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Old 08-15-2005, 10:48 AM   #3181
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hmmmm...tricky. it's a bit hard to want both turn-in and steering at the same time. usually i will use a higher roll center to initiate the turn-in and compensate for the reduction in mid corner steering with a softer spring or laydown the shock more. sorry i can't be of help.
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Old 08-15-2005, 10:52 AM   #3182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer
i was testing the BD now quite for a while, but I always have too less turn in steering, no matter what I change on the Setup.

What shall I do? I have ordered the inline steering knuckles, but I'm not sure if this will cure (I hope this word is right :-) ) my problem.

Here is my actual Setup. The track is a pretty tight 220m long track with not that much grip. Motors are 27T and 12T but I don't have enough steering with both.
Martin, you have done everything you could, so sell the car. NOT, just kidding! It looks like you have tried just about everything, but the one thing that really stands out, is the position of your front shocks. Having them standing so upright stiffens the suspension and will take away inital turn-in. Lay the front shocks in, this will soften the front and allow the car more intial steering. This car loves sway-bars, they will keep the car more level and faster, try a silver in the front and a black sway-bar in the rear, your car will be faster, once you get use to it.
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Old 08-15-2005, 07:23 PM   #3183
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using the stock setup for the rear hinge pin mounts, add one more spacer to the front pin mounts, this will give anti squat and raise rear roll center

on the front try leaving the hub spacers where they are and move to the upper hole. you can also try moving the ball stud on the hub to the inner most hole, and remove the spacers from the front block. and lean the shocks in one hole on the front like pops said.
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Old 08-16-2005, 05:48 AM   #3184
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Martin Hoffer : have you tried running the front c-hubs on the lower hole, that helped me a lot. also try running a fixed center pulley in combination with your 1way.
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Old 08-16-2005, 05:55 AM   #3185
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i run the c-hubs in the lower hole! and my center oneway broke, so it's a locked one now :-) I'm a bit disappointed, that it lasted only for a month now, but I can't change it.

Btw. running an centre oneway gives a bit more steering.
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Old 08-16-2005, 06:13 AM   #3186
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Well I've taken the plunge and picked up my Yok BD.

Couple of queries....

1) Anyone got an handy build tips?
2) What "essentials" do I need? Sp far I have some extra Rayspeed springs with the collars and the sway bars. Anything else needed?

Cheers

Andy
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Old 08-16-2005, 06:16 AM   #3187
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Welcome to a great car thread Andy.

I have just answered your PM in racechat.

Forgot to tell you - 40 oil and AE silver springs all round.
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Old 08-16-2005, 07:12 AM   #3188
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Lol cheers Joe, got your reply thanks

RE: Springs...

I currently have the kit springs (Yok Blue and Yellow??) and a full set of rayspeed reds and whites. I had intended to get more of the Rayspeeds in however...

I also have a full AE spring kit, are these useful on the BD? Do they use the std shock collars ok?

Cheers

Andy
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Old 08-16-2005, 07:33 AM   #3189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy M
1) Anyone got an handy build tips?
Andy-

The black greese which comes with the kit isnt really very great for use on the driveshaft assembely, it just doesnt seem to 'stick' and'll fly off as soon as you drive. try Much*More Joint Greese or Tamiya Anti-Wear Greese, these 'stick' better, think the Much*More stuff is easyer to get in the UK

if you can, replace the standard driveshafts, the Yokomo ones have caused me no end of trouble, with the pins snapping, or becoming loose. ive been using the TiR Worlds CVD Driveshafts since last week and they are much better, they have 0 bind at full bend, and the parts fit is much better, which should hopefully mean no snapped/loose pins.


later

Last edited by s2; 08-16-2005 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 08-16-2005, 09:44 AM   #3190
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Yeah the Tamiya Anti-wear grease is awesome stuff. It's actually so sticky that you go EWWW what's in this I'm having problems with the hardened universals binding up at full lock. I don't have my car in front of me right now but I'll take a look later to see how I can stop it. Where are folks getting the TiR ones? -JB
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Old 08-16-2005, 10:25 AM   #3191
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in the UK the TiR driveshafts are widely available, im affraid i dont know about the states.

1 thing i forgot to mention, the TiR driveshafts dont fit in the Yokomo 1way


Stew
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Old 08-16-2005, 11:24 AM   #3192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s2
in the UK the TiR driveshafts are widely available, im affraid i dont know about the states.

1 thing i forgot to mention, the TiR driveshafts dont fit in the Yokomo 1way


Stew
You should be able to get them from the Schumacher USA web site, either now are in the near future. They are the US importer. You can use the oneway outdrives from the SD, they have a larger inner diameter and will fit the TIRs. The BD outdrive's inner diameter is too small.
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Old 08-16-2005, 12:44 PM   #3193
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What's the order number? Unfortunately there are now images...
I think it should be:

TR2504T TiR C.V.D. MR4-SSG - MR4-SSG
Is it for the complete car? Or just a pair?

And where's the difference to this two?
TNM2504FS Steel C.V.D. MR4-SSG frt - MR4-SSG
TNM2504RS Steel C.V.D. MR4-SSG rear - MR4-SSG Rear

Thanks
Cheers
Chris
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Old 08-16-2005, 12:48 PM   #3194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy-932
What's the order number? Unfortunately there are now images...
I think it should be:

TR2504T TiR C.V.D. MR4-SSG - MR4-SSG
Is it for the complete car? Or just a pair?

And where's the difference to this two?
TNM2504FS Steel C.V.D. MR4-SSG frt - MR4-SSG
TNM2504RS Steel C.V.D. MR4-SSG rear - MR4-SSG Rear

Thanks
Cheers
Chris
I don't know the part number.
The difference is the rear hub axles are longer than the front axles.
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Old 08-16-2005, 12:48 PM   #3195
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die einen sind für vorne und die anderen für hinten (rear) so wies aussieht ist das immer nur einer, weil in der einzahl geschrieben wird
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