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Old 02-21-2005, 05:18 PM   #1
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Default solder batteries

how do u solder battereis together they don't stick.
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Old 02-21-2005, 05:30 PM   #2
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Well you need a really good soldering iron, that is not from radioshack, you need something that is around 40w and up, and it has to be able to output temperatures up to 850 degree thats the minimmum. after that everything should be easy, you should also get a dean battery jig if this is your first time soldering batteries together. I recommend Weller, you can get 40w and will go 900 for 20 dollars at a local electronic shop.
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Old 02-21-2005, 05:34 PM   #3
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well the solder won't stay on the battery
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Old 02-21-2005, 05:36 PM   #4
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i'm afriad i might be burning the battery
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:10 PM   #5
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Then there are a couple of possibilities, first thing, try sanding the surface of the battery that you're trying to solder, & then see if it works better(roughing up the surface can make it a bit easier for solder to stick to it), & the other is just make sure you have a strong iron, absolute minimum of 40 watts, & temps well over 800 degrees F.. If you have both & still have trouble, you can also try getting some solder flux(you can find some at most electronics stores, including Radio Shack)....Oh, & you're right to be concerned, you don't want to heold the iron's tip to the cell for more than 2-4 seconds, much more & you do run the risk of damaging the cell internally(which is why powerful irons are highly reccomended, they can do it in a couple of seconds or less)......
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:14 PM   #6
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scrap the flux build up off the cell ends, this could cause the solder not to stick
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:44 PM   #7
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what type of solder and soldering iron are you using?
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Old 02-21-2005, 08:14 PM   #8
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Default Kester Solder!

Kester, or Dean's is the only solder you should be using to solder packs together properly, and use a wide tip 40+ watt iron, roughen the pos & neg of the cells, tin them, and use a deans jig and use the little battery hold down lever that comes with it to hold the bars, lay the flat side of the iron on top of a bit of solder on the bar till it flows over/in the bar to the battery.
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Old 02-21-2005, 08:18 PM   #9
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well i soldered the batterries together i hope. (what I mean is I hope the sticky brown stuff on it is not the reason why it is together but i doub it) Also i bought the duratrax Ice and smc 3300 today. I tried charging but when i turned on my car the steering was messed up and the throttle did not work. Also who here uses the duratrax ice and knows how to use it. i need help i'm reading the manual now. but its makes no sense.
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Old 02-21-2005, 08:33 PM   #10
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Well this is probaly going to be a short thread. But I finally found out how to work the charger with my new cells. OMG! THIS IS PROBALY ONE OF THE BEST INVESTMENTS I HAVE EVER MADE IN RC! I have never used matched batterries before. My car has alot more punch, run time, and SPEED!
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Old 02-22-2005, 10:58 AM   #11
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I'm still a newb with all the features the ICE gives. So here are some stupid questions. What does it mean to cycle,re-peak charge,reflex charge. Also when I discharge it gets really hot is that bad?
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Old 02-22-2005, 11:12 AM   #12
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axle-

I'm not the best person to answer your questions about the various charge modes, but the manual does a very good job of explaining the dangers of misapplying the various modes to the wrong types of batteries. Re-read it again from cover to cover for comprehension, and keep the charger in front of you for reference.

As to the charger getting hot, I firmly believe that the stock cooling fan is insufficient for the heat it's dissipating, especially with a high-voltage matched pack at full current. I'm using a Radio Shack (shudder) 5 1/2" 120V AC muffin fan that I place behind the charger during discharge, and it does a better job of keeping the charger cool. It still gets very hot, though.

Good luck with the new toys!!

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Old 02-22-2005, 11:15 AM   #13
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so its alright if it gets hot when discharging.
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Old 02-23-2005, 08:39 PM   #14
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The ice manual says to charge the batts after every run does that require even when i'm not going to run it
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Old 02-23-2005, 09:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by axel
The ice manual says to charge the batts after every run does that require even when i'm not going to run it
If your running every week then you should leave about half a charge in them.
If you are not going to be using them for longer than a week, then you should leave them fully charged.
In either case, the best way to care for them is to discharge them the night before you race. Equalize them if possible.
Then charge them the day of the race.
If you have not used some batteries in a while, you may have to cycle them a couple of times before they return to max form.
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