Stefan-Hpi Uk

To be ohnest, theres not a great deal of difference at all in performance over the Old arms. If you are breaking the new ones alot then go to the old skool ones and give them a try

RCFREAK

iTrader: (20)

As for older and newer arms, the newer arms seems to have a higher content of graphite..more gray in color, making them stiffer, for higher bite traction surfaces.


We have installed the older pro4 arms, which almost look more black in color, meaning more plastic... allowing more flex, usually used on lower traction surfaces.

IMO most wont feel the differance between the softer arms and stiffer arms, but rather see less breakage...

luic

A trick to avoid being broken is boiled in water, it will make them more flexible.
About 10 minutes, is more sufficient.

In other hand, i ran cyclone car from 2006, i´m very happy with results, and performance with it, but lately i wonder if this is being a little behind compared to other brands. Now, for me, is the moment to thinking about the car for next season, the last year, i make an unfortunate series of movements, with Team TOP, and TM, finally end the season with HB, i do not want it happening again.
Do you guys, think that this car is still ahead, or need some reform?

The last resuslts, in BRCA and Euros, Andy Moore not as fine as we have come.

Greetings, Luis C.

tomracing

luic,

for me the cyclone is still a great car that will perform with the big boys.
if you have one already that works why change and learn a different car all over again while your cyclone is still competitive?
just keep your parts fresh and the car will be fine.
as for andy moore in the brca, last year was not that good but this year he seems to be doing okay:
http://www.brca-tc.co.uk/index.php?o...news&Itemid=50

mac853

Thanks for reply.
But which number, could be possible #73506, isn't it?

Best regards

Phil C

Hi Luis,

I have just signed for HB/HPI Europe, after running the Xray car for a couple of seasons...

I was very impressed with the Cyclone the first time I ran it. It had a lot more natural steering than the Xray, and after dialling in some rear traction, I was immediately on the pace.

I do not think the Cyclone is behind, the car has been developed since it was first released, but they have only changed the parts that needed improvement!

I am sure the development of the car will continue, the UK team are playing with various parts at the moment and I beleive HB Japan will be working hard too. My advice would be to stick with the car, you will not be left behind

Phil C

Yes thats the correct part number for the old style arms.

The old front arms are swept back, so you will need to shim them differently to the TC arms in order to maintain the same wheelbase. With the TC arms I run 2.75mm at the front and 0mm behind. With the old style wisbones I run 0.75mm at the front and 2mm behind.

Hope this helps

janux

Hello!

Wanted to get some info on how to improve initial turning, somehow it feels that my car is understeering in the very begining of turn.

We race somehow smooth med grip asphalt.

Haven't setup sheet with me now but as i remember have such settings:
I have WCE edition

Front
Spring: HPI pink
Oil: AE 50wt
Piston: 2hole (stock)
Camber link pos: long, 2mm shim
Camber: 2deg
Caster: 4deg
To block: 1.5
Shims under toe blocks: FF 1.0, FR 1.5
Droop: 5
Toe: 1 out
Wheelbase: F 0.7mm, R 2mm
Ackerman: 3mm
Front drive: diff
Swaybar: 1.4mm

Rear:
Spring: HPI silver
Oil: AE 50wt
Piston: 2hole (stock)
Camber link pos: long, 2mm shim
Camber: 2deg
Rear hub: 0 deg
To block: 2.5
Shims under toe blocks: RF 2.0, RR 2.0
Droop: 5
Wheelbase: F 0.7mm, R 2mm
Read drive: diff
Swaybar: no

Phil C

Hi Janux,

You could try running a little less droop on the front, I usually run 5.5 front and 5 rear.

Have you tried 3 hole 1.1mm pistons? I always run them as I find they make the car more reactive.

tomracing

janux,

also your anti dive at the front
is keeping weight from transferring forward giving you less turn in.
did you try running 1.5mm under all toe-blocks?

janux

Will try to play with droop.

Haven't tried 3 hole pistons, but seems that for last asphalt races and also for upcoming carpet wars, i'll order them.

to Tom:
next week is some practice - so will play also with shims also

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

Hi Phil,

For my education, what changes did you make to achieve the "dialling in some rear traction".

Thanks in advance (from another Phill C)

Phil C

Hi Cosmo,

For me the rear end felt loose coming out of corners, so first I stood up the rear shock from position 4 to position 5. This helped a lot, but I still needed a little more so I tried a Jadd racing 3.5 degree rear toe block which really planted the rear end.

To help the car generate more traction (outdoor asphalt), I also cut the middle of the rear deck so its 2 piece and cut a line down the centre of the TC spec topdeck so that its split up untill the steering post mount. This made the car feel very similar, flex wise, to the 1 piece topdeck the HPI UK team are running at the moment.

Hope this helps,

Phil.

bigz

anyone know how to remove POM's? need to perform bearing maintenance but unfortunately i cannot remove the retaining rings from the outdrives.

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

Very interesting. As my main problem with the kit setup was a rear loose end coming out of corners (and attempting to overtake the front end). I'm still trying different variations on the Hara RROC setup (on a lo-med grip outdoor asphalt track).

Coincidently, going from 4 to 5 could apply to the shock tower or arm position (both make the shock more upright) - which one did you mean ?? If its the lower arm then there is less leverage, more rear roll, and more rear grip (makes sense). If its the tower, then the shock becomes less progressive and a bit "harder" (dont see how this would give more rear grip, therefore makes less sense to me), OR there is a completely different explanation.

Can you please order the changes from most, to least, sensitive ?? I dont have a feel for which changes have the most effect.
Or is it pretty much in the order that you described.
That is, Rear shock position, Rear pivot block angle, Cut middle deck, Cut top deck

I have been playing with the cut middle deck, but have not heard about the cut top deck change before - interesting. There does not seem much to cut on the top deck, basically the small section centered on the belt tensioner post. If so, what do you do with the belt tensioner post (or can it sit over the "slit") ??

Greatly appreciate your thoughts