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Old 10-10-2005, 05:54 PM   #3496
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jimnew is the guy to talk to about a carpet chassis for the BD. I've been running one for the past couple of weeks and I have yet to lose (how many wins does stlnlst have so far this year?)
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Old 10-10-2005, 06:52 PM   #3497
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Thanks, Matt. I just shot him off a PM. Hopefully he can hook me up before Wednesday next week. My BD is dialed on asphalt, but I think it may be a bit too flexy to race on carpet. Gonna have to go with the Xray if I can't get a stiffer chassis.
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Old 10-10-2005, 10:20 PM   #3498
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Dotman,

I was just wondering were you are getting to go run the rug at? Are you going to run foam or rubber?
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Old 10-11-2005, 07:36 AM   #3499
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Guys, I'm selling my lcg. If anybody is curious as to what a shaft driven Yokomo BD feels like, I'm willing to trade. Both cars are basically the same, just different drivetrain style.
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Old 10-11-2005, 08:10 AM   #3500
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Guys
Just to let you know all PMs replied to.
Please let me know what you want asap so I can get another C/F order in as soon as possible. Since I know at least one of you wants it by next week
Later
Jim
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Old 10-11-2005, 10:34 AM   #3501
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Does it matter to use longer upper link vs. shorter upper link ?

My friend said shorter upper link make the car more aggressive, more reactive to sudden change in direction and vice versa.

What do you think ?
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Old 10-11-2005, 10:47 AM   #3502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shopkeeper
Dotman,

I was just wondering were you are getting to go run the rug at? Are you going to run foam or rubber?
The region 12 Carpet Nats are being held in Gilroy, CA on th 20th - 23rd. Foam is only allowed in Mod. I'm racing stock and 19T on rubber
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Old 10-11-2005, 01:28 PM   #3503
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Dotman

Do you know what batteries are legal at this race? I heard only 3300s
You have PM also.
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:48 PM   #3504
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As of right now, 3300s are the only batts allowed that I am aware of. I'm gonna call them right before I leave for the race to get an update though. I'm liking the 3800s. I'd like to use them if I can .
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Old 10-11-2005, 08:28 PM   #3505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuartC
Sleighty, I get my stuff direct from TiR, I believe you can order direct from TiR, www.titaniumracing.com. The spool is the same for the BD and the SD.

Spool: TNM3530

TI2504FW - TiR Worlds Edition Yokomo SD Blue Front Driveshafts pr

TI2504RW - TiR Worlds Edition Yokomo SD Blue Rear Driveshafts pr

(Blatant cut and paste for the driveshaft part numbers, cheers other Stew )

Stu

Does anyone know were to get the Ti CVDs in the USA? Or has anyone here in USA ordered directly from them?
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Old 10-11-2005, 09:33 PM   #3506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Does it matter to use longer upper link vs. shorter upper link ?

My friend said shorter upper link make the car more aggressive, more reactive to sudden change in direction and vice versa.

What do you think ?

yes a longer or shorter link will change the handling of your car...

generally, a shortening the front link gives an more abrupt/reactive feel intially... but you also also have to take into consideration the length of the link is the front longer than the rear and vice versa,
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Old 10-11-2005, 11:29 PM   #3507
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Please teach me upper link 101, thanks.

Once I read it somewhere, but I forget the idea behind it.
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:10 AM   #3508
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Anyone has a brushless set-up in their BD? Got pics?
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:17 AM   #3509
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i am thinking of getting this car but i cannot find it,even speedtech does not have this car kit....kitty
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:47 AM   #3510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Please teach me upper link 101, thanks.

Once I read it somewhere, but I forget the idea behind it.
I don't know it all but this is a bit of info I have on it...

*ROLL CENTER/CAMBER LINKS*

Long Link- A long link gives a lot of body roll in turns. It feels as if the body is willing to keep on rolling, until in the end, the springs prevent it from rolling any further. The car has more grip in corners, especially the middle part. But if there already alot of traction, the long camber links can slow the car down in turns.
Short Link- A short link makes it so that the body doesn't roll as far, it's tendency to roll drops off as it rolls. It feels as though the car generates a little less grip.
More Parallel Link (more parallel to the lower arm)- A parallel link gives a little more roll than an angled one. It feels very smooth and consistent as the body rolls in turns.
Angled Link (distance between arm and link is smaller on the inside)- An angled link makes it feel as if the car has a tendency to center itself (leveling, no roll), other than through the springs or anti-roll bar. It gives a little more initial grip, and steering into corners. It makes it very easy to 'throw' the car. The body rolls a little less than with parallel links. It's possible to use softer settings for damping spring rate than with parallel links, without destabilizing the car.

Beware that you should always keep an eye on the balance of your car; large differences in roll center front vs. rear will make the car feel less consistent and less confidence inspiring.

Longer Front- The front rolls and dives more in turns. Lots of steering in mid-corner. Could make the car hook.
Shorter Front- The front feels very stable. A little more turn-in, but has less steering in mid-corner.
Longer Rear- More rear traction in turns, and coming out of them. Rear end slide is very progressive, not unpredictable at all. Make sure that there's enough rear camber though, or you could lose rear traction in turns.
Shorter Rear- The rear feels very stable. It breaks out later and more suddenly, but if it does, the slide is more controllable. It makes the front dive in a little more, which results in more steering, especially when braking.
More Angled Front- Turn-in is very aggressive. The front feels as if it wants to roll less than the rear.
More Angled Rear- The rear end is rock-solid while turning in. It feels very confidence inspiring.

How's that for a little 101 HTH...
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Last edited by JayBee; 10-12-2005 at 01:41 PM.
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