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Old 06-18-2006, 05:37 PM   #5431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Werner
Pops- can you post your son's setup from the Nats? I am looking at getting back into the Yokomo line of cars and will be running on rubber tires with this car. Any help would be great.

Thanks

Jeff
Jeff,
OK, here it is. If it is too hard to read, just e-mail me at [email protected] and I will e-mail it to you,
Russ
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Old 06-18-2006, 06:08 PM   #5432
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BD WOES

Well ran the BD in 540 yesterday and couldn't get around right hand corners without the rear-end stepping out to the right. Thought I might have had a lose rear diff, checked that but this was not the culprit. I didn't have time to investigate properly at the track, as I was also running the Mighty Mini.
I continued racing but trailed the throttle through the corners which prevented the rear end from stepping out, however some corners still spun through 180. I ran in the final and managed to finish second one lap down.
At home, I pulled the front right hub off the car and watched as the dog bone from the universal fellout of the car. The universal pin had snapped and I had no drive to the front right. I have rebuilt the universal, however I think replacing the universal with the hardened front (FH-010), maybe the better option or get the TIR front CVD's.
At this stage I am undecided, which to purchase. Any constructive advice appreciated

James,
You fitted the speed racing aluminium knuckles to your BD. did you use the standard king pin bolts or can you use the SD 414 TA ( the titanium screws with spacer)? I recall that you moved the top camber arm to the middle hole on the C-hub.

Russ,
Still haven't run the LCG with the spool. I am running tonight, so will give it ago then.

Thanks

Cheers
Calvin.
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Old 06-18-2006, 06:18 PM   #5433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltech1
James,
You fitted the speed racing aluminium knuckles to your BD. did you use the standard king pin bolts or can you use the SD 414 TA ( the titanium screws with spacer)? I recall that you moved the top camber arm to the middle hole on the C-hub.
Yeah im just using the standard kingpins top and bottom, with a dob of threadlock to hold them in place. I have not tried to use the kit-supplied BD kingpin/ballstud combo with those knuckles though.

I attempted to use the Ti screws and spacers when I first installed them but it felt like the thread was not correct inside the alloy knuckle for that screw so decided against it.
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Old 06-18-2006, 06:47 PM   #5434
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Pops, I noticed that Alex was running the H chassis, I have one but I race on a parking lot track and i figured that it would be a bit on the "too stiff" side for that. Is that chassis more for high traction tracks like a carpet track?
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Old 06-18-2006, 06:59 PM   #5435
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Thumbs up SPEED MIND KNUCKLES

Thanks James,
I will have to get onto HH for some more King pins. I will PM you regarding the Hop ups I'm using on my LCG.

Cheers
Calvin.
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Old 06-18-2006, 08:00 PM   #5436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxkat
Pops, I noticed that Alex was running the H chassis, I have one but I race on a parking lot track and i figured that it would be a bit on the "too stiff" side for that. Is that chassis more for high traction tracks like a carpet track?
Yes it works better in high traction conditions. A tuning option for asphalt. It was not really designed for carpet tracks, but should be all right, might work better with a stiffer upperdeck on carpet.

Last edited by pops; 06-18-2006 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 06-18-2006, 08:12 PM   #5437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltech1
At home, I pulled the front right hub off the car and watched as the dog bone from the universal fellout of the car. The universal pin had snapped and I had no drive to the front right. I have rebuilt the universal, however I think replacing the universal with the hardened front (FH-010), maybe the better option or get the TIR front CVD's.
At this stage I am undecided, which to purchase. Any constructive advice appreciated


Russ,
Still haven't run the LCG with the spool. I am running tonight, so will give it ago then.

Thanks

Cheers
Calvin.
Calvin, the hardened universals will not hold up with a spool, the pins are just too week and are only pressed into the assembly. They work fine with a oneway or front diff.

We are running the standard universals in the front right now. But have bought some #53 hardened steel drill blank and cut it to replace the stock pins. The #53 drill blank is much stronger and should with stand almost any impact without snapping. Got this idea from rocketron, we also replaced the stock hinge pins for the arms with 2.5mm hardened steel rods too.

Last edited by pops; 06-18-2006 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 06-18-2006, 08:29 PM   #5438
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Thumbs up DRILL BLANKS

Thanks Russ and Rocketron,

I am off to chase these up.

Re read your last post Russ. I will replace the Hardened Universals in the LCG with standard universals, fitted with the drill blanks.

Later
Calvin.

Last edited by caltech1; 06-18-2006 at 08:35 PM. Reason: Alter text
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Old 06-18-2006, 11:20 PM   #5439
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BD Centre Shaft.

My standard shaft (black) starting to chew up by the one way. Not sure which to order? Shall I replace it with the Chrome type (light weight) as it is necessary harder than the standard type? Will it still wear easily?

Tks.
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Old 06-18-2006, 11:27 PM   #5440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARKANO
BD Centre Shaft.

My standard shaft (black) starting to chew up by the one way. Not sure which to order? Shall I replace it with the Chrome type (light weight) as it is necessary harder than the standard type? Will it still wear easily?

Tks.
Other people including myself have had this problem. The shaft still gets eaten even if its the Ti one. After replacing the shaft and one-way twice, I just went to a locked center pulley. I don't think there is any other solution.
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Old 06-18-2006, 11:30 PM   #5441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coons88
Other people including myself have had this problem. The shaft still gets eaten even if its the Ti one. After replacing the shaft and one-way twice, I just went to a locked center pulley. I don't think there is any other solution.
Even with the locked centre pulley the hole that locates the rear pulley ovals out and puts excessive slop into the rear belt (pulley rocks back and forward a few MM when you hold the spur). That IS after over 6 months of 19t racing with the car, so its possibly acceptable wear and tear. Something to keep in mind, however.
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Old 06-18-2006, 11:40 PM   #5442
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It never happen to my older MR4TC-SP before. Never hear it has a similar problems to Cyclone or Xray.

I have been 'lubing' it with Serpent one-way oil every 4 to 5 packs. It just cant stop the wearing. Even in the Japanese magazine, it was reminded for regular replacement of the centre shaft. I guess I will just go for the standard type for durable reason as I guess the Ti (chrome) will be softer. Anyone try the Team Bomber type anywhere?

Tks again.
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Old 06-19-2006, 06:37 AM   #5443
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I tried the team bomber centre shaft and it broke in half...
It is hollowed and I believe under excessive load is a little weak. My conditions were a high grip track and foams, so it was extreme conditions in that respect.
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Old 06-19-2006, 08:04 AM   #5444
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hey guys, putting together a masami chassis, is it me or are the front universals a little short. lots of play in both the front and rear axles. my SDW came with spacers. did i lose them this time for are they not in the package. no biggie really as i have regular axle shims to use. thanks.
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Old 06-19-2006, 08:30 AM   #5445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARKANO
BD Centre Shaft.

My standard shaft (black) starting to chew up by the one way. Not sure which to order? Shall I replace it with the Chrome type (light weight) as it is necessary harder than the standard type? Will it still wear easily?

Tks.
The new chrome hollow one is stronger in my opinion than the standard black one. We are running a spool and a locked pulley, so haven't had any problem with the one way.
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