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Old 09-02-2006, 09:58 PM   #5911
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I ran my Novak GTB and 4.5 in my BD for the first time today. Talk about power, it was awesome. One problem I'm having is ripping the inside of the diff pulley to bits. I did this in practice and the last race of the day. The pulley is disintergrating where the diff balls go which is the weakest point. Has anyone else had this sort of problem? Maybe an alloy diff pulley is needed?
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Old 09-03-2006, 06:15 PM   #5912
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Does anyone have a link where I can find the manual to download?

Thanks

Tony
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Old 09-04-2006, 12:06 AM   #5913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadBrushRacing
Does anyone have a link where I can find the manual to download?

Thanks

Tony
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/yoko...omoMR4TCBD.htm
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Old 09-04-2006, 12:24 AM   #5914
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anyone know of replacement alternatives for the kingpin collar that goes under the knuckle arm in the c-hub? kinda lost one of mine in a crash. but since i'm using the team suzuki aluminum knuckle arms, i find it a waste of money to get new knuckle arms just for the collars.

thanks!

note: tried looking for the Yok aluminum aftermarket ones but they're not available here locally.
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Old 09-04-2006, 12:35 AM   #5915
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Ti kingpin inserts will do the job, with a button head screw rather than a regular kingpin.
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Old 09-04-2006, 01:00 AM   #5916
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Ti kingpin inserts will do the job, with a button head screw rather than a regular kingpin.
sorry for being such a noob but what do those look like?

thanks!
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Old 09-04-2006, 01:28 PM   #5917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg M
I ran my Novak GTB and 4.5 in my BD for the first time today. Talk about power, it was awesome. One problem I'm having is ripping the inside of the diff pulley to bits. I did this in practice and the last race of the day. The pulley is disintergrating where the diff balls go which is the weakest point. Has anyone else had this sort of problem? Maybe an alloy diff pulley is needed?
You have something wrong with the way you built your diff. We run 7 singles and never have a problem. Maybe you have the diff too loose?
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Old 09-04-2006, 01:42 PM   #5918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH
anyone know of replacement alternatives for the kingpin collar that goes under the knuckle arm in the c-hub? kinda lost one of mine in a crash. but since i'm using the team suzuki aluminum knuckle arms, i find it a waste of money to get new knuckle arms just for the collars.

thanks!

note: tried looking for the Yok aluminum aftermarket ones but they're not available here locally.
Were these the ones?

The Lightweight ones are the best, don't have a picture, but it is a sleave with a Ti screw and it works the best. The spacer and sleave are one piece. Part number SD-414TA
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Yokomo MR4TC-BD-sd-414c.jpg  
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Old 09-04-2006, 02:18 PM   #5919
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The first pulley showed no sign of excess heat, but looking at the 2nd one last night I can see that there are signs of the plastic melting. It was set pretty tight, but not tight enough obviously. I'll crank it up abit more when I put the car back together tonight. Any tips on telling how tight to make the diff? I thought I had it pretty tight where I didn't think there would be much diff action. If I tighten it much more, I wonder if it would be worth running a solid axle.
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Old 09-05-2006, 04:02 AM   #5920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pops
Were these the ones?

The Lightweight ones are the best, don't have a picture, but it is a sleave with a Ti screw and it works the best. The spacer and sleave are one piece. Part number SD-414TA

yup. been looking for those... couldn't find them here locally.
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Old 09-05-2006, 04:58 AM   #5921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg M
The first pulley showed no sign of excess heat, but looking at the 2nd one last night I can see that there are signs of the plastic melting. It was set pretty tight, but not tight enough obviously. I'll crank it up abit more when I put the car back together tonight. Any tips on telling how tight to make the diff? I thought I had it pretty tight where I didn't think there would be much diff action. If I tighten it much more, I wonder if it would be worth running a solid axle.
I assume its the front diff then. What surface you running on?
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Old 09-05-2006, 07:36 AM   #5922
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pops

The Lightweight ones are the best, don't have a picture, but it is a sleave with a Ti screw and it works the best. The spacer and sleave are one piece. Part number SD-414TA
these are very good used these to replace the black shouldered kingpin varity
just a better fit into the steering knuckle
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Old 09-05-2006, 10:50 AM   #5923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg M
The first pulley showed no sign of excess heat, but looking at the 2nd one last night I can see that there are signs of the plastic melting. It was set pretty tight, but not tight enough obviously. I'll crank it up abit more when I put the car back together tonight. Any tips on telling how tight to make the diff? I thought I had it pretty tight where I didn't think there would be much diff action. If I tighten it much more, I wonder if it would be worth running a solid axle.
Yep, too loose. If you look at the instruction manual when you assemble the diff you will see a tip on how to make sure the diff is tight. With a couple of allen wrenches you hold the outdrives and try an rotate the pulley. That is a good strart. After you install the diff in the rear, I hold the LR tire in my left hand and with my left thumb I press hard on the spur gear. With my right hand I try and turn the right tire. You should not be able to either turn it or at least be very difficult to turn. You can over tighten the rear diff and that will make the diff feel very gritty and eventually make the diff screw snap. For a front diff I put the rear tires between my knees and rotate the front tires it should make the belts click on the pulley if it is tight. But running a spool is faster on asphalt, but a front diff is better on carpet with foams.
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:00 PM   #5924
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Aha, I read something about a spool... time to ask something about it.

I'm driving a with 4.5r motor on asphalt. Griplevel is medium to high.

What is the best spool out there???

I have the Team Bomber one and I'm very displeased with it. I bought it cause it required blades and I thought, nice touch, replace the blades, keep the spool alive.
Well, I'm going through blades at a rate of 1 pair on 2 batteries (NOT KIDDING). I'm a person who goes pretty soft on the throttle so that definately isnt the problem. -> these are expensive batteries at this rate!!

I now ordered the one from Titanium racing cause its thye one that comes with the grainger kit. Also ordered both types of outdrives and I wanna see what works out best.
Are there other spools better for the BD??
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:13 PM   #5925
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Quante:

if you don't mind the extra weight, then you can use the steel spool from speedtechrc...

~Ming

Last edited by aoizip; 09-05-2006 at 01:26 PM.
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