Hot Bodies Cyclone
Couple of the mods I've been working on for running lipos. In this case Orion carbon packs. I've held off running lipos since my car was so well balanced with nimh. First I weighed a 6 cell nimh pack 15.1 oz, then a carbon lipo pack 7.9 oz. I then knew what my difference would be and worked on a strategy to balance out the weight. The biggest problem I've found that most people just stick on weights to their packs. First, I don't like this cause it always puts the weights unevenly on the battery and usually in a position that makes it hang off the side. This isn't optimum since it will affect the balance greatly depending on where it is positioned. Obviously more off to the side would have a greater swing weight and inside might not be enough to balance since further out and the weight would have more leverage. Next, I never liked having all my packs with weight on them, just looks bad and my packs are always changing. I also use my packs for my offroad buggy, so they can't have weight on them permanently. Lastly, since the weight distribution is so much different than nimh, I thought a bit of trial and error would be needed. Here's what I ended up with and I'll explain how I got there.
First was the rear weights. Pretty straight forward, and they fit fairly neat and still have room for strapping tape. I found the carbon fiber "look" weights I found oversees and the common lead weight I just sprayed with a black rubber that I bought from Home Depot. Next is the front weight. Same as the back. I still have a bit of room as I fine tune to add more. Since I don't run the upper deck posts up front I have more room and I also just cut and sanded the upper deck to reflect this.
Last edited by edseb; 12-17-2008 at 03:37 PM.
Next was the weight needed to be around middle. I wanted something moveable so I could experiment with fore and aft positioning. I used a piece of lexan from a 1/8 scale buggy body since it is real thick and durable and the inner radius matches the rounded corners of the lipo pack. I put some weight on the sides and shrink wrapped more weight to the top. All weights are shoe goo'd on. I don't like using double side tape since it creates unwanted gaps and shoe goo is more secure and looks better. I didn't want to go too wide with the piece since the strapping tape still needs to do its job of holding the battery in place. The lexan is still farely wide so I added 2 holes to help the tape grab the top of the battery. This system allows me to move the battery weights forward or back as I fine tune the cars handling and I can use it with any of my packs.
Last edited by edseb; 12-17-2008 at 03:45 PM.
Now with the tape, the battery is pretty secure from front to back, but even with the battery inserts on the chassis I never liked the play the battery had side to side. I found a piece of plastic straw from my motor spray to be the perfect diameter in order to fill the gap on the much more round edge of the bottom of the battery. i shoe goo'd that in too and it fits perfect and happened to be the perfect length. Now the battery is snug and secure side to side and doesn't really look too bad.
Even with all these mods of weight, I'm still a little light, so they may go in the front with the rest or in other places as I see what the car is doing. I am also planning on running the newer 3800 packs which are on the way. I know the dimensions are the same, but until I weigh them and see if there is any difference in weight, I'll leave off to be added for variances. Also with the room, I was still able to keep my wiring low and use bullets that have a cut out on the side so I could solder the wire at a 90* angle. I can keep it under the upper deck and each is marked and at the length where accidentally plugging in backwards is impossible. So far my experiment is feeling good, but the proof is on the track. BTW, I know I'm still missing a screw on the right side rear, but the one that was on it was too long and scrapping the top of the battery, so need to get the correct size. Comments?
Last edited by edseb; 12-17-2008 at 03:47 PM.
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Next was the weight needed to be around middle. I wanted something moveable so I could experiment with fore and aft positioning. I used a piece of lexan from a 1/8 scale buggy body since it is real thick and durable and the inner radius matches the rounded corners of the lipo pack. I put some weight on the sides and shrink wrapped more weight to the top. All weights are shoe goo'd on. I don't like using double side tape since it creates unwanted gaps and shoe goo is more secure and looks better. I didn't want to go too wide with the piece since the strapping tape still needs to do its job of holding the battery in place. The lexan is still farely wide so I added 2 holes to help the tape grab the top of the battery. This system allows me to move the battery weights forward or back as I fine tune the cars handling and I can use it with any of my packs.
Now with the tape, the battery is pretty secure from front to back, but even with the battery inserts on the chassis I never liked the play the battery had side to side. I found a piece of plastic straw from my motor spray to be the perfect diameter in order to fill the gap on the much more round edge of the bottom of the battery. i shoe goo'd that in too and it fits perfect and happened to be the perfect length. Now the battery is snug and secure side to side and doesn't really look too bad.
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ha ha, nah just need to find the right length since the current one was going too far down and hit the top of the lipo pack.
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Nah, not yet, but until I get my new packs no point in adding weight until I can weigh the new ones with the same dimensions. With nimh the car was near 1525 but with new rules changing to 1500 I will be working on different layouts for weights, that part of the reason for this experiment.
ha ha, nah just need to find the right length since the current one was going too far down and hit the top of the lipo pack.
ha ha, nah just need to find the right length since the current one was going too far down and hit the top of the lipo pack.
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Hey guys, I have a quick question. Well, a couple questions actually. I just found where HB offers a brushless motor mount for the TC. What is different about this from the kit motor mount? Is it a definite necessity for running BL? Also, what pivot blocks are included in the kit? Lastly, the aluminum steering links, are they a big advantage? Going to make an order tomorrow (including the kit itself) and just want to get everything that I need. Thanks in advance.
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Good stuff Carl...Thanks for sharing the pics of the mods you did!
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Even with all these mods of weight, I'm still a little light, so they may go in the front with the rest or in other places as I see what the car is doing. I am also planning on running the newer 3800 packs which are on the way. I know the dimensions are the same, but until I weigh them and see if there is any difference in weight, I'll leave off to be added for variances. Also with the room, I was still able to keep my wiring low and use bullets that have a cut out on the side so I could solder the wire at a 90* angle. I can keep it under the upper deck and each is marked and at the length where accidentally plugging in backwards is impossible. So far my experiment is feeling good, but the proof is on the track. BTW, I know I'm still missing a screw on the right side rear, but the one that was on it was too long and scrapping the top of the battery, so need to get the correct size. Comments?
Clint, do you actually have your Orion ESC? I cant find them in stock anywhere
You running the orion motors also im guessing? If so, hows the 13.5?
You running the orion motors also im guessing? If so, hows the 13.5?
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1. Christmas has me a little tapped out.
2. I want to run the motor using the LRP so that I get a feel for how the motor runs.
I think that after one day of racing I will have a good feel for how these motors run and after that I can then switch to the Orion speedo.
I found that the BL motor mount tweaked my car a little so have gone back to the original now.