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Old 12-19-2005, 09:27 AM   #4006
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Originally Posted by smojoe
seriously? It isn't on the website... you going on wednesday so you can help a poor kid out?
If you look on rcracing.com the racing schedule it list racing on Dec.21 and Dec. 28. I will be out of town on the 21st, but plan to race on the 28th for sure.
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Old 12-19-2005, 10:02 AM   #4007
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Originally Posted by pops
If you look on rcracing.com the racing schedule it list racing on Dec.21 and Dec. 28. I will be out of town on the 21st, but plan to race on the 28th for sure.
dang. Oh well, I will try and go on the 28th so you can make sure the car is acting like it should be.
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Old 12-19-2005, 10:03 AM   #4008
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Originally Posted by TC_Tuner
So in Yokomo's setup sheets, they're sort of repeating themselves by listing 'skid angle' AND 'height spacer'. The one sorta defines the other...correct?

If this is the case, how is it on Masami's LRP setup, that he has -.5 degree on his front skid angle but also list .5mm spacer under both mounts? Does this make sense?

Thank you for any help here-
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LOL, nice finding...... you should be working as accountant and the boss will love you

I have no answer for that....... it looks the height of front susp. mount (the single piece) is slightly higher than rear susp. mounts ( two pieces ).
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Old 12-19-2005, 11:07 AM   #4009
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Default handle help?

Is anyone able to help explain how changing the skid angle (anti dive vs flat vs > affects the handling? Not only the front, but also the rear if possible.

Thank you in advance-
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caveman
You can use no spacer in front mount and 0.5mm spacer at the rear mounts, you get 0.5deg anti-dive. Or you can put, e.g 1mm under front mount and 1.5mm under rear mounts, you still get 0.5deg anti-dive, but in this case you have a higher front roll center.
For the Masami LRP master set up, well, you will have to ask masami himself, but I think that's a typepo. More likely he only put 0.5mm spacer under rear mounts.
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Old 12-19-2005, 11:42 AM   #4010
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Originally Posted by TC_Tuner
Is anyone able to help explain how changing the skid angle (anti dive vs flat vs > affects the handling? Not only the front, but also the rear if possible.

Thank you in advance-
TC_Tuner
Adding "kick up" raising the front angle by putting a spacer under the front of the suspension block, you are reducing the amount the front of the car will dip under braking. This reduces the amount of weight transfer to the front of the car when braking. This will reduce the amount of inital turn in, less weight transfer, but because of more caster it will provide more steering thru the rest of the corner.

Anti-Squat - positive anti-squat adding a spacer at the front of the rear suspension mount will reduce the amount the car squats under acceleration. It reduces the amount of weight transfer to the rear of the car. This will reduce traction on power and off power. Giving you more steering...
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Old 12-19-2005, 12:11 PM   #4011
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You need to test one by one to suit your driving style and track surface.
Try front tires first.

For Front tires :

Pro Dive ( front hinge pin is higher than the back, tilted upwards \ ) : suitable for bumpy and dusty track. Effects : less sensitive at corner entry ( slight push ), more cornering grip when exiting out of corner, less nervous car.

Anti Dive ( front hinge pin is lower than the back, tilted downwards / ) : suitable for smooth track, eg. carpet or high grip track. Effects : very sensitive to cornering inputs, very fast turning speed and response.

For rear tires : ( they are opposite of front )

Anti Dive ( tilted upward \ ) : I'm not sure..... I find no different with level position.

Pro Dive ( tilted downward / ) : More grip out of corner under hard acceleration ( maybe you can exit corner hard without excessive sliding ), rear tires is more responsive following front tires.

Mine is Pro Dive front, Pro Dive rear, my home track is bumpy and dusty.

The secret to carry lots of cornering's speed is good grip at the front tires without spin at the rear ( slight oversteer ).

My BD use blue (f) - blue (r) when grip is okay, green (f) - blue (r) when grip is high, white (f) - blue (r) when grip is lame.
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Old 12-19-2005, 04:58 PM   #4012
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Default pro dive / anti dive

guys, this is super helpful information.

Right now, I have my BD pretty well sorted. I'm on pace with the fastest guys at the local track, but I'm just getting the details sorted on this car (I'm new to Yok's).

I'm currently running my BD in stock rubber. This past weekend, I spent time at the local track to get ready for the Novak event in Milwaukee in two weeks. Lucky for me, my local track (IRP in DeKalb, Illinois) replaced their carpet the same time Trackside did...with the same carpet. I'm using IRP to get dialed in as good as I can for Trackside...

I headed to the track with Masami's LRP setup - accept for front skid angle is 'flat'. Running brand new TakeOff CS27's, I ended up running White (edit) springs in the front and Yellow (edit) in the rear (Rayspeed). I did not change anything else (from Masami's setup)

The car has a slight amount of oversteer going into turns. I have adequate amount of steering - I'm concerned that an anti dive setup will take away too much steering...

My next practice session, I plan to try (one at a time, of course):
-stand up rear shocks one hole on shock tower
-remove .5mm spacer from rear arm mount (on front end)

Should I consider lowering roll center on the rear? I'm not sure what this does - makes the car handle 'flatter'...right?

(edit) I looked closer at my car last night. When installing the 3degree rear block, I made the mistake of using .5mm shim under the rear block. All other hinge mounts currently have 1mm shims. So I have higher roll center (than I thought) and also have rear hinge pins angled up...prolly not good...

thanks-
TC_Tuner
Attached Files
File Type: pdf masami_bd_lrp_us.pdf (148.9 KB, 137 views)
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Last edited by TC_Tuner; 12-20-2005 at 09:42 AM. Reason: add setup sheet
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Old 12-20-2005, 04:00 PM   #4013
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Running anti dive will increase steering entering the corner, make the car more aggressive.
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Old 12-20-2005, 04:05 PM   #4014
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Just to set the record, the new chassis is the same thickness, ie 2.5mm, it just has more resin or something in it to make it stiffer. It is quite a bit stiffer, so only really suitable for carpet racing. Its not gonna be available for a while as even for the yokomo factory drivers its hard to come by.
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Old 12-20-2005, 05:08 PM   #4015
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so it will be avalible when carpet season is over? yippe
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Old 12-20-2005, 05:40 PM   #4016
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heres my new body for the BD, I'm wondering has anybody tried the Team bomber upper deck yet?
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Old 12-20-2005, 05:44 PM   #4017
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heres my new body for the BD, I'm wondering has anybody tried the Team bomber upper deck yet?
Nice paint, did you paint it?
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Old 12-20-2005, 05:51 PM   #4018
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Originally Posted by pops
Nice paint, did you paint it?

No, Jeremy Verano (J-go paint) did them. He actually paints the brand of car on the wing also. You can see more of his work in the nitro section of this tread under serpent 960 and Skyline thread.
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Old 12-20-2005, 05:57 PM   #4019
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here you go.
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Old 12-20-2005, 08:51 PM   #4020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
You need to test one by one to suit your driving style and track surface.
Try front tires first.

For Front tires :

Pro Dive ( front hinge pin is higher than the back, tilted upwards \ ) : suitable for bumpy and dusty track. Effects : less sensitive at corner entry ( slight push ), more cornering grip when exiting out of corner, less nervous car.

Anti Dive ( front hinge pin is lower than the back, tilted downwards / ) : suitable for smooth track, eg. carpet or high grip track. Effects : very sensitive to cornering inputs, very fast turning speed and response.

For rear tires : ( they are opposite of front )

Anti Dive ( tilted upward \ ) : I'm not sure..... I find no different with level position.

Pro Dive ( tilted downward / ) : More grip out of corner under hard acceleration ( maybe you can exit corner hard without excessive sliding ), rear tires is more responsive following front tires.

Mine is Pro Dive front, Pro Dive rear, my home track is bumpy and dusty.

The secret to carry lots of cornering's speed is good grip at the front tires without spin at the rear ( slight oversteer ).

My BD use blue (f) - blue (r) when grip is okay, green (f) - blue (r) when grip is high, white (f) - blue (r) when grip is lame.
i'm confused as all get out,, on the front hinge pin, when i have a spacer under the rear split mounts, and no spacers under the front, my front end is very "twichy" with it flat all around or up in the front it settles down.
and when grip is down, why do you go to a stiffer spring in front. i do the opposite, i go softer in front. maybe its just our driving styles
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