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Old 07-10-2006, 08:29 AM   #5656
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Originally Posted by Switch Blade
thanks a lot guys. My original intention when I bought the BDM was to use it as a rubber car, but my racing buddies talked me into racing foam...

and as I look at the parts list myself I cant find the solid center pulley.
Direct drive center pulley, part# BD-630.
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Old 07-10-2006, 11:07 AM   #5657
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guys does any of you have a problem with the steering knuckle and the hub binding.. i rebiuld my steering parts last night and i figure out that the steering knuckle is like squeez by the king pin. and i back it out still there is a little bit of binding specially the grapihte chub.. when i change it to the other hub (the shinny one.) it went ok.. how to prevent the binding?? cause i back it out and now im afraid that it might just stripp when i run it...
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Old 07-10-2006, 11:34 AM   #5658
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where did you place your king ping ring? inside the hub or outside?

If you putting the king ping ring inside the hub, i would sand the ring a little bit to free up from binding.

or

1) you can try to use the Ti king ping set.
2) Put both ring on the outside of the hub.

~Ming
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:03 PM   #5659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbull
I'm playing with a centre link steering system instead of the 2 links, at the moment.

Apart from making the car lighter to compensate a bit for the heavier brushless system, I also have plenty of ackerman now. However, does ackerman do much to help when you're running a spool? I don't think so.

it did to me !!!
also the brushless i use is much more lighter than the same brushed system from LRP!!
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:36 PM   #5660
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Originally Posted by pinggoy
guys does any of you have a problem with the steering knuckle and the hub binding.. i rebiuld my steering parts last night and i figure out that the steering knuckle is like squeez by the king pin. and i back it out still there is a little bit of binding specially the grapihte chub.. when i change it to the other hub (the shinny one.) it went ok.. how to prevent the binding?? cause i back it out and now im afraid that it might just stripp when i run it...
It sounds like you may be over tightening the king pins a little. You want to only go just tight enough. They will also bind a little it not screwed in straight. If you use the Ti king pins with the sleaves they will also screw in straighter. I always seem to have more problems using the plastic steering hubs, that's the 0 deg trailing and 1 deg trailing (not to confuse anyone) But the graphite ones never seem to bind at all for me.
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:41 PM   #5661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switch Blade
Maybe this was discussed already, but what are people doing to make their BD's foam friendly? I already have the hard chassis and was wondering if a thicker upper deck was avalible. Other wise I know how to stiffen it, but it is a pain. I figured I would use associated Purple front and bronze rear springs with 60 wt front and 40 wt rear oil, but dont know what to do about pistons. I was thinking 3mm droop front and rear, but I am totally guessing on that also. And body G6, but thats simple. As far as the springs and oil, i am guessing too. Its all I could think of. To use a front diff do I just buy all of the rear diff parts and use it in the front? And lastly, does Yokomo sell a solid center pulley instead of the one way pulley?
Speedtech has, I think it is made by square, a top deck which is much stiffer that you could use. If you are interested in getting some foam tires, I will sell you a bunch for a very cheap price. They have been narrowed a little in the front to meet ROAR spec's and still not rub arms. Will not be racing foam carpet anymore. Just e-mail me for the price if you are interested.
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:22 PM   #5662
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my mate sorted me out with some drill blanks for hingepins other week. used 2.5mm inner and the outer ones are 2mm. they fit very well.

ive got the shooters v2 top deck. it stiffens the chassis quiet a bit to the standard one.
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:40 PM   #5663
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Originally Posted by makytc4
my mate sorted me out with some drill blanks for hingepins other week. used 2.5mm inner and the outer ones are 2mm. they fit very well.

ive got the shooters v2 top deck. it stiffens the chassis quiet a bit to the standard one.
That's right Shooters not Square!
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:52 PM   #5664
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think team bomber make one as well but lot people said the shooters one was better . i got the shooters shock towers as well which are good for lot more fine tuning. just ordered some hpi c hubs gonna try out hopefully on wednesday night. which aluminium front hubs does everybody think i should get. speed racing ,suzuki or yeah racing. i see the speed and the yeah racing ones have 2 holes. take it these are the 0 and 1 mm trailing.
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:57 PM   #5665
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I have a few sets of the Speed Racing knuckles on my BD's and LCG and overall they're good. Mainly because you can loctite the kinpins in to stop loosing them, they're more durable initially but over time they do get weak and it doesnt take much to finish them off. Having said that i'd still use them again over kit supplied graphite knuckles though.
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Old 07-10-2006, 04:00 PM   #5666
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Id just wait a little and see what Yokomo bring out.
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Old 07-10-2006, 04:19 PM   #5667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hughes
Id just wait a little and see what Yokomo bring out.
I second that, you can bet new C-Hubs and steering knuckles should be coming. I would bet some new sway bars too.
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Old 07-10-2006, 05:04 PM   #5668
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Heard anything about new ackerman gear at all pops? Wasnt Billy testing something new a month or so back?
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Old 07-10-2006, 07:22 PM   #5669
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Originally Posted by v0rtex
Heard anything about new ackerman gear at all pops? Wasnt Billy testing something new a month or so back?
He was, it was really different than the current setup. Not sure if it will happen or not. You never know.
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Old 07-10-2006, 08:34 PM   #5670
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anybody knows if there is a aluminum chub??for the bd
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