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Old 01-25-2006, 09:14 PM   #4396
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Originally Posted by jamie814340
chad..... i live in australia and my mum wont let me use the credit card to buy from speedtechrc.com but i can do every other method avalible what would be the best payment method to use in my situation
do you have a paypal account - if not look into that. has buyer protection and security too. then you have the opportunity to spend money at lots of shops great way to purchase on the net IMHO
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Old 01-26-2006, 02:27 AM   #4397
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Originally Posted by noline
Can anyone give me all the part numbers to convert my front end of my Yokomo Bd in to a SDW front end now would that narrow the front end and give me more steering ? and what all do i need to know Is there any modifications to the parts That I would have to do any help would be greatly appreciated
Yon only need the SDW front wishbones, Part no. YSD008HW, you'll need 2 packets to make up a pair.
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Old 01-26-2006, 06:01 AM   #4398
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Originally Posted by rocketron
do you have a paypal account - if not look into that. has buyer protection and security too. then you have the opportunity to spend money at lots of shops great way to purchase on the net IMHO
I really like to use Paypal but their buyer protection sucks if you use it on sites other than E-bay. I just lost $250 by using paypal on a hobby stores web page. Your much safer using your credit card; at least than you have some rights.
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Old 01-26-2006, 08:50 AM   #4399
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Arrow ?

hey guys,

a friend and i have recently taken interest in the yok cars. we're compiling a list of spares and i need some help with the following issues/choices.

arms - there are four part numbers between the bd and the sdw car. which arms are the strongest? and how is the geometry changed between them? we have some with offset hingepin holes (drilled eccentric to the mold). are those the bd's (008G)? are those the only ones with that eccentric hole? please comment on the p/n's below.

Part #: SD-008
Part #: SD-008G
Part #: SD-008H
Part #: SD-008HG

knuckles - what is referred to as trailing vs. non-trailing arm type? specifically, what does this mean, and how is geometry different between the two? i am guessing it affects the scrub radius and/or use with the shorter arms (see above ). also, which material have you found to hold up better, graphite, or the the standard composite? the knuckles look weak by design, so i am seeking the stronger of the two by material. comments?

Part #: SD-415
Part #: SD-415S
Part #: SD-415SG

thanks,

- fred thomas -
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Old 01-26-2006, 09:21 AM   #4400
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Hi,

the Yokomo is a very good choice.

Regarding your questions:

SD-008: Those are the oldest one and the weakest one. I wouldn't reccomend them unless you need traction. I tested them on asphalt and they worked good.

SD-008G: Same as above but made of graphite composite. They are more durable and I would recommend them for carpet if traction is low.

SD-008H: The standard BD A-Arms. Durable and work nearly everywhere.

SD-008HG: Same as SD-008H but aswell graphite molded. I used them but found no real advantage. Perhaps if the traction is really, really high you will remark something...

The SDW arms have another geometry and are narrower then the standard ones. The car will get very twitchy but although bullet fast.


SD-415: Also available in graphite. They are the standard ones.

SD-415S/SD-415SG: With these knuckles your front end will get narrower and you get more steering. I normally use those because they turn in a lot better.

Normally you don't need the graphite ones. I only broke a knuckle once in a crash at fullspeed.
Just check the hinge pins after each crash. To check them, remove the dampers and look whether the arms fall down by their own. If not change the pins.

For spares I would suggest:
-A-Arms
-a package of rear hubs
-a package of front knuckles
-a package of kinp pins
-the steering plate

If you want to have everything that could break I would buy this parts aswell:
-front belt
-rear belt
-diff pulley (never destroyed one but I like to have my spares with me)
-one way pulley (never destroyed one but I like to have my spares with me)
-damper shock plastic parts (YS-6W)
-bearings 6x10x3 (they can get damaged when you hit something)

When you build the car use the Rayspeed damper pistons (1.2mmx3) or the Tamiya ones (you have to use motor shims to maintain them properly). The original Yokomo ones wobble around too much.

For the setup: Go with the stock setup first and work from there.
Just a tip: I never liked 3 degree toe-in in the rear and changed to 2.5 degree. With this block I would suggest to use Tamiya blue springs. They are a touch harder then the Rayspeed blue ones and they work really well.

Cheers
Chris
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Old 01-26-2006, 10:42 AM   #4401
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415 - standard front hubs that come with the kit, come with 1mm of offset (ie moved further back) make car very easy to drive although not so much initial turn in.

415S - inline front hubs, give the car more initial turn in thus making it more aggressive. Generally use these almost 100% of the time.

415SG - graphite inline front hubs, makes the car even more aggressive than the plastic version. Not a big change though.


Both 415S and 415SG do not make the front of the car narrower. The only thing that does that is the SDW wishbones and that is because the inner pin hole is offset.
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Old 01-26-2006, 10:48 AM   #4402
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Hi,

@John Pape: Perhaps I sould measure the front end of my car again without the SDW arms.
But am I correct with my thoughts, that the SDW arms make the front narrower?

Cheers
Chris
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Old 01-26-2006, 10:51 AM   #4403
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Yeah, the SDW front arms make the front end 2mm narrower each side(4mm total).
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Old 01-26-2006, 11:12 AM   #4404
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Default thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Pape
Both 415S and 415SG do not make the front of the car narrower. The only thing that does that is the SDW wishbones and that is because the inner pin hole is offset.
thank you for the quick replies.

if the knuckles change the distance from the hex/hole to the kingpin, wouldn't that change the track width, unless you compensate with thicker/thinner hexes? so far, i gather (as i had suspected) that the offset refers to the scrub radius, which is the distance from the center of contact patch to the kingpin axis. basically moving the wheels in and out while keeping the kingpin fixed. am i just missing on this altogether?

the arms are clear now. are there any cases where the graphite is actually weaker than it's composite counterpart due to its stiffness? i believe we'll opt to go with the HG's here, and use the SDW's to play with the hub offset.
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Old 01-26-2006, 12:07 PM   #4405
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Only 1 version of SDW arms(standard composite, no graphite), all HD arms(standard, graphite or SDW) are very strong, don't worry.
The standard 1mm trailing knuckle,the axle is 1mm behind the king pin, I think this is unique to Yokomo(touring car). While the in-line knuckles are just like other steering knuckles from HPI, Asso, Tamiya etc. The axles are, well, inline with the king pin. This doesn't affect the width of the front end, but a little of wheel base(1mm, hardly anything).
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Old 01-26-2006, 12:39 PM   #4406
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Speedy gave you great advice.

Also, I would suggest buying the locked center pully and a front plastic spool. Yokomo Hardened Steel universals (only needed up front), just one order of HD arms (I've never broken a single one ) 2 orders of steering knuckles, 1 order of C-hubs, 1 order of rear hubs, 1 pair of diff retaining rings, rayspeed pistons and spring set, P-dub SD front bumper, 3 orders of LW kingpins (these are a necessary!! and use them instead of the kingpins in the kit)
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Old 01-26-2006, 01:29 PM   #4407
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ah yes! behind, as in behind! ok, ok. i was thinking offset along the axis of the axle itself. offset in or out. ok, it's all clear now with the reference to wheelbase. that's a weird adjustment, no? anyway, i'm good now. thank you.
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Old 01-26-2006, 02:10 PM   #4408
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can someone please tell me the number of teeth on the front and rear belts? Thanks
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Old 01-26-2006, 02:17 PM   #4409
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Why don't you count it yourself? Sorry just kidding. Here you are,front 172, rear 63.
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Old 01-26-2006, 02:23 PM   #4410
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where are the yokomo top driver or the car in the last two big races in the US
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