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Old 06-22-2006, 04:25 PM   #5476
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Mark

2.5 and 0.5 is going to give you more steering, obviously with a sacrifice in stability. I normally only run the car like that if I know I have plenty of grip. 3 and 0 is always a safer option. I think a few tracks in the UK suffer from heat, we're just not used to it I guess.

Hopefully Southend won't be too hot for the national, feel free to come over and say hi. Hopefully car will be good for that weekend, she was very nice at Halifax.

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Old 06-22-2006, 06:13 PM   #5477
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Hey guys are the SD's arms shorter than the BD's. I was wanting to know if there is a advantage to running the shorter arms and I purchased mip cvd's that are for the SD that im putting on my BD and I noticed that they barely fit in the drive cups.
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Old 06-22-2006, 06:19 PM   #5478
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SDW arms are slightly shorter, otherwise they're the same. I know the BD uses rear CVD's all around so there could be a difference somewhere if you're using the fronts from an SD.
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Old 06-22-2006, 06:39 PM   #5479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performance26
Hey guys are the SD's arms shorter than the BD's. I was wanting to know if there is a advantage to running the shorter arms and I purchased mip cvd's that are for the SD that im putting on my BD and I noticed that they barely fit in the drive cups.
You might have the CVDs from the old belt car MR4-TC Special. The bones were longer on the front and shorter on the rear. The new car ( SD and BD) uses the same size rear bones (shorter) on the front for clearance.
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Old 06-22-2006, 06:48 PM   #5480
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Originally Posted by pops
You might have the CVDs from the old belt car MR4-TC Special. The bones were longer on the front and shorter on the rear. The new car ( SD and BD) uses the same size rear bones (shorter) on the front for clearance.
The package is Rayspeed and there aluminum and says its for the SD
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Old 06-22-2006, 07:27 PM   #5481
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bd guys picture this:

i drove my bd for the first time last night and if i turn left on the corner my car is loose on power...and just today i went back to the track and try to change set up , while i was driving i snap the rear right tire (if the car's rear is facing at you)
i measure the components of my car and the 3800 is like 400g and esc,motor,amb, receiver, and servo. is like 320g...is it kinda big difference. and where would i put the weights?
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Old 06-22-2006, 10:02 PM   #5482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performance26
The package is Rayspeed and there aluminum and says its for the SD
If you disconect the shocks, are your arms being restricted by the cvd's hitting the cups? If not there is no problem.
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Old 06-22-2006, 10:03 PM   #5483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinggoy
bd guys picture this:

i drove my bd for the first time last night and if i turn left on the corner my car is loose on power...and just today i went back to the track and try to change set up , while i was driving i snap the rear right tire (if the car's rear is facing at you)
i measure the components of my car and the 3800 is like 400g and esc,motor,amb, receiver, and servo. is like 320g...is it kinda big difference. and where would i put the weights?
What do you mean you snap the rear tire?
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Old 06-22-2006, 11:07 PM   #5484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinggoy
i measure the components of my car and the 3800 is like 400g and esc,motor,amb, receiver, and servo. is like 320g...is it kinda big difference. and where would i put the weights?
You can put 5g weights under the main belt, some under the front bumper, under the rear diff and front one-way, behind the motor and behind the battery pack, infront of the servo and in front of the battery pack.

Just make sure you get your weight distribution correct, and remember get the weight as low down and as close to the centre line as possible
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Old 06-23-2006, 05:55 AM   #5485
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Default adding weight.

adding weight can be a good thing if you need to fine tune the car. But like Vortex said, you need to do it so the car keeps its current weight distributiom.
But you can put it lots of spaces. opposite motoe, under belt, on the front shoulders of the chassis. If you have access to a set of scales you need to try and weig each corner of the car and mach the weight distribution from corner to corner, and at least try to correct any uneveness left to right.
It takes time but its worth it. Then you can plsy around with the weights position and get more front or rear grip by moving it forewards or backwards.
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Old 06-23-2006, 12:56 PM   #5486
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pops, i bought the rayspeed cvds front and rear, the fronts came very close to the edge of the outdrive so i don't use them, however i did have a set of nip mip bones so i was able to use the rayspeed axle part.

the question about steering, and rear toe, i take away a much rear toe as possible. esp with a spool, right now i'm down to 2 degrees rear toe and have no traction problems. looking at using a old plastic rear block from the ssg/cgm to get down to 1 or 1.5, i worried about sanding it down and it being uneven.

also going up one spring rate in the rear will help with steering with a spool.

of course this is all my experience for my driving style.
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:04 PM   #5487
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What about running the 2 degree block in the rear but run the 1/2 degree right axle block on the left side and vica versa to achieve close 1.5 degrees total toe in. or you can do this with the 1 degree rear blocks. What do you think.
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:33 PM   #5488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtlemaster
pops, i bought the rayspeed cvds front and rear, the fronts came very close to the edge of the outdrive so i don't use them, however i did have a set of nip mip bones so i was able to use the rayspeed axle part.

the question about steering, and rear toe, i take away a much rear toe as possible. esp with a spool, right now i'm down to 2 degrees rear toe and have no traction problems. looking at using a old plastic rear block from the ssg/cgm to get down to 1 or 1.5, i worried about sanding it down and it being uneven.

also going up one spring rate in the rear will help with steering with a spool.

of course this is all my experience for my driving style.
i use the plastic 1 degree rear block cut down to be the same as the stock alum rear mounts. Then you can run 1, 1.5 or 2 degrees rear toe. i find that for stock and 19t i typically run 1 or 1.5 of toe. this does give the car steering from my experience and also my preference. good luck!
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Old 06-23-2006, 04:12 PM   #5489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pops
If you disconect the shocks, are your arms being restricted by the cvd's hitting the cups? If not there is no problem.
I have done that. But the problem is that the end of the bones are at the edge of the spool cup and i cant shim them to get the rayspeed cvd's to the center of the spool cup they just sit at the very edge. Is there any way to get these cvds to work. That is why i was thinking the SDW arms would fix that.
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Old 06-23-2006, 04:23 PM   #5490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fpart
What about running the 2 degree block in the rear but run the 1/2 degree right axle block on the left side and vica versa to achieve close 1.5 degrees total toe in. or you can do this with the 1 degree rear blocks. What do you think.
i thought about that but my understanding is that inboard toe and outboard toe have different effects on handling. however, your idea may be "dailed" won't know unless you try. i'll give it a shot next time i run the car.

thanks for the info rocket
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