cyan. but indigo works great when traction is not high yet.

From watching your car, your inside tire were lifting (front or rear) at some corners. try to run some more up travel: my is usually at 2mm ~ 3mm of up travel on front, 2 ~ 4mm on the rear. you just need a little more weight transfer to help free up the rear.

springs: I used the AE spring set, purple/yellow in front, purple/blue/copper in the rear. purple is like 30ib.

Don't add any kick up or anti- dive either... I removed all spacer under the susp. mount to lower the roll center. or I raised it up.. don't remember.

just bring your BD/MLP/RDX this sat. we can help you set it up... and make sure you use the right tire this time... using the wrong tire will not help.. and you have to let me drive your car a few lap man... otherwise i don't know what is wrong also.

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Old 11-20-2006, 11:55 AM   #6343
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Default yeap

yeap the inside rear wheel would lift when I was using the white soft springs that fixed up with the Corally spring you let me use.

but I did find why the car had a bit of steering issues... found that the light weight king screw got bent and chewed right thru the inside of the steering knuckles...i knew that car felt different after the second heat compared to the first.
second qualifier i post a few laps close to my RDX...I'll try and get to the track early on Sat maybe around 1pm...and not my usual 40 before the race ...i never practice do I...
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Old 11-20-2006, 12:07 PM   #6344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer
well ... then try a brushlesssystem with 6 cells and you'll quickly find out that 25 is simply not enough
well;; if i could handle a fast car then i`ll proberly have a different outlook re;stering lock
27t/19t is fast enough for me thanks
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Old 11-20-2006, 12:33 PM   #6345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olhipster1
Moving the pivot ball forward to the outermost ackerman position will not actually change the steering throw but does change the amount of steering angle on one side.

If you look at the Yok BD when the when the wheels are fully turned on a setup gauge one side will appear to be more at an angle than the other (ackerman), so basically the inside wheel will pull the car towards the inner a bit more sharply during a turn.

hope that helps.
thanks i understand the ackerman thing, so i'm guessing its the "outside" wheel that is getting pushed out more.
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