Hot Bodies Cyclone
Hi all,
Sorry if this as been discussed before, I have used the search funtion, but haven't found a answer...
I will be runing for the first time the Cylone TC, but im not sure what setup i should try. I run ruber on asphalt in fast, flowing tracks. Grip is usually low.
My base setup on the cyclone AM is something like this:
Front:
60W oil on #3 holes
0º toe
silver/Pink springs
2/3 shock position
5.00mm droop
Rear
50W oil on 3# holes
3º toe
blue springs
1,5/2,5 shock position
5,5mm droop
Everything else is standard.
What should i try first on the TC? Do you recomend using the new arm shock positions? What about shock oil?
Thanks in advance for any help
Sorry if this as been discussed before, I have used the search funtion, but haven't found a answer...
I will be runing for the first time the Cylone TC, but im not sure what setup i should try. I run ruber on asphalt in fast, flowing tracks. Grip is usually low.
My base setup on the cyclone AM is something like this:
Front:
60W oil on #3 holes
0º toe
silver/Pink springs
2/3 shock position
5.00mm droop
Rear
50W oil on 3# holes
3º toe
blue springs
1,5/2,5 shock position
5,5mm droop
Everything else is standard.
What should i try first on the TC? Do you recomend using the new arm shock positions? What about shock oil?
Thanks in advance for any help
Reedy Race?
Hi, just want to know if anyone will go to Reedy Race cause want to see the Team even stronger this year.
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Hi all,
Sorry if this as been discussed before, I have used the search funtion, but haven't found a answer...
I will be runing for the first time the Cylone TC, but im not sure what setup i should try. I run ruber on asphalt in fast, flowing tracks. Grip is usually low.
My base setup on the cyclone AM is something like this:
Front:
60W oil on #3 holes
0º toe
silver/Pink springs
2/3 shock position
5.00mm droop
Rear
50W oil on 3# holes
3º toe
blue springs
1,5/2,5 shock position
5,5mm droop
Everything else is standard.
What should i try first on the TC? Do you recomend using the new arm shock positions? What about shock oil?
Thanks in advance for any help
Sorry if this as been discussed before, I have used the search funtion, but haven't found a answer...
I will be runing for the first time the Cylone TC, but im not sure what setup i should try. I run ruber on asphalt in fast, flowing tracks. Grip is usually low.
My base setup on the cyclone AM is something like this:
Front:
60W oil on #3 holes
0º toe
silver/Pink springs
2/3 shock position
5.00mm droop
Rear
50W oil on 3# holes
3º toe
blue springs
1,5/2,5 shock position
5,5mm droop
Everything else is standard.
What should i try first on the TC? Do you recomend using the new arm shock positions? What about shock oil?
Thanks in advance for any help
Since your "basic" package is all in the ballpark, it's all about playing with little things around the car. If you post a full detailed setup, and maybe what you feel is lacking, we would be able to help you a little better.
-Korey
The setup doesn't look too bad so far. The common trend with Hara and Andy are to run lighter springs and fairly heavy oil, which is similar to what you have. How many shims are you running under the suspension blocks? Those can help with the overall balance of the car depending on how you use them. You could also play with arm sweep (front toe block). The more sweep you have, the more mid corner steering you'll notice.
Since your "basic" package is all in the ballpark, it's all about playing with little things around the car. If you post a full detailed setup, and maybe what you feel is lacking, we would be able to help you a little better.
-Korey
Since your "basic" package is all in the ballpark, it's all about playing with little things around the car. If you post a full detailed setup, and maybe what you feel is lacking, we would be able to help you a little better.
-Korey
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Every time I've used sweep it has given me more steering right at the apex of the corner, and smoothed out entry a little bit.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
Thank you Jesus!
Hello Everyone,
Hiro Kasuya from Hot Bodies USA R&D asked me to post this up for everyone to see. Hot Bodies has been working on developing improved driveshafts with greater efficiency. When installed on the front of the car, they will reduce the common "chatter" we experience when using a spool or turning at extreme angles. Testing has shown that they also provide a little more steering overall!!! Release date is to be announced, so stay tuned!
-Korey
Hiro Kasuya from Hot Bodies USA R&D asked me to post this up for everyone to see. Hot Bodies has been working on developing improved driveshafts with greater efficiency. When installed on the front of the car, they will reduce the common "chatter" we experience when using a spool or turning at extreme angles. Testing has shown that they also provide a little more steering overall!!! Release date is to be announced, so stay tuned!
-Korey
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
I have been running them for quite a while and they still work great. I do clean them up and add some grease once in a while but that's it. As for the durability, I would say they have pretty much the same durablity as the regular universal/cvd shafts. I didn't break any DCJ Shafts but i'm way too far from Hara's level I think i'm good enough for durability testing for you guys.
Thanks,
Thanks,
- Chris
3.0 would be max arm sweep and 0 would be zero arm sweep.
I've used the 0 block up front running rubber/carpet. It made the corner feel two-stage and non-linear. Car would have this initial dartyness going in then would understeer throughout the corner. Really difficult to drive. The added arm sweep of the 1.5 block smoothed out response throughout the entire corner. On asphalt all I run is the 2.5 up front.
An added benefit of more arm sweep is less chatter. The increased angle of the arm actually decreases the angle on the CVD while cornering.
I've used the 0 block up front running rubber/carpet. It made the corner feel two-stage and non-linear. Car would have this initial dartyness going in then would understeer throughout the corner. Really difficult to drive. The added arm sweep of the 1.5 block smoothed out response throughout the entire corner. On asphalt all I run is the 2.5 up front.
An added benefit of more arm sweep is less chatter. The increased angle of the arm actually decreases the angle on the CVD while cornering.
The setup doesn't look too bad so far. The common trend with Hara and Andy are to run lighter springs and fairly heavy oil, which is similar to what you have. How many shims are you running under the suspension blocks? Those can help with the overall balance of the car depending on how you use them. You could also play with arm sweep (front toe block). The more sweep you have, the more mid corner steering you'll notice.
Since your "basic" package is all in the ballpark, it's all about playing with little things around the car. If you post a full detailed setup, and maybe what you feel is lacking, we would be able to help you a little better.
-Korey
Since your "basic" package is all in the ballpark, it's all about playing with little things around the car. If you post a full detailed setup, and maybe what you feel is lacking, we would be able to help you a little better.
-Korey
Usually i run 2.5mm shim in the front and 2mm in the back.
Actually i havent haven't finished building the TC, let a lone try it. I was asking just to get a general ideia about a base setup to work with.
I will try using my base setup, but with 2 holes shock piston and 60W/50W (F/R) oil. Or do you think that would be to much?
I have used 2.5 and 1.5 arm sweep in the past, but usually i end up with 0º, because the car seems easier on the chicanes.
But i will give it a shot with the TC.
Thanks!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Thank you very much Korey
Usually i run 2.5mm shim in the front and 2mm in the back.
Actually i havent haven't finished building the TC, let a lone try it. I was asking just to get a general ideia about a base setup to work with.
I will try using my base setup, but with 2 holes shock piston and 60W/50W (F/R) oil. Or do you think that would be to much?
I have used 2.5 and 1.5 arm sweep in the past, but usually i end up with 0º, because the car seems easier on the chicanes.
But i will give it a shot with the TC.
Thanks!
Usually i run 2.5mm shim in the front and 2mm in the back.
Actually i havent haven't finished building the TC, let a lone try it. I was asking just to get a general ideia about a base setup to work with.
I will try using my base setup, but with 2 holes shock piston and 60W/50W (F/R) oil. Or do you think that would be to much?
I have used 2.5 and 1.5 arm sweep in the past, but usually i end up with 0º, because the car seems easier on the chicanes.
But i will give it a shot with the TC.
Thanks!
Now just to clarify about your shims... are those under the camber link? Or under the suspension/toe blocks? That seems to be a little much if it's under the suspension blocks. If it's under the camber links then that seems about right.
-Korey
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
3.0 would be max arm sweep and 0 would be zero arm sweep.
I've used the 0 block up front running rubber/carpet. It made the corner feel two-stage and non-linear. Car would have this initial dartyness going in then would understeer throughout the corner. Really difficult to drive. The added arm sweep of the 1.5 block smoothed out response throughout the entire corner. On asphalt all I run is the 2.5 up front.
An added benefit of more arm sweep is less chatter. The increased angle of the arm actually decreases the angle on the CVD while cornering.
I've used the 0 block up front running rubber/carpet. It made the corner feel two-stage and non-linear. Car would have this initial dartyness going in then would understeer throughout the corner. Really difficult to drive. The added arm sweep of the 1.5 block smoothed out response throughout the entire corner. On asphalt all I run is the 2.5 up front.
An added benefit of more arm sweep is less chatter. The increased angle of the arm actually decreases the angle on the CVD while cornering.
-Korey