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Old 06-18-2012, 03:45 PM   #16
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The track actually belongs to the the Hobbytown USA in Fresno they carry tc6.1 stuff tamiya ta05 ber2 and the ta06 parts and the tc4. I will be running 17.5 sportsman or novice. A poster above said the belt cars are really only faster when running 13.5 or faster? As another poster said I'm not a complete noob I do race off road regularly and I'm usually front half of the pack. I will probably end up with a tc4 then and just stick my vtx10r with whatever 17.5 I can get my hands on. Thanks for the help guys.
I have driven both the ta05(belt) and tb03(shaft) and I can say at 17.5lbinky speeds, the shaft felt faster. this is probably due to the drivetrain having less drag and the direct throttle feel. I drove the same car in 13.5 boosted, and it couldn't put the traction down as much as a belt did.
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:08 PM   #17
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Tc4 it is then. The gt2 17.5 class is highly competitive and has good turn outs. They have 2 classes for the gt2 category novice and sportsman and both classes are packed
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:22 PM   #18
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after some more research looking at a tamiya ta06 pro kit
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:41 PM   #19
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Quick run down on some of the brands.

Xray - Top quality, very durable, very expensive, beginners benefit from the pure quality and strength of the parts, but you pay for it.
Tamiya - Top quality with TRF (416/417), very fragile (hard hard plastics), very expensive. If not TRF (TA05/TA06), quality is less, as is price, phillips screws make for sad pandas, Tamiya upgrades are the most expensive. TRF cars are some of the best designed and fastest cars, but they do not take impact well (417 c-hubs break if you look at them funny) and are not as suited to beginners. The TA06 is more durable, but signifigantly less of a car as well, and the upgrade path is very expensive.
Associated - Good quality, mid range durability, mid range price. TC6.1 is a good solid car, overkill for a beginner. TC4 you will outgrow if you plan on continuing onroad racing as you are more limited on adjustments and torque steer becomes an issue with faster motors. TC5 is inexpensive, parts support is good, and a good mix of durability, quality, and speed as you are starting out.
3Racing - Good quality (not sure about the other guys FGX issues, but fit and function was perfect on my Zero), maybe slightly below AE durability, but parts are dirt cheap, though availability is more limited (2 or 3 US retailers, rest in China).
HPI - Low quality, cheap parts, not much for racing above VTA/USGT (think Sprint 2, not TCX)
Ofna - JL10 is cheap...cheap everything, I would not recommend.

With 17.5, i would recommend belt drive just so you are not fighting torque steer. My personal recommendation is this. Chassis's do not hold their value, especially compared to electronics. Buy cheap if you insist on new, or buy something mid-range used (Xray T2, AE TC5, etc). Go in planning on seeing if you like it. If you don't, the chassis is a loss, and the electronics can be used in offroad or maintain their used value decently. If you like onroad, the chassis is still a loss, pick up something higher end, swap your eletronics. I'd suggest sticking to a brand you like, and one that is supported by local racers first, LHS second.

I started with a used TC3, ended up buying a new Sakura, fully optioned it, then upgraded again to a Serpent. Took a loss each step in the chassis, but also learned enough about the cars and setups that I can appreciate what the higher end car gives me, as well as drive it decently enough that I am not going broke replacing parts.
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Old 06-23-2012, 02:54 PM   #20
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after some more research looking at a tamiya ta06 pro kit
this is a very good kit. comes with TRF shocks,cvds, many nice pieces, I know of some that race out of the box and place very well against high end cars. But of course we're talking about driver skills here too.
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:36 PM   #21
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I would look into the xray t3r
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Old 06-24-2012, 07:59 AM   #22
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First time on road here as well. I took my tc6 half a** put together this Friday at the same track and I'm happy with it. Stock manual set up, it's very very nimble and forgiving. At first I did hit 2 pipes head on and nothing broke. On the other hand I saw several tamiyas dropping like dead flies with broken arms, hubs, links. They don't really have parts for any cars at he moment so I would say buy a lightly used tc6 here with a grip of parts and be done. I was skeptical about belts as well, but after my first time there and even with tiny 64 pitch 94/31 gearing I did not pick up anything in the belts or spur.
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:46 AM   #23
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First time on road here as well. I took my tc6 half a** put together this Friday at the same track and I'm happy with it. Stock manual set up, it's very very nimble and forgiving. At first I did hit 2 pipes head on and nothing broke. On the other hand I saw several tamiyas dropping like dead flies with broken arms, hubs, links. They don't really have parts for any cars at he moment so I would say buy a lightly used tc6 here with a grip of parts and be done. I was skeptical about belts as well, but after my first time there and even with tiny 64 pitch 94/31 gearing I did not pick up anything in the belts or spur.
+1 on your choice! it's always smart to do some research on what chassis has parts available at your LHS. doesn't hurt to stock up on a pair of front arms, and hardware. Cabon reinforce arms are more brittle that stock arms. I usually ran the stock arms (not a weigh weinee)
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Old 06-24-2012, 10:17 AM   #24
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after some more research looking at a tamiya ta06 pro kit
I've been running a TA-05 V2 for the last year. For my level of driving skill, the price was right [I bought new]. I'd been running a TT-01 that I bought second hand in a novice spec class. I wanted to build my new car from scratch so I'd know how the bits fit together better. The TA-05 was a large step up from the TT-01. The TA-06 is an improvement over the TA-05 V2 and probably has a longer product life left. The TA-06 is a little over a year since introduction where the TA-05 line has been around since 6 or 7 years.

Tamiya front ends are quite fragile. The only good news is the parts to repair things are inexpensive. I plan on breaking a C-hub & steering upright every race day. Before I went to carbon-reinforced parts, it could happen more than once a race day. Stock suspension arms seem to be OK since other parts break first. Stock front steering uprights & C-hubs are the weak point. I highly recommend the carbon-reinforced parts. They still break before the suspension arms but last a lot longer. I put a cut-yourself wider, firmer front bumper on from Parma that helped a good bit. Still, if you hit something on the side where a front wheel is turned out, something is likely to break. As my driving has improved, the amount of breakage has gone done a good bit but it is still too high, in my opinion, compared the guys running XRays and other higher end cars.

I've included all the above since the TA-05 V2 and TA-06 use the same front suspension & steering parts so expect similar results. You may do better since your driving skills are probably better than mine since you have been running off-road. I am still re-learning driving skills after a 20 year absence from racing.
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:44 PM   #25
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I run an AE TC4 and a 3Racing Sakura Zero S, both with upgrades. The TC4 is my VTA car. It is very capable for that class and would also be a good choice for a Sportsman class. I run the Sakura in 17.5. With the right tires and set up, it is more than able to keep up with the Xrays, TC5/6, etc. Quality and durability is very good on both the TC4 and Sakura, especially for their low cost. I wouldn't bother with anything else in that price range (a TA06 might be okay too). Otherwise, you'll probably be looking at cars that cost twice as much. Set a budget and then make a choice!

Also, look at this first car as a stepping stone. Figure out if you like on-road enough to warrant a more serious investment later. There's a long learning curve and it will take a while to develop the necessary skill to become competitive.

Another bit of advice, choose a car that other local racers use. If you break something, they will have spare parts to take advantage of.

Lastly, don't even consider the TT01. It is only good for a TT01 specific class. It's very low in adjustability and only a step up or two over toy grade R/C.

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Old 07-13-2012, 02:16 PM   #26
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I ended up getting an XRAY T1FK05 with a TON of spares and all the bling pieces on it. Awesome car, super durable easy to drive and even easier to set up
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:19 PM   #27
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I ended up getting an XRAY T1FK05 with a TON of spares and all the bling pieces on it. Awesome car, super durable easy to drive and even easier to set up
have fun GL
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