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Old 06-13-2005, 11:09 PM   #2521
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I'm not Hebeki... but some people think all Filipinos are related anyway.

The bones are shaved down hard universals made for the first MR4TC(the old belt drive)... so far these have served us well. No more annoying pins breaking... so I guess it's a good thing. Oh yeah, shaved because they are not direct fit replacements... a few mm longer but does fit nicely once "shaved" down.

(oops... you guys post too fast! Sorry Matt, sorry Hebeki... )
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Old 06-13-2005, 11:10 PM   #2522
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since they have the end of the dogbone ground down I'm guessing they're the yokomo hardened universals
Matt have you got the Part-No.?
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Old 06-13-2005, 11:13 PM   #2523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darulor
Matt have you got the Part-No.?
you'd think I'd write it down with all the times I've been asked but sorry, I don't have it. I know Pops does because he's the one I always end up asking
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Old 06-13-2005, 11:14 PM   #2524
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Originally Posted by darulor
Matt have you got the Part-No.?
here you go:
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=240&id=1235
part #:ZS-010FH
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Old 06-13-2005, 11:24 PM   #2525
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thanks
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Old 06-13-2005, 11:25 PM   #2526
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Somebody interested in it?
Hmmm... no thanks Randy. I'm pretty devoted to my ProTrak30 -JB
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Old 06-14-2005, 01:15 AM   #2527
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There's been alot of discussion here about charging and discharging. Indeed there's alot of equipment on the market, some good, some not so good.

If you look through the battery specific threads on here you will see a discussion as to whether it is good to zero some of todays cells or not, so to be safe I wouldn't touch a tray that only zeros your cells. In any case, unless you own a goldmine it's not practical anyway because whilst the cells may be better for a while, they will degenerate far quicker.

Another thing. Beware of discharging packs with just a lead on the positive and another on the negative of the 7.2 volt pack. Remember this is discharging the pack as a whole and not each cell independently.

Why do I say this. No matter how much you look after your cells, and no matter how good they are, they inevitably mismatch a bit with each cycle. For argument's sake, let's say one particular cell ends a run 0.5 below the other 5 cells. This can easily happen if you don't equalise each time you discharge. You discharge your pack with a 2 lead discharger which discharges to a set total voltage. If for example that voltage is 3 volts then you have not discharged the pack to read 0.5 per cell. The cell that started lower will drop below zero to give you your average of 0.5 per cell - and you can put your pack in the bin. This is why I say you need a tray which discharges each cell independently and to a pre determined voltage. Also a 2 lead pack discharger will never equalize and I think that equalising is far more important than just discharging.

Let me give another example, and this was explained to me by one of the worlds leading battery men. Compare your pack of 6 cells to 6 strong men pulling a truck. All 6 are pulling, but nobody can vouch that they are all pulling equally. If one is pulling far more or far less than the remaining 5 nobody will know, but the truck will still be moved.

Now get each man to pull the truck seperately and measure their pulling power. Now you will know how much each man is pulling. It's the same with your battery pack and dischargers. Think about it. it makes sense.

Notice that I haven't mentioned any specific brands of equipment because I don't wish this to turn into a "my charger is better than yours" affair, like threads have a habbit of doing here.

Perhaps I should have been talking Yokes here, but I thought I'd put my little bit in, seeing there's been alot of discussion on the subject right here.
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Old 06-14-2005, 07:47 AM   #2528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbull
There's been alot of discussion here about charging and discharging. Indeed there's alot of equipment on the market, some good, some not so good.

If you look through the battery specific threads on here you will see a discussion as to whether it is good to zero some of todays cells or not, so to be safe I wouldn't touch a tray that only zeros your cells. In any case, unless you own a goldmine it's not practical anyway because whilst the cells may be better for a while, they will degenerate far quicker.

Another thing. Beware of discharging packs with just a lead on the positive and another on the negative of the 7.2 volt pack. Remember this is discharging the pack as a whole and not each cell independently.

Why do I say this. No matter how much you look after your cells, and no matter how good they are, they inevitably mismatch a bit with each cycle. For argument's sake, let's say one particular cell ends a run 0.5 below the other 5 cells. This can easily happen if you don't equalise each time you discharge. You discharge your pack with a 2 lead discharger which discharges to a set total voltage. If for example that voltage is 3 volts then you have not discharged the pack to read 0.5 per cell. The cell that started lower will drop below zero to give you your average of 0.5 per cell - and you can put your pack in the bin. This is why I say you need a tray which discharges each cell independently and to a pre determined voltage. Also a 2 lead pack discharger will never equalize and I think that equalising is far more important than just discharging.

Let me give another example, and this was explained to me by one of the worlds leading battery men. Compare your pack of 6 cells to 6 strong men pulling a truck. All 6 are pulling, but nobody can vouch that they are all pulling equally. If one is pulling far more or far less than the remaining 5 nobody will know, but the truck will still be moved.

Now get each man to pull the truck seperately and measure their pulling power. Now you will know how much each man is pulling. It's the same with your battery pack and dischargers. Think about it. it makes sense.

Notice that I haven't mentioned any specific brands of equipment because I don't wish this to turn into a "my charger is better than yours" affair, like threads have a habbit of doing here.

Perhaps I should have been talking Yokes here, but I thought I'd put my little bit in, seeing there's been alot of discussion on the subject right here.
YUP you are right.....equalizing is indeed a must.
I use the spintech to help decrystalize and to get the valuable information on that pack and once it is finished the pack is down to 5.4V. Then I store them. Before a race day I equalize my packs on a tray and let each cell get right as rain before a charge hits them, that way each cell gets all that it can take.
A new charger coming out in August will have individual cell charging so now there is an even better way to keep your cells the best that they can be....

Hebiki: Here is what else I saw...
1) Your Corally plug needs a re-solder
2) Your shock body or shock cap needs to be replaced as one or both probably has been stripped of its threads.
&
3) A Arm is toast.
that is all I can see that needs work except what you already suggested.
Not too bad on breakage though, I wonder if you had a Rubberneck or extra wide bumper how much less would have been broken????? LOL
Have fun guys this is suppose to be a hobby.
-Stephen <><
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Old 06-14-2005, 10:39 AM   #2529
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Shookie, I sent an e-mail to Tres Leonard and he designed me something real quick. Very nice guy. Thanks for that one.
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:29 AM   #2530
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Ya dont need an aftermarket bumper if you would just not slam into those poor nitro cars Chris!
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:33 AM   #2531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Ya dont need an aftermarket bumper if you would just not slam into those poor nitro cars Chris!
OUCH!!.. play nice Randy..... BTW I have a few things that you might want..aka.. it`s for your bearings

-Dave
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:40 AM   #2532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
YUP you are right.....equalizing is indeed a must.
I use the spintech to help decrystalize and to get the valuable information on that pack and once it is finished the pack is down to 5.4V. Then I store them. Before a race day I equalize my packs on a tray and let each cell get right as rain before a charge hits them, that way each cell gets all that it can take.
A new charger coming out in August will have individual cell charging so now there is an even better way to keep your cells the best that they can be....

Hebiki: Here is what else I saw...
1) Your Corally plug needs a re-solder
2) Your shock body or shock cap needs to be replaced as one or both probably has been stripped of its threads.
&
3) A Arm is toast.
that is all I can see that needs work except what you already suggested.
Not too bad on breakage though, I wonder if you had a Rubberneck or extra wide bumper how much less would have been broken????? LOL
Have fun guys this is suppose to be a hobby.
-Stephen <><
Hope he knows where his outdrive is; don't see it on the car or table.

Ran my BD for the first time this weekend. Placed first in all 3 qualifying rounds which qualified me for 3rd in the A. Finished 3rd and would have done better had it not been for a 3rd turn pile up that sent my car tumbling. Not bad for not racing onroad since Christmas. Car was super easy to drive. Car fared pretty well, bent both front inner hinge pins and a rear long ball stud and a couple bearings feel gritty. Anyone know if there are some hinge pins available that are a little bit stronger? Besides the wreck in the main, I only tapped the pipes hard once.
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:48 AM   #2533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
OUCH!!.. play nice Randy..... BTW I have a few things that you might want..aka.. it`s for your bearings

-Dave
I ordered the Kose stick, but it was on backorder from RCModel, but I know you got that other thing that I cant get from there
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:49 AM   #2534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NismoSkyline17
Hope he knows where his outdrive is; don't see it on the car or table.

Ran my BD for the first time this weekend. Placed first in all 3 qualifying rounds which qualified me for 3rd in the A. Finished 3rd and would have done better had it not been for a 3rd turn pile up that sent my car tumbling. Not bad for not racing onroad since Christmas. Car was super easy to drive. Car fared pretty well, bent both front inner hinge pins and a rear long ball stud and a couple bearings feel gritty. Anyone know if there are some hinge pins available that are a little bit stronger? Besides the wreck in the main, I only tapped the pipes hard once.
I dont think anyone makes aftermarket hingepins, at least nobody that I know of. But you could buy some drill blanks and cut hingepins to length, those should be super strong, but possibly a little brittle.
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Old 06-14-2005, 12:07 PM   #2535
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For those interested...
RcModel has the Excel Delrin diff for the SD/BD instock.
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