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Old 06-05-2006, 10:35 AM   #5341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fpart
I just used my Masami Edition BD at my first big race. The car was awesome. I used one of Chris Grainger's setups and it was prettymuch dialed from the start. I made the A main in 19t with about 100 people there( most in that class) I was the only BD their. The Only other Yokomo was an SDW.

Its funny but the A Main had 1 yok, 1 415 and the rest were T2's and RDX's

Does anyone know where I can get another set of SDW arms. Adding them helped in the steering department!

Thanks
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Old 06-05-2006, 10:59 AM   #5342
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Guys i want to know how you can change the roll center , front and rear!!!

i guess from the camber links right?? moving the front camber links at the shoulder of c hub!! And what about rear??

also if you change the position of the spacer under/over steering hub , what will you change??
and what if you mount the c hub at the bottom/top hole on the arm!!

thanks for helping me so much guys i really appreciate it!!
and i am sorry if i am asking stupid things some times!!

cheers
kostas
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Old 06-05-2006, 10:23 PM   #5343
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If anyone can get their hands on Billy Eastins set-up from the carpet nats. Post it her ASAP. Thanks
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Old 06-06-2006, 12:40 AM   #5344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali Graham
Roll bars help the car carry more corner speed and corner flatter without having to resort to harder springs. I tried roll bars for the 1st time outdoors a month ago and since them I've been hooked! You can easily control the amount of bite the car has with different thicknesses. However on really flowing tracks I would go without them as they stop the car rolling smoothly round the bends. I also never use them indoors
Roll bars got nothing to do with carry more speed things. Chassis layout, roll center and suspension setting do carry more speed or rotate the car faster. Roll bars help soft springs setting to behave like hard springs when cornering.

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Old 06-06-2006, 01:15 AM   #5345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Roll bars got nothing to do with carry more speed things. Chassis layout, roll center and suspension setting do carry more speed or rotate the car faster. Roll bars help soft springs setting to behave like hard springs when cornering.
I think thats what Ali Graham was basicly saying, although most setup changes have to do with making the car carry more corner speed. Rear toe is a prime example of this, more or less rear toe will signifigently effect how quickly the car will rotate through a corner.

Roll bars will remove some lateral roll (which may result in increased corner speed) whilst maintaining forward traction, which is a perfect setup tool for medium traction tracks. Thats not to say however, that they will always yield faster lap times.
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Old 06-06-2006, 01:33 AM   #5346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharopoulos
Guys i want to know how you can change the roll center , front and rear!!!

i guess from the camber links right?? moving the front camber links at the shoulder of c hub!! And what about rear??

also if you change the position of the spacer under/over steering hub , what will you change??
and what if you mount the c hub at the bottom/top hole on the arm!!

thanks for helping me so much guys i really appreciate it!!
and i am sorry if i am asking stupid things some times!!

cheers
kostas
Placing shims under the outer camber link will raise the roll center of the car, which will result in less chassis roll. This can be done on both the front and rear of the car.

Placing shims under the inner camber link will lower the roll center, which will result in more chassis roll.

Moving the outer camber links back will slightly move the pivot point of the roll back behind the front axle, which will result in a more aggresive feeling front end. Although from my experience will also make the car somewhat less predictable and nervous.

The roll center of the car can also be adjusted by placing shims under the front and rear arm mounts, this will raise the roll center. Placing shims under the arm mounts will have a larger effect on roll center than the same amount of shims under the inner camber link would have.

Last edited by Rowdy; 06-07-2006 at 02:05 AM.
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Old 06-06-2006, 02:13 AM   #5347
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Thank you very very much my friend !!!
What about the steering hub and the spacers??

cheers
kostas
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Old 06-06-2006, 02:37 AM   #5348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rowdy
Moving the outer camber links back will slightly move the pivot point of the roll back behind the front axle, which will result in a more aggresive feeling front end. Although from my experience will also make the car somewhat less predictable and nervous.
That was the best ever single change I made to my BD, closely followed by moving the steering turnbuckles underneath the ackerman plate and steering knuckles.
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Old 06-06-2006, 02:47 AM   #5349
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Check http://users.pandora.be/elvo/ for more info on roll bars.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:25 AM   #5350
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i am ordering some parts right now and i have new BDM at home and i wana change one way to spoll or fron diff. What parts do i need to convert central pulley that is front one way to locked(constant central pulley) i know for BD630 part is that all, do i need somethin else?
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:39 AM   #5351
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If you just want to convert the center one way to direct , then you only need this part !!! But you will have to change the front one way also or else you will still have the one way "problem"
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:40 AM   #5352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharopoulos
Thank you very very much my friend !!!
What about the steering hub and the spacers??

cheers
kostas
Moving the hinge pin from the high hole on the hub to the low hole would also raise the roll center. However, if you were to do this and then move the outer camber link backward to the non standard hole on the hub, which in turn would lower the roll center back close to its original position, you would be moving the point of contact with the road slightly aft much the same as castor does. Although not exactly the same as castor.

This would be in addition to the fact that you have moved the outer camber link back (which I previously addressed) and would in itself impact the handling of the car.

Hope I explained so you can understand. It does acctually get a little more complicated than that, but that is basicly how it is. Best bet is to try it and feel for yourself.

Also, not sure what the spacer actually does, I can't think of how moving the spindle up or down 1mm will have a great effect on anything. I have always just left it as standard. Somebody care to offer an opinion on this, I would like to know myself.

Last edited by Rowdy; 06-10-2006 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:44 AM   #5353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v0rtex
That was the best ever single change I made to my BD, closely followed by moving the steering turnbuckles underneath the ackerman plate and steering knuckles.
Was this on a high grip track? I would think it would work very well in that situation. I tried it on a medium/low grip, fairly technical track and did not like it.
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Old 06-06-2006, 05:39 AM   #5354
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Yes, for me on a medium grip track it was good, and on a high grip track it was great Keep an eye on the rear tires though - if they get old things come unstuck quickly

Usually I like a car with a lot of steering though..
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Old 06-06-2006, 06:57 AM   #5355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rowdy
Placing shims under the inner camber link will raise the roll center of the car, which will result in less chassis roll. This can be done on both the front and rear of the car.
I thought this was the other way round.
Shimming up the inner camber link will lower the roll center, which will result in more chassis roll
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