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Old 07-12-2006, 02:19 PM   #5686
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Hi yyhayyim,

For the diffmelting-problem, you prob. had the rear diff to loose wich causes the diffrings to heat up really much and therfore melted the out-drives.

I always use contactglue and glue the rings to the outdrives, it solves the melting problem. It also extend the life of the out-drives if you have set the diff really hard. What normally happens then, if they arenīt glued on, is that the "corners" on the out-drives where the diffring is keyed at get rounded by the diffring. Then the hole diffring starts to move and then pretty quickly it spins on the outdrives and then melts toghether with the outdrives.

I have gone through ALOT of outdrives with my powerful brushless-setup before I glued them together. The only wear you will see know after you glued the ring and outdrives toghether are from the driveshafts and that isnīt much at all.

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Old 07-12-2006, 02:45 PM   #5687
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Default Diff outdrives

Thanks NIC and JasonC for your help and input. And NIC, will regular CA glue work to glue the rings to the outdrives? After I have glued them on, how tight should I tighten the diffs? I dont have a manual to refenrece by, and its the first belt car I've owned. Previously I had a TC4, and those could be tightened pretty tight...but these are a bit different.
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Old 07-12-2006, 03:08 PM   #5688
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yyhayyim:

This is what i do.

1) sand both shinny diff ring with 1000 grit sand paper
2) put a tiny dab of either shoe glue or diff grease on the dull side so the ring won't full out while putting them together
3) put a tiny dab of diff grease on your hand and grease the shinning side
4) use enough diff grease to grease the diff ball (don't go crazy on them)
5) put them together and check for tightness
6) i use the diff building tool to check the tightness, if you don't have it, stick two screw driver on the both end of out drive.
7) tighten the diff until you can't move the diff pully.
8) put a drop of blue lock tie or red one on the diff nut so it won't back out.

thats it.

before i tighten the diff up, I usually give the diff couple spin, tighten the screw in a little, spin the diff couple more time, tighten the diff. repeat them untill diff is tight.

hope this help.

~Ming

Last edited by aoizip; 07-12-2006 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 07-12-2006, 03:30 PM   #5689
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Unhappy Jason C, NIC, MING: thanks a million!

Thanks for the tips Ming. You dont know how much this helps out. Its good that brothers like you frequent these forums to help those in need. Peace!

An one more thing: what are some good hop-ups parts I could get to enhance the cars durability and performance, and what's a good place to get parts for the BD. I live in the US, in Miami, Florida. Hobbyshops here dont carry pro racing parts or kits, exept for old TC3 or TC4 kits/parts. Its depressing.
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Old 07-12-2006, 03:38 PM   #5690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
An one more thing: what are some good hop-ups parts I could get to enhance the cars durability and performance, and what's a good place to get parts for the BD. I live in the US, in Miami, Florida. Hobbyshops here dont carry pro racing parts or kits, exept for old TC3 or TC4 kits/parts. Its depressing.
I find that hard to believe. Florida is one of the most competitive places in the USA to race. I guess it depends on what shops you go to.
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Old 07-13-2006, 05:06 PM   #5691
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i live in west palm,and their is no hobby shop here that has any yokomo parts, but in related to just tc cars like xray,tc4 and other mis. accessories with tc cars like motors ect. i think we have like 3 to 4 hobby shop. but mostly off road stuff our lhs sells...
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Old 07-14-2006, 09:44 AM   #5692
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Castor blocks, steering arms and rear hubs are prototype Yokomo parts, using yokomo bearings and driveshafts.
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Old 07-14-2006, 09:50 AM   #5693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Pape
Castor blocks, steering arms and rear hubs are prototype Yokomo parts, using yokomo bearings and driveshafts.

do u no wen these parts will b out to buy?? thanks
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Old 07-14-2006, 10:08 AM   #5694
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Default SDW arms

Who has the SDW arms? Please help!
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Old 07-14-2006, 10:09 AM   #5695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Pape
Castor blocks, steering arms and rear hubs are prototype Yokomo parts, using yokomo bearings and driveshafts.

There are pictures from the worlds of Masami's car and H/B cars. Flicking from picture to picture the hubs,castor blocks and rear hubs are excatly the same on both cars.
Did Masami use the prototype parts or are they the H/B ones? Just to clarify
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Old 07-14-2006, 10:29 AM   #5696
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I pitted with Masami/Billy and Grainger as part of Team Yokomo at the worlds, I had Masami's car in my hand and can categorically state that all the parts are Yokomo, they may look the same as HB, but they fit Yokomo bearings and driveshafts.

As soon as they returned to the factory they were tooling up and mass producing these parts. They should be available shortly.
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Old 07-14-2006, 10:40 AM   #5697
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Thanks for that John, thats set the ones who didn't believe me before the worlds straight
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Old 07-14-2006, 11:40 AM   #5698
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will the front BD shock tower fit the LCG? kinda broke mine (repaired with CA glue and some cotton) and the only available parts are from the BD.
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Old 07-14-2006, 12:13 PM   #5699
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I'm pretty sure it will fit, I think they use the same towers.
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Old 07-14-2006, 12:17 PM   #5700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EVS
Who has the SDW arms? Please help!

yokomousa.com. just bought some. think speedtechrc may have some also
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