Iceman 69

thanks guys, what are the effects of too much caster? on foams i normaly run 6 deg caster blocks

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

less caster will give you more initial steering and less steering coming out of the corner.

mwoods

sorry if this has been asked before is there any news of a new tc coming out??....

thanks

cherry2blost

iTrader: (1)

LOL it'll probably be just a LiPo update, the cyclone seems to be as good as it gets anyway, why change for changes sake?

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

the car was abit loose tdy so I decided to chk the rear toe. I assumed it would be even 3deg to block and all Right? I was wrong is there a way to get equal toe settings? I am using bew uprights.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Check your hinge pins. When those bend a tiny bit, it throws off the toe settings for obvious reasons. There was also a small run of rear hub carriers that werent drilled quite straight. I actually use the aluminum rear hub carriers that HB offers so I never have to worry about that.

-Korey

Tommy Bergfeldt

I've bent a aluminium rear hub carrier quite bad when the wheel catched a trackmarker, toeout on the rear wheels are not that good so i'm back to plastic.
I recieved my Exotek chassie today, i love the lipo fitment and the balance is spot on! However there was no antenna mounting hole and i'd like to see holes drilled for the "2 degree F/R mount" mod The chassie kit is still top notch though!

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I can't say I've been as unfortunate as you Tommy haha. Mine have held up awesome.

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Somebody talk to Barry Baker and see if they can get him to post his Snowbirds set-up.
Really would like to see that .....

gixer

Hi guys,

I'm looking for a little advice on setup.

The car is used for drifting, but i am hoping that setup will be setup no matter what the use.

I am getting a fair amount of understeer on corner entry, i've tried various camber and toe settings but although more camber helped it's still fairly bad.

I've read through a fair section of the posts in this thread and "kick up" gets mentioned a fair bit.
Ad i understand it, this is placing spacers underneath the toe in blocks which has the effect of altering the angle the suspension arms have compared to the ground.


Do you think this would help in my case?


I'd also really appreciate any advice on setup with regards to keeping the car stable while sliding.



Thanks
Mark

05forfun

iTrader: (81)

What tires did you use? I would say try a set of tires which can grip on the ground, then see if your car improve

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

Ok so Now I have tried 5 different plastic rear hubs same effect. So I decided to test the rear toe blk itself same issue.. Hinge pins I changed to new ones. Has anyone tried the Tamiya or Xray ones?

gixer

We are restricted to only 1 set of tyres we can use, obviously these being drift tyres grip is not really much at all.


I have been experimenting with the car today.
At full lock the inner well was resting on the otter edge of the tyre.
The outer wheel resting on the inner edge.

I've dialled in more camber (4.5°) so that the inside wheel is flat at full lock but this gives the outer wheel a lot more camber.


Any suggestions please?

michael.branth

Hi,

Ima gradually getting a good carpet set up sorted out, this is what I ran tonight, some small changes, 2mm under all camber links and no anti-drive. Car was good to drive and I climbed up the order a bit more, 400th of fastest laps.

I am looking for ideas to get more grip on power, the track has two areas I want to improve the set-up, a tight hair pin where when I punch the power the car pushes wide. and a longish sweep where again it can push wide.

2 things I am looking at, shorten front wheel base? chnage to 50wt all round with 3 hole pistons

Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Edit 50 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 1.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF
Shims under suspension blocks: 1mmRear 1mm Front
Droop: 7mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm,
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, MIP's
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm ( long base)
Wheel Hex:

Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 35 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Rear Toe Block:2.5 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1mm
Droop: 6mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard

Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck cut
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: sweep 32
Body: Protoform Mazda 6

cheers mi

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

IMO I'd proly go with a softer shock oil in the front. In my experience that losi oil is thickcompared to other brands. maybe 37.5wt losi all around.