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Old 09-25-2006, 10:29 AM   #6016
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Hi guys,

I am unfortunately having to sell my BD

I have one of the highest spec cars available, and at only 6 months old, its in a very good condition

The car for sale is the Grainger Editon UK kit, which is 6 months old. The specs for the Grainger kit are:

Front solid axle (plastic)
Direct gear adapter
Hardened front universals
Steering blocks (non-trailing)
SD World-Replica front suspension arms
Rear suspension mount (2.5 deg)
Rear hub carrier (0.5 deg)
Carbide diff balls (just replaced)
Carbide thrust balls
Front sway bar (gold)
Titanium-nitride coated shock shafts
SD World-Replica rear universals
Titanium screws
Spur gear (83T)
Green springs (equivalent to HPI blue springs)
SD World-Replica bumper plate (graphite)
Hinge pin retaining screws (titanium)
Suspension hinge pin spacers (aluminum)
TIR aluminium front spool
Exclusive Chris Grainger Tuning & Building Tips

ON TOP OF ALL THESE PARTS, I HAVE:
Speedtech RC steel spool
1-way
2 spare differentials
2 sets of std belts (F & R)
Set of Bomber white belts
spare bumper mounts and bumper
2 1-way pulleys
1 spare solid drive pulley
complete sway bar set
SDW shock towers (F & R) (rear is 2mm higher, like new Masami tower)
Complete spare set of bulkheads (including motor mount mod used by team outdoors)
spare steering bellcranks
BX ballcups
spare turnbuckles with std ballcups
2 carbon std front arms
2 carbin rear arms
2 plastic std front arms
2 plastic rear arms
battery strap and ;posts
spare F0 suspesnion mount
2 seperate piece suspension mounts (f)
2 seperate piece suspension mounts (r)
single piece suspension mount (FR)
single piece suspension mount (RF)
outboard toe single piece suspension mounts (0.5 & 1*)
complete set of new yokomo white progressive springs (including 2 pairs of blacks, blues, pinks and greens)
rayspeed yellow diaphragms
extra front belt tensioner
FULL HPI SUSPENSION MOD- front and rear (front includes some shiny blue Jet Racing alu steering knuckles!)
lots of spare Yokomo front c-hubs and steering blocks and rear hubs
1 spare pack of carbide diff balls
brand new bearings in packet(not yokomo)
lots of spare screws (steel & ti)

2 pairs of steel UJ driveshafts (F & R)
a spare pair of alu. UJ driveshafts (rear)
1 pair of tir driveshafts (front)
lots and lots of std driveshafts! (F & R)
spare chassis (has been used) with battery trays

This car has been extremely succesful and achieved some great results since I first got it. On its first outing at the Carpet Masters series, I took the win in the stock class.
Since then it has:
Taken 3 11th place qualifying positions at 27t BRCA nationals
Made the A final at Bedworth BTCC round
Finished 14th in the F1 27t BRCA national championship
Took the top junior (Under 17) title for the BRCA nationals
Won the one-off BRCA Junior championships at Ashby (27t)
Made the A-final at the prestigous KOGP in 27t and won the top junior (Under 17) prize

As you can see, the car has a great spec and some good results to go with it. All I am asking is a measely 250 ono!!!

I shall also send my setup sheets and if possible, I shall send the car setup for the track/surface you race on (rubber tyres only )

Thanks for looking!
Ali
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Old 09-25-2006, 10:35 AM   #6017
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I'll give you a pound, plus I won't take you out for a week.

Oh yeah, remember to take my speedo out before you pack it off!!!!

PS, are you going to tell the buyer about the fact that the chassis plate is snapped in half?

Last edited by JRXS_chris; 09-25-2006 at 10:51 AM.
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Old 09-25-2006, 10:39 AM   #6018
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Oh yeah I forgot to list that in the spares
Hara Twister 2

jkin

snapped chassis, whatever do you mean?
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Last edited by Ali Graham; 09-25-2006 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:09 PM   #6019
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Hi fellas. just received nearly new grainger BD. Previous owner has sawn front corner of the motor mount off and removed the top deck brace, obviously to achieve more flex i'm planning to run mod on carpet with vtec slicks. Do you reckon the chassis will still work in this configuration or is it slightly too bendy now for its own good? ta
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:42 PM   #6020
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so that would be "THE" motor mount mod you mentioned. how much have they sawn off? and is it just held on with the one screw at the back now?
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:43 PM   #6021
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Hi' the plate mount will give more flex but it is also to give the car equal flex' u will also need to remove the curved post oppisite to achive the equal flex good for outdoors but prolly not the best option for carpet racing' for racing on carpet you might whant to put the post back in and wer the plate was cut/filed place a 1 or 2 mm shim under depending on the amount that was removed then put the screw back thru going thru the shims in to the plate!

Or get a new/used motor plate and use that.

hope that helps.
ste.
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Old 09-25-2006, 02:40 PM   #6022
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Ste is right, remove 2mm from the part of the mount where the motor sits, and you will have equal flex both ways when you remove the curved post opposite the motor, take a close look at Masami's car (or any Yok team driver for that matter) from the worlds.
BTW, this is something included with my BD for sale above, a bog std bulkhead and 1 with this mod Not the best idea for indoors though.
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Old 09-25-2006, 03:41 PM   #6023
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wouldnt it make the car a bit weak tho with only one screw at the back holding the top deck on. ive got a old top deck that ive modified and cut the centre out of it to give it flex would this give the same effect ive included a pic to show.
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:50 PM   #6024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makytc4
wouldnt it make the car a bit weak tho with only one screw at the back holding the top deck on. ive got a old top deck that ive modified and cut the centre out of it to give it flex would this give the same effect ive included a pic to show.
Hi, nah it will be fine with the curved post out and with a screw missing All the top mod and most stock guys run like over in the uk . Hm that top deck mod looks very weak 'wer you running it on ice ' Honnest get your self a spare that wont last 2sec in a crash.

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Old 09-26-2006, 06:18 AM   #6025
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its not that much more flexable really than the standard one. been using it for weeks without a problem and im bout second quicker a lap than everyone people so cant be to bad. gonna try the bulkhead mod tho see if i can tell the difference
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Old 09-26-2006, 06:38 AM   #6026
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Does anyone have pics of the mod? close ups
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:46 AM   #6027
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I have a carpet chassis for the BD for sale - it is the really good one that JIMNEW who posts on here made. This chassis and top deck are 3mm and made of some of the best graphite as it is very stiff. No rear bumper mount and top desk not cut all out either.

I'd like to get $95 for both. The BD runs great on carpet using foams with this chassis.

PM for pictures
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Old 09-26-2006, 09:18 AM   #6028
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makytc4, I did that top deck mod but only to increase front end bite, not overall grip. I only broke it when I leant on it
The bulkhead is perfectly strong when modded, I don't think any of the team have had any problems at all.



I know it hasn't been modded in this pic, but basically remove 2mm from the first bit of bulkhead you can see to the right of the spur gear, to the end.
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Old 09-26-2006, 12:14 PM   #6029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyZim
so that would be "THE" motor mount mod you mentioned. how much have they sawn off? and is it just held on with the one screw at the back now?
This much! Am tempted to buy new bulkhead and maybe hard chassis plate. What do you fellas think?
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Old 09-26-2006, 02:39 PM   #6030
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That's perfect

Buy another but don't mod it all, and with the hard chassis that would be perfect indoors. Another option with the std chassis is to use a steering post and mount it in the centre of the chassis between top deck and chassis, where the aerial hole is. Don't do this with the hard chassis though.
On my last drive with the car I tried the Rayspeed yellow diaphragms (hard) and I can imagine these being awesome on very high grip surfaces, a bit too extreme for club meets though I'd say.
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