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Old 09-24-2006, 05:05 AM   #6001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer
my dampers are 63m in the front and 65,5 in the rear, both with the short end (with 65,5 I'm able to geht 3mm of Droop with the Masami Spec parts) with the original bd parts 63 should be enough.
Wow, 65.5mm, thats quite large. I would be affraid the ball joint end would come off in a crash.

Speaking about the ends, is there any difference between the long and short ends apart from the fact it will make you shocks different lenghts? As to get these long shock lenghts it would make sense to use the long end, but people only seem to use the short ones? Is there something I don't know?
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Old 09-24-2006, 09:42 AM   #6002
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question regarding the new sweep front mounts. what differnce does it make changing them. also i got the narrower wheel hexs what differnce do these make changing the width of the car.
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Old 09-24-2006, 12:01 PM   #6003
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Hi,

after I read all the comments about the HB suspension I decided to use it aswell.
Over the weekend I fitted the parts and with a little bit of Dremel-Action it's a nice fit. Really cool.
I like the idea of using a grub screw to hold the suspension pin in place. Seems to work great.
After I was done with that I did the harder part and made 2 TRF415 diffs to work in the Yokomo. It's a bit challenging as you have to remove material of the outdrives and of the diff pulley. But it's worth the work. Looks great and should last forever.

Cheers
Chris
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Old 09-24-2006, 01:54 PM   #6004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy-932
Hi,

after I read all the comments about the HB suspension I decided to use it aswell.
Over the weekend I fitted the parts and with a little bit of Dremel-Action it's a nice fit. Really cool.
I like the idea of using a grub screw to hold the suspension pin in place. Seems to work great.
After I was done with that I did the harder part and made 2 TRF415 diffs to work in the Yokomo. It's a bit challenging as you have to remove material of the outdrives and of the diff pulley. But it's worth the work. Looks great and should last forever.

Cheers
Chris
Can you list the parts required to do these conversions?
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Old 09-24-2006, 02:10 PM   #6005
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Hi,

for the HB suspension:
73507 2x Carbon Graphite Block an Hub Set
75119 2x Suspension Shafts
73518 1x C-Hubs
And you'll need the HB wheel axles. I don't know the part number for them. But running the TiR CVD's would be a great option.
Everything else you need is a Dremel and a 2.5mm drill. And the rear blocks habe around 1mm too much play in the A-Arm so I used a small shim to make it fit properly.

For the Tamiya diff:
53889
That's the complete diff with the screw, spring, nut and thrust bearing.
It's quite tough to make the diff fit. I'd highly suggest to use a lathe. It should work with a Dremel and a set of diamond files but I doesn't look as nice. I've access to a lathe and that worked quite well.
You have to remove around 2mm from the short side of the outdrive because otherwise the whole diff would be too wide and wouldn't fit between the bulkheads. And you have to remove material of the short stub on the short side of the outdrive where the small bearings sit.
And the last thing is the small edge at the diff pulley where the bearings sit. You have to remove the edge on both sides and everything is fine.

It's a bit of work but in my opinion it's worth it. Diff should last forever and the HB suspension looks really nice. Will test it next week to see if it performs as well as it looks.

Cheers
Chris
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Old 09-24-2006, 02:32 PM   #6006
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wat r the effects of the hpi rear blocks do it give u more rear grip??

thanks
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Old 09-24-2006, 02:40 PM   #6007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy-932
Hi,

for the HB suspension:
73507 2x Carbon Graphite Block an Hub Set
75119 2x Suspension Shafts
73518 1x C-Hubs
And you'll need the HB wheel axles. I don't know the part number for them. But running the TiR CVD's would be a great option.
Everything else you need is a Dremel and a 2.5mm drill. And the rear blocks habe around 1mm too much play in the A-Arm so I used a small shim to make it fit properly.

For the Tamiya diff:
53889
That's the complete diff with the screw, spring, nut and thrust bearing.
It's quite tough to make the diff fit. I'd highly suggest to use a lathe. It should work with a Dremel and a set of diamond files but I doesn't look as nice. I've access to a lathe and that worked quite well.
You have to remove around 2mm from the short side of the outdrive because otherwise the whole diff would be too wide and wouldn't fit between the bulkheads. And you have to remove material of the short stub on the short side of the outdrive where the small bearings sit.
And the last thing is the small edge at the diff pulley where the bearings sit. You have to remove the edge on both sides and everything is fine.

It's a bit of work but in my opinion it's worth it. Diff should last forever and the HB suspension looks really nice. Will test it next week to see if it performs as well as it looks.

Cheers
Chris
Sweet, my brother is a Fitter/Turner, so should be able to do the machining on the diff for me. I'm still melting rear diff pulley's with a Novak 4.5 and a 3.5 is on its way, so need to get this sorted. I have a complete new diff going in the car this week, but a stronger one would be better.
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Old 09-24-2006, 02:42 PM   #6008
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Just one other thing, are the Tamiya pulleys 40T, or do you need to run the Tamiya pulleys front and rear?
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Old 09-24-2006, 02:44 PM   #6009
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Hi,

@mwoods: I can't tell you. I will try it because Team Yokomo uses them since the worlds and I thought it would be nice to give them a try.

@Greg: Nice, show me the result please. You'll use the Yokomo pulleys. You just have to remove the small edge.

Cheers
Chris
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Old 09-24-2006, 02:52 PM   #6010
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Ok, this mod may not help me with my problem. I'm running the diff very tight at the moment and am not using the throttle on corners to save the diff. The new diff may solve it, but I still don't like it being that close to melting anyway. Really want an alloy pulley.
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Old 09-24-2006, 03:37 PM   #6011
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I am drawing the pulley at the moment but to get it light enought is going to be very difficult. As there needs to be alot of material removed to get this the weight needed it would cost alot to machine it doesnt really seem worth it, also if the diff slips with an alloy pulley you will get filings in the diff which will make it destroy itself. Running alloy diff halves should solve the problem as it should dissipate the heat away from the plates better.
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Old 09-24-2006, 03:54 PM   #6012
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What I may do is give some new diff halfs and a pulley to my brother and get him to set up a profile in his CNC. I have a friend in the aircraft industry who can get some good alloy and then I maybe able to run off a few. Worth investigating anyway. Just on weight, with the amount of power going through the car, is it going to be that much of a problem?
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Old 09-24-2006, 03:57 PM   #6013
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Yokomo have some steel diff halfs, I may just use some of them and see how I go.
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Old 09-24-2006, 04:34 PM   #6014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg M
Yokomo have some steel diff halfs, I may just use some of them and see how I go.
Tir now have diff halves for bd. they look great so there should not be any need to use tamiya parts.
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Old 09-24-2006, 04:44 PM   #6015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lignum vitae
Tir now have diff halves for bd. they look great so there should not be any need to use tamiya parts.
I just bought some
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