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Old 12-11-2005, 10:37 PM   #3946
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Guys...Have you noticed the cyclone...A BD Clone...but with more reliability problems
The T2 xray(Ilike the 05)copying the BD by removing the diffs and spur thru the top..dont like how they have conformed and gone to smaller hubs and bearings
It looks like the other companys are taking the inovative ideas and using them on there products.
Now if only I could get my BD to turn in like my 05xray It would be a world beater!!!!!!!
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Old 12-12-2005, 03:10 AM   #3947
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Hey Barger,

About your Yokomo BD, I have a asphalt that works really great I got ot to corner Like my Xray '05 and this setup im using dual diffs
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Old 12-12-2005, 07:17 AM   #3948
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Default What ball cups?

Anyone experiencing popping ball cups after clipping corner markers? Any recommendations on tighter ones? Thanks.
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Old 12-12-2005, 07:39 AM   #3949
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Yep ive had that, are you running a servo saver?
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Old 12-12-2005, 08:09 AM   #3950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel
Anyone experiencing popping ball cups after clipping corner markers? Any recommendations on tighter ones? Thanks.
Try to use the RPM ball cup... that will min. the popping quite a lot.

~mMing
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Old 12-12-2005, 08:24 AM   #3951
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try using the antiroll bar ball ends (the ones with the the hole right through them) they are the tightest fit but stil quite free. they are very good.

on the subject of a new car, i think that there will be a bdw comiung out after the worlds, (like the sdw). yokomo also seem to bring a new car or updated car out around the worlds time, so i doubt this year wil be any different,
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Old 12-12-2005, 09:37 AM   #3952
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
OK guys I don't know what to get? I have a good deal on a SD world edition but I don't know if the 3800 will fit on the chassis, And I'm also thinking to just to get the LCG converion for my SD.

What car handles better?
Get the LCG conversion, I believe it has the battery trays and will accept the 3800s.
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Old 12-12-2005, 11:59 AM   #3953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel
Anyone experiencing popping ball cups after clipping corner markers? Any recommendations on tighter ones? Thanks.
Cheaper ways : always replace the connectors after every two races. Buy bunch of them, they are cheap.

More expensive : in my case, I use xray connectors and shorter yokomo turnbuckles to compensate xray's longer connectors. You can improvise to get something like that.
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Yokomo MR4TC-BD-bd-047x.jpg   Yokomo MR4TC-BD-bd-045x.jpg  
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Old 12-12-2005, 12:07 PM   #3954
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How often do you replace rear ball diff and rear diff cones ?

Mine was melted big time on gawd damn big race
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Old 12-12-2005, 12:47 PM   #3955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
How often do you replace rear ball diff and rear diff cones ?

Mine was melted big time on gawd damn big race
If you melted the diff, it was too loose, if it is too tight, the diff screw will generally break. Tighten the diff as per the manual, using a couple of allen wrenches inserted in the slots to hold the diff, you should tighten until the pulley will not turn. Install the diff, hold on to the spur gear and one wheel and try an turn the other wheel. It should be very hard to turn that other wheel, if so it should be tight enough. The diff should also be smooth without holding the the spur when you rotate the wheels. If it doesn't feel free it is too tight.

Run the car and check the diff again. A newly built diff will seat itself and most likley need to be tightened again. Use only Associated diff lube and Black Grease. Use carbide diff balls, the steel ones are garbage. Carbide is worth the extra money they last many, many rebuilds.
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Old 12-12-2005, 03:36 PM   #3956
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I've had ceramic diff balls in the rear diff of my BD since it was built (about 6 months ago) and before that those same diff balls came out of my CGM which was running for about 6 months previous to that. Also have a set in my front diff of my carpet car and they're still fantasticly smooth as well. Ceramic diff balls are fantastic!
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Old 12-12-2005, 06:45 PM   #3957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel
Anyone experiencing popping ball cups after clipping corner markers? Any recommendations on tighter ones? Thanks.

I have this problem for quite a while. balls cups popping out of the steering knuckles, and hubs when you just barely top something. The best thing you can do is put a "SERVO SAVER ARM" On your servo and moved the tie rods to the bottom of the steering plate. Since I've done this no problem popping the balls cups out again. RPM balls cups is ok but they are just to bulky and they bind.
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Old 12-12-2005, 07:21 PM   #3958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jochim_18
I have this problem for quite a while. balls cups popping out of the steering knuckles, and hubs when you just barely top something. The best thing you can do is put a "SERVO SAVER ARM" On your servo and moved the tie rods to the bottom of the steering plate. Since I've done this no problem popping the balls cups out again. RPM balls cups is ok but they are just to bulky and they bind.
Jochim, the RPM's are very bulky , so myself, and a few others use them on the turning tierods (plate to knuckle) and on the rear ball stud in the rear block. The roll-bar ball cups work great on the studs in the bulkheads, and top of the c-hub.

PS: RPM makes a white ball cup set. They are rarely stocked in hobby shops, but are available if you give your shop the part number for them. The part # is listed on rpm's website. They look sick in white. But if you're in a pinch, the blue cups still look trick.
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Old 12-12-2005, 08:18 PM   #3959
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Thanks guys for the valuable tips and suggestions.

asw7576: thanks for posting the pics...nice mod you have there. Correct me if i am wrong but your mod seems to have not only solved the popping ballcups problem but also the the kingpin thread stripping problem in the hubs.

Might just give this mod a shot but may shorten the xray connectors instead of buying shorter turnbuckles and see how well it holds up.
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Old 12-12-2005, 08:40 PM   #3960
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Mike Ivy..Please email me your set up for Tarmac
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