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Old 11-29-2005, 01:45 PM   #3886
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Droop measurement:

how do you set the droop? Is it measured with a standard gauge under chassis plate?
And the droop value shown in the setups is "above ride height" or it is total chassis lift before tyres leave the ground?

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Eddi.
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Old 11-29-2005, 02:52 PM   #3887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadCapece
Any word on when these parts will be available?
The hollow center shaft is already available on our website

Team Bomber hop-ups others will be uploaded on our site as soon as they are released.

Steve Wang
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Old 11-29-2005, 05:36 PM   #3888
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Steve, what are the little round pieces do next to the hollow center shaft?
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Old 11-29-2005, 06:09 PM   #3889
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John what was your setup for carpet wars on sunday? Did you run a 1 way?
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Old 11-30-2005, 11:36 AM   #3890
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What is the effect of moving the steering arms back or forward on the the bellcrank plate?

Thanks
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Old 11-30-2005, 12:16 PM   #3891
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Doesn't this affect steering ackerman?
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Old 11-30-2005, 12:16 PM   #3892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bertracing
What is the effect of moving the steering arms back or forward on the the bellcrank plate?

Thanks
Basically, that's the Ackerman effect. It's when the inside wheel changes it's correlating angle compared to the outside wheel. Here's a quote off http://users.pandora.be/elvo/:

"A large Ackermann angle gives you smooth, predictable steering. You'll be able to round the corners nicely without all four tires trying to force the car in a different direction. A smaller Ackermann angle on the other hand can give you more aggressive steering, especially entering the corners. However, it isn't guaranteed that the front won't wash out now and then. Neither is a smooth cornering radius. It can be useful an high-traction tracks, if your car tends to oversteer in the middle of the corners, and you'd like a little more turn-in. Not to mention the psychological impact on the person driving right in front of you when you're entering corners."
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Old 11-30-2005, 12:39 PM   #3893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadCapece
Basically, that's the Ackerman effect. It's when the inside wheel changes it's correlating angle compared to the outside wheel. Here's a quote off http://users.pandora.be/elvo/:

"A large Ackermann angle gives you smooth, predictable steering. You'll be able to round the corners nicely without all four tires trying to force the car in a different direction. A smaller Ackermann angle on the other hand can give you more aggressive steering, especially entering the corners. However, it isn't guaranteed that the front won't wash out now and then. Neither is a smooth cornering radius. It can be useful an high-traction tracks, if your car tends to oversteer in the middle of the corners, and you'd like a little more turn-in. Not to mention the psychological impact on the person driving right in front of you when you're entering corners."
So which position that gives large ackerman effect ? forwards or backwards ?
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Old 11-30-2005, 12:41 PM   #3894
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IDK, I've got the links full forward in the rack it steering is neutral. Just loosen up the locknuts and slide them back and forth. The more the inside wheel in angled, the more turn in you'll have.
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Old 11-30-2005, 01:07 PM   #3895
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Layman's answer, the further forward the ballstud the more aggresive turn in you should get. That's how it is for me.

HTH

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Old 12-02-2005, 04:10 AM   #3896
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Just a quick tip for those who might get the hollow titanium centre shaft, don't use it with a one way, the one way bearing will chew it up.
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Old 12-03-2005, 04:04 PM   #3897
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Whats the difference between a LCG car kit and a SDW car kit? In regard to parts and geometry?
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Old 12-03-2005, 04:25 PM   #3898
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LCG has a lower center of gravity than the SDW. I just handles better in general, but I believe the SDW is stiffer, so it should work better for foam on carpet.
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Old 12-03-2005, 07:19 PM   #3899
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The front end of my BD is sloppy, specially on the steering plate. I tried everything shimming it etc. It doesn't affect the performance just don't like it sloppy. Need help.
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Old 12-03-2005, 08:13 PM   #3900
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I use Duratrax teflon bearings in the rack. Then take a GS Racing shim (not sure on size) and put in between the flange lip and the rack. Under the bearing, I put 1 brass motor shim and a teflon motor shim. This raised the carbon fiber off the aluminium and gives smooth action. After that, put a tiny amount of thread lock on the steel screw and screw it in to the aluminium arm. Don't fully tighten down. The steering should be very smooth and slop free. Also, make sure you have the shims on the post to keep them from moving up and down under the upper deck.
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