michael.branth

If you have a transmitttier with EPA (end point adjustment) the might just want to take some lock off, then gradually dial it back in as you get used to it. on my Cyclone full lock is %82 but I never go above %76, I run %7o-74 most of the time.

Another thing would be to play with springs and ft shock positions-
On the carpet at Stoke pinks gave tomuch mid-corner for me and going softer and harder both cured it in different says
silver ( softer) took steering away but it took to long for the ft tyres to get to temperature.
Gold (harder) did not cure the problem of 'hooking' as well as the silvers but it did get the tyres warm quicker.
Tuesday night- try whites ( similar to koreys set-up)

Standing the shocks up also reduced the 'hook' may be start with them stood up then take them in each run until it where you want them.

Like Ive said I new to rubber/carpet so I find out my self

cheers,

m

madwestmo

yeah this is one of the changes i made to his setup , i believe i stood the shocks up and they now in 3rd from the top , made the back a little better , some guy told me at the club who ran a tamiya to take the washers out from under the pivot/suspension blocks , i had 1mm under all of them before , he said it would give me alot more grip

michael.branth

Removing the spacers will make the car roll more, I think it depends on where your problem lies, if its initial then doing this may work, however if it mid-corner it may be that it just generates more roll and your car runs out of travel the spins.

This is the case with mine, the weight transfers to the front and loads the out-side wheel, this then lifts the back inside and the car spins, So I am making adjustments at both ends- limting roll at the front: Harder springs, Oil, less shims onbulk-head, and may be more not less under the sus blocks, also anti-dive in the front.

At the rear I seem to prefer silver springs, and I ve also redcued droop so that the back can not come up transfer weight to the front, don'nt go to far though, equal front and back is plenty for me and there not many set ups with less droop in the back,

Another way to just slow everything down is make the car wider, the stock cylone is only about 185mm wide and you can go to 190mm, so even with 1mm spacer on eachside its only 187mm.

laters...

JLock

iTrader: (4)

Has anyone else had issues with the CVD pins constantly backing out of the axle joints? Even with locktite, it back out now about 3 to 5 laps and damages the steering block. Mine issue has been the left front and I ended up changing it to the Cyclone S outdrive/dogbone configuration. Running good now since the switch.

michael.branth

ooh yes, a few times...but not for a while!!

Get some new grub screw as the end distorts and helps them grip, make sure you have a good fitting allen key so you tighen them up properly , re-build and then wrap in shrink wrap, that way even if they come loose they do not go any where, if I rememeber right its 13mm.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the info. It has been getting frustrating especially since I put a new joint and pin in and it still kept doing it. Thought about notching the pin a little to give the grub screw a place to bite the pin and hold it firmly in place. When I decided to put it back in the car, I will heed this advise.

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Korey, what type of servo saver do you run ? One piece alum., two piece alum., or two piece alum. and plastic ? I'm running the alum., plastic but was wondering if maybe I was loseing some steering through the deflection of the plactic arm ?
Thanks

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I ran the one piece aluminum for a while, then I realized every time I ran it my steering would get out of whack every time I hit a wall. Granted... I never ran a servo saver on the servo when I ran the one piece aluminum one. Right now I'm just running the stock setup. It's the plastics top piece, and the aluminum bottom piece.

-Korey

madwestmo

korey i am going to give your setup your posted a few pages back for carpet a go at my next race meeting , anything you would change to make that setup easy to drive for a relative beginner in 13.5t

thanks again

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Change the shims under the camber link to 3mm front, and 2.0mm rear. Maybe stand the rear shock up a hole. That should be pretty good!

-Korey

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

This has plagued my mind for quite some time now. Anti-roll bars. It is obvious that we can manipulate how responsive a roll bar acts i.e when the bar lifts the opposite arm. Does anyone use this as a tuning aid, and what I am refering to is not changing the bar but change at what point the bar acts.

Eample when I lift the right arm 15mm the left arm starts to lift.
How are you guys setting this Kory, Hiro anyone

Question 2
I am all set to go with the FF/FR mod. Am I really expecting to see a big change here? and if so couldnt we have arrived at the same feel with another method i.e rollcenter springs I don't know....

This is what happens when I get a chance to think lol

JR007

Your answer to question 1 I believe is how far through the connector you "poke" the sway bar. The further through, the closer the connector is to the pivot point, and so the more leverage it has. I've never played with it myself. Set and forget for me!

SpidarX

iTrader: (3)

Finally had my first race with my new Cyclone TC. It was awesome! I was only .1 sec off TQ, which is good for me. I used one of Koreys setups, and it was really pretty hooked up. However, the car did have a slight understeer. So I have a general setup question. With a car that is understeering, what end of the car do you generally start with when trying to make changes? Do you try to make changes to the front end to get more grip, or do you make changes to the rear end to reduce the grip at that end?

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Answer #1:
If you look on cyclone TC setup sheets, they have a little spot for the gap on the swaybar links. When you increase this gap, the swaybar becomes more progressive. It takes more suspension travel for the swaybar to really start working because it angles the swaybar up. The smaller this gap is, it makes the swaybar sit flatter. This makes is more linear, and makes it start working earlier in the suspension travel. Generally (read as very generally) feels like running a little stiffer swaybar. Usually when I run a smaller gap, the car feels more responsive and locked in around center.

Answer #2:
The change that made the car feel closer to the suspension block mod, without doing any modification is moving the shock further out on the suspension arm (position #1). The suspension block mod does a lot of small different things that make and overall result of a smoother, more drivable car.

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Be a little more specific and I think I can help you.

First of all, which setup are we referring too?

Second, to figure out what end of the car to work on kind of depends on what the car is doing. If you are looking for more initial steering into the corner, I usually work on the front of the car. If you want more mid-exit steering, I work on the rear of the car.

But like I said, let us know what setup you're running, general track conditions, and I'm sure we can help you out.

-Korey