Hot Bodies Cyclone
05-30-2009, 05:05 AM
Registered User
Timing was at the middle hole, motor temps were comming off at about 170 with 2 fans. Without the fans it was around 200 deg.... but that gearing felt the best overall so I did what I could to bring the temps down. The trinity rotors are really good, so even if you get them hot a few times, they can survive it.
-Korey
-Korey
05-30-2009, 05:18 AM
05-30-2009, 06:31 AM
Tech Adept
Congratulations กกก, for the good results, and thank you very much for share your setups, are there a lot of cyclones drivers all the world, listen here and are good ideas for testing at track.
Thanks, again.
Greetings, Luis C.
Thanks, again.
Greetings, Luis C.
05-30-2009, 07:09 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
anyone want my cyclone S? i have no use for it anymore
05-30-2009, 07:22 AM
Registered User
Well, I'm back in Bellingham doing the normal school stuff. I'm taking a break from my studies to post up my Reedy Race setup. The car was very easy to drive in the given conditions. Track was pretty high grip, and we were using Jaco Blues.
Front:
Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 45
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Rebound: Full rebound with no foam
Camber link Position: long, with 2mm under the inner mount.
Camber: 2.5 deg
Toe: 1 deg out
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.0 deg
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.0mm all around
Swaybar: 1.4mm w/ new style mount, with the screws backed out 3mm
Droop: 9.0mm from the center of the outer hinge pin to the setup board
Ride height: 5mm
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front
Rear:
Spring: Silver
Oil: Losi 35wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Rebound: full without foam
Shock position: 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber: 2.5 deg
Camber Link Position: long with 1.5mm under the inner pivot, and 1mm on the outer pivot.
Toe block: 2 deg
Shims under suspension mounts: 1.5mm all around
Swaybar: 1.2mm on new style mount with screws backed out 1mm.
Droop: 8.5mm measured from the outer hinge pin to the setup board.
Ride Height: 5mm
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7mm behind it, and 2mm in front of hub, .7mm behind it.
Other:
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool with MIP CVD's
Body: LW Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 mounted a tick forward
Wing: LW wing
Tires: Jaco blue premounts
Sauce: tweak/buggy grip
Motor: Team Trinity Duo 13.5
ESC: LRP SPX
Gearing: 100/40
Hope thats everything! Let me know if you have any questions.
-Korey
Front:
Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 45
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Rebound: Full rebound with no foam
Camber link Position: long, with 2mm under the inner mount.
Camber: 2.5 deg
Toe: 1 deg out
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.0 deg
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.0mm all around
Swaybar: 1.4mm w/ new style mount, with the screws backed out 3mm
Droop: 9.0mm from the center of the outer hinge pin to the setup board
Ride height: 5mm
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front
Rear:
Spring: Silver
Oil: Losi 35wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Rebound: full without foam
Shock position: 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber: 2.5 deg
Camber Link Position: long with 1.5mm under the inner pivot, and 1mm on the outer pivot.
Toe block: 2 deg
Shims under suspension mounts: 1.5mm all around
Swaybar: 1.2mm on new style mount with screws backed out 1mm.
Droop: 8.5mm measured from the outer hinge pin to the setup board.
Ride Height: 5mm
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7mm behind it, and 2mm in front of hub, .7mm behind it.
Other:
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool with MIP CVD's
Body: LW Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 mounted a tick forward
Wing: LW wing
Tires: Jaco blue premounts
Sauce: tweak/buggy grip
Motor: Team Trinity Duo 13.5
ESC: LRP SPX
Gearing: 100/40
Hope thats everything! Let me know if you have any questions.
-Korey
05-30-2009, 08:52 AM
Hi everyone, what front would you all recommend to get some more steering in my Cyclone,I run on a fairly tight track and I am using a supplied one-way at the moment and suffer from bad understeer,any help or advise would be appreciated,cheers.
P.S.....or maybe I need to control my trigger finger a little better...
P.S.....or maybe I need to control my trigger finger a little better...
05-30-2009, 09:18 AM
Korey, what is the difference between Losi oil and AE oil ? Is the Losi softer given the same weight ?
Thanks.
Thanks.
05-30-2009, 09:58 AM
I used 4mm for the ackerman shims.
Losi oil is a bit thicker I think. Hara did a lot of testing on a bunch of different shock oils and he said Losi was the best. That's probably the only reason I use Losi oil now... and it comes in cool colors!
-Korey
Losi oil is a bit thicker I think. Hara did a lot of testing on a bunch of different shock oils and he said Losi was the best. That's probably the only reason I use Losi oil now... and it comes in cool colors!
-Korey
05-30-2009, 10:09 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Korey or Hiro - what lipo plates were you running? The PPD needs to be glued doesn't it?
05-30-2009, 10:13 AM
I use this special tape that I guess carpenters use. It's extremely thin and clear, but REALLY sticky. I just use two small squares and the lipo plate is STUCK to the battery. The ppd billet plates don't have big enough "bumps" in the to fill up the cell slots on the cyclone TC chassis though. I just push the plate to the front-outside of the slots. When you tape everything in, just make sure the tape is touching the bumps so it sits still
-Korey
05-30-2009, 10:16 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Ha Chris. You should have stopped by and introduced yourself. I came by on Sunday and everytime I saw you, you were volunteering to turn-marshal. Game on anytime soon?
05-30-2009, 10:18 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
I ran PPD billet plates, and I think Hiro did as well. Kevin is a local racer to me so I like to support him and his products.
I use this special tape that I guess carpenters use. It's extremely thin and clear, but REALLY sticky. I just use two small squares and the lipo plate is STUCK to the battery. The ppd billet plates don't have big enough "bumps" in the to fill up the cell slots on the cyclone TC chassis though. I just push the plate to the front-outside of the slots. When you tape everything in, just make sure the tape is touching the bumps so it sits still
-Korey
I use this special tape that I guess carpenters use. It's extremely thin and clear, but REALLY sticky. I just use two small squares and the lipo plate is STUCK to the battery. The ppd billet plates don't have big enough "bumps" in the to fill up the cell slots on the cyclone TC chassis though. I just push the plate to the front-outside of the slots. When you tape everything in, just make sure the tape is touching the bumps so it sits still
-Korey
05-30-2009, 12:05 PM
Not yet, maybe if there is enough demand he'll make them. Since it's for one specific car, he's been hesitant on making them. His current lipo plates will work in just about any car in some way or another.
-Korey
-Korey
05-30-2009, 05:31 PM
Manutech racing sells lipo plates for the cyclone tc, you can buy them from stormer hobbies i think.
05-30-2009, 09:09 PM
