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Old 05-19-2005, 03:00 AM   #1921
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I got a Bd yesterday and started building it and I have a couple questions/ comments. Everyone has been pretty helpful here and I want to thank you guys for answering my questions. First question was about the front kingpin. I noticed when I screwed it in that the hex wouldn't sit flush so I used a plastic washer and it fits better now. The manual doesn't say to use one, just wondering if y'all had to do that also. Oh, and is there some secret to getting the pin that holds the hexes in and out other than scratching the crap out of the hex to get a wrench in there and pull the o-ring out of the way? Kind of a pain. I have only built the car up to the shocks( damn work), so that's where my questions are going to stop. My one gripe with this car so far has to do with a dogbone. For whatever reason, one of them was machined wrong and the coupler doesn't fit into the dogbone( yes I'm sure I built it right, I've been building cvd's for ten or so years). So I have to go get a new one. I guess the silver lining is at least I didn't screw up and so I have that going for me. other than that, pretty nice car. I'm used to building Losi buggies and trucks so this has been a new experience.
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Old 05-19-2005, 03:10 AM   #1922
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Chris Brown :

my top kingpin also doesn't sit flush with the c-hubs, i never bothered to put a spacer, and i haven't had any problems with it so far...

with regards to the pin in the hex, i just push out the pin with the o-ring still in the hex... you can service the CVD's without removing the o-rings.

a few pages back, people suggested to remove some material on the inner portion of the front axles to minimize the chance that the CVD pins breaking... hope this helps
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Old 05-19-2005, 03:34 AM   #1923
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Thanks. It's not impossible to get the pin out, but it will get annoying quick. I guess I wouldn't have to disassemble it very often. I'm used to offroad and a lot of cvd/axle bearing maintenance.
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Old 05-19-2005, 07:28 AM   #1924
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chris Brown
Thanks. It's not impossible to get the pin out, but it will get annoying quick. I guess I wouldn't have to disassemble it very often. I'm used to offroad and a lot of cvd/axle bearing maintenance.
I have found that the MIP 1.5 mm wrench is the exact fit as the pin in the hex so I just push it through. Not real hard at all...takes one second. Just thought I would share....Also I went back to the SD style king pins and put the ball stud on the c hub like the SD. It works fine and I didn't notice a difference either...Well I had to re setup my car to make sure it was at the same possisions.
Hoep thsi helps,
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Old 05-19-2005, 07:47 AM   #1925
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Thanks man, I'll try the 1.5 mm wrench. Randy Caster gave me a couple ratios to try to gearing, wondering what anyone is running for a monster stock in 64P as Randy runs mod and wasn't sure of gear ratios for stock. Thanks again.
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Old 05-19-2005, 07:54 AM   #1926
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chris Brown
Thanks man, I'll try the 1.5 mm wrench. Randy Caster gave me a couple ratios to try to gearing, wondering what anyone is running for a monster stock in 64P as Randy runs mod and wasn't sure of gear ratios for stock. Thanks again.
For Stock I like anything in the 6.5-7.5 range and I am movign to a 112 tooth spur so 30, 32, 32,33,34 will cover all the way through those...
Here is a link to a gear chart maker.
Just select the Yokomo BD in the drop down menu and then select the spur and pinion and the rest is magic...
LOL
http://www.gearchart.com/index.cfm?f...n=chart.create
Hope this helps.
a gear ratio depends on the track too so don't be afraid to try one pinion and do some tests.
If the car is whinding out too soon go up a tooth or two..If it is getting way too hot drop a tooth and keep an eye on the temp.
Some tracks are brutal on motors even when the gearing is perfect.
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Old 05-19-2005, 08:01 AM   #1927
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Cool, thanks. Does anyone know if Socal got sorex 36 R's in yet?
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Old 05-19-2005, 08:06 AM   #1928
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Originally posted by Chris Brown
Cool, thanks. Does anyone know if Socal got sorex 36 R's in yet?
Good luck....aything 36 is scarse right now...
I think people are ordering from HK right now...I think there is a few places that have RP36s which work pretty good too.
Someone told me EA Motorsports has some...
I am good so I can wait a bit longer...
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Old 05-19-2005, 08:07 AM   #1929
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I'm not going to panic. It'll take me about another month before I finish the car and get the rest of my stuff together. Just trying to check tires off my list of gear needed.
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Old 05-19-2005, 08:12 AM   #1930
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Originally posted by Chris Brown
I'm not going to panic. It'll take me about another month before I finish the car and get the rest of my stuff together. Just trying to check tires off my list of gear needed.
I just checked EA and he does have some RP36 premount right now.
I think you will be impressed with the BD once you get it on the track...SoCal is a monster on cars so really don't get discuraged if it doesn;t handle as well as you like....The box stock setup is pretty close but you can use more steering at SoCal. I am not the person to ask about a SoCal setup...I don;t like flat to oval transissions. Just me I guess.
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Old 05-19-2005, 08:19 AM   #1931
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Thanks. The last tc I drove was a street weapon a long time ago so as long as it handles better than that car( which wouldn't be hard) I'll be happy with it. I do plan to run less toe in on the rear. I am an offroad racer for a long time and so I am pretty sure I'll want a looser feeling setup.
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Old 05-19-2005, 09:06 AM   #1932
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chris Brown
Thanks. It's not impossible to get the pin out, but it will get annoying quick. I guess I wouldn't have to disassemble it very often. I'm used to offroad and a lot of cvd/axle bearing maintenance.
If you are talking about the silver pin that goes into the hex, all you need to do is use a small allen wrench and push the pin out past the O ring. When installing the hex, insert the pin a little ways past the O ring so that it stays, then push the pin all the way once the hex is on all the way.
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Old 05-19-2005, 09:10 AM   #1933
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chris Brown
Thanks. It's not impossible to get the pin out, but it will get annoying quick. I guess I wouldn't have to disassemble it very often. I'm used to offroad and a lot of cvd/axle bearing maintenance.
Your front bearings on a sedan will wear pretty quickly, hits on boards as well as the stress and load of turning. The bearings will need to be cleaned and re-lubed often to get any life out of them.
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:29 AM   #1934
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Hi guys,

I am also a new proud owner of the yokomo bd. Being an ex-owner of a sd cgm, all i can say is "Wow, this car is bloody quick".

I wonder if anyone has this feeling too. The included 3 degree rear toe in block gives the car alot of grip but it's making the rear end grip unpredictable, after fitting a 2 degree block the rear seem to settle down alot more.

I also notice that the bd has a 1mm spacer on all the hingeblock. If anyone here could please tell me what does removing this spacer affectively does to the handling of the car, it would be most appreciated.

All in all, I like this car alot and hopefully u guys here can help me out with setup as i am the only guy in my club or area running a bd (most guys in my club uses a xray fk04 and I'm trying to convience them to move camp with the bd :P ).

Cheers.
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:33 AM   #1935
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Btw, here's a photo of my BD.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bd 005.jpg (49.8 KB, 192 views)
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