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Old 07-01-2012, 06:16 PM   #46
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It's one of the things that annoys me about the F1 brigade that so many are so heavily devoted to "scale appearance"... some of the sticker kits can be $50+... add a $30 body plus some paint and good bye $90-$100 for a body that will get the crap belted out of it by some hack 3 corners into it's first race ... no thanks... I'd rather save my money and make sure I have that new set of tyres to put on for the final
There appears to be four distinct groups regarding the scale appearance of bodies.

Firstly there are those who aren't interested in scale appearance at all and will either spend time to demonstrate their painting skills or spend considerably more money than the cost of scale replicas to buy very non scale paint schemes, just ask for a quote from one of the pro painters and see how much they cost. They run whatever is cool and trendy, with no connection to full size cars at all.

Next there is the F1 scale bunch, who want everyone to run a replica paint scheme from a full size car. There is a small number of them and they seem to be very vocal in the f1 forums and come across as doing everything possible to promote f1paintlab. Then again, the same people insist we should all be running narrow f1s on rubber as well.

Then at the other end of the scale are comments like yours and YR4Dude earlier, who are complaining about the cost of a scale like body and don't seem to be happy unless you can run with a cheap simple one coat paint scheme. Strangely enough this is actually considerably more scale than the current tribal vomit in touring cars and what a lot of us would actually prefer. Or is cost not the problem and you want to run whatever you want, which puts you in with the tribal vomit group.

Finally there are those of us who couldn't care less how scale accurate the paint colour and stickers are, but we would prefer they didn't look like someone has thrown everything they have at the body.

The paint scheme doesn't have to use accurate stickers, nor does it have to be an actual replica, just as long as it looks like it might be able to be painted on a full size body.

Here's a link to a 2008 Le Mans spotters guide
of the cars, the one thing you can notice is that out of 36 cars, 9 of them are just a single colour and 6 of them have no stickers on them. There is nothing to say a 'scale' body has to have correct stickers, or even any stickers at all. One tin of blue paint will get you an Autocon Creation replica paint scheme.

In reality you are arguing for exactly the same thing as those of us who want something more scale like, in other words simpler paint schemes just like the Marlboro style Blackart Pacemaker and Mowhawk shown earlier with the random stickers on them. Whether there are any stickers on it, or what the stickers say, is irrelevant as you can't read any of them as the car speeds past you.
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Old 07-01-2012, 06:59 PM   #47
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Back to the subject of bodies themselves, the only reason we have pan car bodies with upswept rear sections is because that's what works best. In the days of the TOJ we used to run separate rear wings and a lot of the TOJ bodies had a shallow rear kick up, but everyone moved to the built in rear spoiler because that is what was fastest.

Cefx tried to change things with the C-LMP900

This got lots of people interested in trying it, because it looked so much better than other bodies, and a lot of them were sold, but as it wasn't as fast as the Zytek on the track it dies off shortly afterwards.

Tamiya has rereleased the Toyota Toms, which has a separate rear wing which is attached between the rear fins


It does work on the Tamiya 1/12th scale, but the tyre combination is different to normal 1/12ths and unfortunately most racers would just swap bodies to try it rather than spend time working out the tyre combination that would work best with the new body.

It would be nice to see more shells like these, but whether there is a decent market for them is another matter.
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Old 07-02-2012, 06:01 AM   #48
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Here are a couple of 1/12th b'shells that I used a few years ago:

Parma Zytek:



and the CEFX mentioned above:



And here is the Zytek 04s that I copied the colour scheme from:



I did like this colour scheme but I guess I also fell into the fashionable 'trible vomit' look, as my newer b'shells are like that also!

Cheers,

Chris.

PS: Those CEFX b'shells were known to have that whole rear wing ripped off in a crash, so I did n't cut the 'holes' out from it and just used masking tape to make it look like it was cut out. Used to get a ton of rear traction from doing that aslo!!
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:55 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by terry.sc View Post
Cefx tried to change things with the C-LMP900

This got lots of people interested in trying it, because it looked so much better than other bodies, and a lot of them were sold, but as it wasn't as fast as the Zytek on the track it dies off shortly afterwards.
I loved this body; I still have mine as well, thick lexan and held up. Gave a push to the car but looks great!
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Old 07-02-2012, 12:54 PM   #50
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Nice scale bodies don't have to be expensive. When I first started racing pan cars most companies had bodies that were reasonably scale and were only $20-$30 each. HPI still makes reasonably scale bodies for TC that are normally priced. The only reason scale bodies are so expensive in F1 and pan car is because pretty much only Tamiya makes them. The FGX body is reasonably scale and at full retail is only $30 and street price even less.
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:35 PM   #51
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are these bodies legal in ROAR 12th scale?...
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:06 PM   #52
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I'm liking this discussion.

One thing I've noticed is that a lot of the high performance bodies from people like Black Art only come in light weight versions, and they get damaged so much more easily. It takes all day to paint a nice body, but if they are damaged easily it's really depressing, and a big reason for one colour paint jobs.

Still, I don't mind how other people paint their bodies. It's up to them. The only thing that does really bug me is when people don't paint the driver figure properly. Painting the driver figure in the same one colour as the surrounding shell is the equivalent to not masking the windows.
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:07 AM   #53
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Just wish some of the "old bodies" were still made. Back in the 80's I use to race a 1/12 with a Porsche 917 body. Painted it up to look like the Gulf factory car and had a blast. Did I win? No but didn't care, I was there to have fun. Bodies don't need to be exact scale realistic, but need variety to represent real racing! Everyone running the same body is BORING, just like TC. If the Tamiya 956 fit regular 1/12 chassis I would run it in a minute!
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:03 PM   #54
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It just might now tnewlon...just a few years back normal 1/12th cars had a much shorter wheelbase than the Tamiya so it wouldn't fit. But now with the in-line battery configurations that most manufacturers have gone to the wheelbase has been extended so it might just fit. FYI - Frewer made a copy of the Tamiya 956 body that they shortened to fit normal 1/12th cars.
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Old 09-03-2012, 04:38 PM   #55
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Just wish some of the "old bodies" were still made.
Andys RC has started up again, making his Mercedes C11 bodies. http://shop.andysrc.com/main.sc
Bob Stormer has got Parma to pull some Schkee and Osella shells as well.
If you want a 956, you can buy the Tamiya body from Tower. The 956 has a 201mm wheelbase and is 165mm wide.
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:04 PM   #56
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Andys RC has started up again, making his Mercedes C11 bodies. http://shop.andysrc.com/main.sc
Bob Stormer has got Parma to pull some Schkee and Osella shells as well.
If you want a 956, you can buy the Tamiya body from Tower. The 956 has a 201mm wheelbase and is 165mm wide.
What is the performance of that Andy's RC body like? And what's the deal with the "optional front wing"?
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:47 PM   #57
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What is the performance of that Andy's RC body like? And what's the deal with the "optional front wing"?
if you look at pictures of a real C11 you'll see the difference and what the "wing" is referring too

reall c11 - http://dayerses.com/data_images/post...des-c11-11.jpg

note that this one has a High down force gurney flap attached to the trailing edge of the "wing" - http://ww1.prweb.com/prfiles/2006/02...cedesimage.jpg

In reality the Andy's body hasn't filled in the area which would've been for the radiators in that particular car, which reduces frontal area and probably gives less drag and down force and by including the "wing" it can change the frontal area as well as use it a crude diffuser as well to try and increase the front down force
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Old 09-03-2012, 11:22 PM   #58
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everybody gives me crap about my paint but many many moons ago I did care about the paint on my bodies and I have a tamiya porsche 956 that I painted up dyson colors and a canon porsche that I painted.




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Old 09-03-2012, 11:37 PM   #59
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The problem with a body not having enough down force for the average person to have fun is that the average person thinks that the only way to have fun is to go 700 scale mph with soda sprayed all over the track as traction compound so they can take a tight corner at 400 scale mph.
I'm not really going to pick your post apart, but I think that yours, as well as 99% of the r/c population's understanding of "scale speed" is wrong. I won't bore you to death, but to get the true scale speed of a 1/10th scale model, whether it is a plane, boat, or car, just take the actual top speed of the full scale model, say 180 mph for a Formula car or DTM car and multiply that number by 0.36--in this case, your 1/10th scale model should be able to do 65 mph to have "scale" top speed.

If you want to read up on more detail, here is a very condensed version of the explanation:
http://www.astroflight.com/pdfs/ScaleSpeed.pdf

Also, on the topic of bodies--again, I won't bore people with the physics--but in order for a 1/10th scale bodes to "work" like it's full size counterparts, it has to to be run at 10 atm vs. 1 atm in order for the same Reynolds numbers to be valid.

Last but not least, there are aero effects happening to r/c vehicles down to speeds of 15mph, but it's mostly due to drag shifting the weight balance of the vehicle rather than downforce (negative lift).

Again, for the engineers out there, you know what I'm talking about, so don't really pick this post apart too much, just posting some bullet points to give some insight on to how aerodynamics work at scale.
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:35 AM   #60
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I'm not really going to pick your post apart, but I think that yours, as well as 99% of the r/c population's understanding of "scale speed" is wrong. I won't bore you to death, but to get the true scale speed of a 1/10th scale model, whether it is a plane, boat, or car, just take the actual top speed of the full scale model, say 180 mph for a Formula car or DTM car and multiply that number by 0.36--in this case, your 1/10th scale model should be able to do 65 mph to have "scale" top speed.

If you want to read up on more detail, here is a very condensed version of the explanation:
http://www.astroflight.com/pdfs/ScaleSpeed.pdf

Also, on the topic of bodies--again, I won't bore people with the physics--but in order for a 1/10th scale bodes to "work" like it's full size counterparts, it has to to be run at 10 atm vs. 1 atm in order for the same Reynolds numbers to be valid.

Last but not least, there are aero effects happening to r/c vehicles down to speeds of 15mph, but it's mostly due to drag shifting the weight balance of the vehicle rather than downforce (negative lift).

Again, for the engineers out there, you know what I'm talking about, so don't really pick this post apart too much, just posting some bullet points to give some insight on to how aerodynamics work at scale.
Good read
It's always interesting to see things from an engineering perspective
http://www.rc-pancar.co.uk/index.php?topic=93.0
Some detail into the effects of DF on an RC car
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