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Old 12-17-2008, 03:18 PM
  #14761  
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Couple of the mods I've been working on for running lipos. In this case Orion carbon packs. I've held off running lipos since my car was so well balanced with nimh. First I weighed a 6 cell nimh pack 15.1 oz, then a carbon lipo pack 7.9 oz. I then knew what my difference would be and worked on a strategy to balance out the weight. The biggest problem I've found that most people just stick on weights to their packs. First, I don't like this cause it always puts the weights unevenly on the battery and usually in a position that makes it hang off the side. This isn't optimum since it will affect the balance greatly depending on where it is positioned. Obviously more off to the side would have a greater swing weight and inside might not be enough to balance since further out and the weight would have more leverage. Next, I never liked having all my packs with weight on them, just looks bad and my packs are always changing. I also use my packs for my offroad buggy, so they can't have weight on them permanently. Lastly, since the weight distribution is so much different than nimh, I thought a bit of trial and error would be needed. Here's what I ended up with and I'll explain how I got there.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-all.jpg  
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:22 PM
  #14762  
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First was the rear weights. Pretty straight forward, and they fit fairly neat and still have room for strapping tape. I found the carbon fiber "look" weights I found oversees and the common lead weight I just sprayed with a black rubber that I bought from Home Depot. Next is the front weight. Same as the back. I still have a bit of room as I fine tune to add more. Since I don't run the upper deck posts up front I have more room and I also just cut and sanded the upper deck to reflect this.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-rear-weights.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-front-weights.jpg  

Last edited by edseb; 12-17-2008 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:27 PM
  #14763  
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Next was the weight needed to be around middle. I wanted something moveable so I could experiment with fore and aft positioning. I used a piece of lexan from a 1/8 scale buggy body since it is real thick and durable and the inner radius matches the rounded corners of the lipo pack. I put some weight on the sides and shrink wrapped more weight to the top. All weights are shoe goo'd on. I don't like using double side tape since it creates unwanted gaps and shoe goo is more secure and looks better. I didn't want to go too wide with the piece since the strapping tape still needs to do its job of holding the battery in place. The lexan is still farely wide so I added 2 holes to help the tape grab the top of the battery. This system allows me to move the battery weights forward or back as I fine tune the cars handling and I can use it with any of my packs.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-battery-weight.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-battery-weight-hand.jpg  

Last edited by edseb; 12-17-2008 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:29 PM
  #14764  
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Now with the tape, the battery is pretty secure from front to back, but even with the battery inserts on the chassis I never liked the play the battery had side to side. I found a piece of plastic straw from my motor spray to be the perfect diameter in order to fill the gap on the much more round edge of the bottom of the battery. i shoe goo'd that in too and it fits perfect and happened to be the perfect length. Now the battery is snug and secure side to side and doesn't really look too bad.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:31 PM
  #14765  
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Even with all these mods of weight, I'm still a little light, so they may go in the front with the rest or in other places as I see what the car is doing. I am also planning on running the newer 3800 packs which are on the way. I know the dimensions are the same, but until I weigh them and see if there is any difference in weight, I'll leave off to be added for variances. Also with the room, I was still able to keep my wiring low and use bullets that have a cut out on the side so I could solder the wire at a 90* angle. I can keep it under the upper deck and each is marked and at the length where accidentally plugging in backwards is impossible. So far my experiment is feeling good, but the proof is on the track. BTW, I know I'm still missing a screw on the right side rear, but the one that was on it was too long and scrapping the top of the battery, so need to get the correct size. Comments?

Last edited by edseb; 12-17-2008 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by edseb
Next was the weight needed to be around middle. I wanted something moveable so I could experiment with fore and aft positioning. I used a piece of lexan from a 1/8 scale buggy body since it is real thick and durable and the inner radius matches the rounded corners of the lipo pack. I put some weight on the sides and shrink wrapped more weight to the top. All weights are shoe goo'd on. I don't like using double side tape since it creates unwanted gaps and shoe goo is more secure and looks better. I didn't want to go too wide with the piece since the strapping tape still needs to do its job of holding the battery in place. The lexan is still farely wide so I added 2 holes to help the tape grab the top of the battery. This system allows me to move the battery weights forward or back as I fine tune the cars handling and I can use it with any of my packs.
I knew I've seen that hand before. Page 17 of the JC penny add.....LOL So the car with a body on is 1525???? How light are you? Looks sweet bro

Originally Posted by edseb
Now with the tape, the battery is pretty secure from front to back, but even with the battery inserts on the chassis I never liked the play the battery had side to side. I found a piece of plastic straw from my motor spray to be the perfect diameter in order to fill the gap on the much more round edge of the bottom of the battery. i shoe goo'd that in too and it fits perfect and happened to be the perfect length. Now the battery is snug and secure side to side and doesn't really look too bad.
You already answered that.
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Old 12-17-2008, 04:00 PM
  #14767  
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Originally Posted by shadow102
$5-6 from nexus racing depending on the hardness and that's one in a package or they offer 5 for $30
$6 for one knuckle? If it breaks then I'm right back to the HB situation. Looks like going with the alum knuckle is going to be the better option.
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Old 12-17-2008, 04:05 PM
  #14768  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
I knew I've seen that hand before. Page 17 of the JC penny add.....LOL So the car with a body on is 1525???? Looks sweet bro

Is the screw missing out of the top deck for added flex????
Nah, not yet, but until I get my new packs no point in adding weight until I can weigh the new ones with the same dimensions. With nimh the car was near 1525 but with new rules changing to 1500 I will be working on different layouts for weights, that part of the reason for this experiment.

ha ha, nah just need to find the right length since the current one was going too far down and hit the top of the lipo pack.
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Old 12-17-2008, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by edseb
Nah, not yet, but until I get my new packs no point in adding weight until I can weigh the new ones with the same dimensions. With nimh the car was near 1525 but with new rules changing to 1500 I will be working on different layouts for weights, that part of the reason for this experiment.

ha ha, nah just need to find the right length since the current one was going too far down and hit the top of the lipo pack.
I'm in the same boat. I have some Orion 3800's coming as well. I'm going to balance the car from left to right and then use the middle, and under the front and read diffs to add weight. I will also be rebalncing the left to right weight when I get the new Orion speedo sometime after Christmas. Since all I run is sedan I can attach the weights to the battery with shoe goo. We also don't just use the regular tape weights. I'll see if I can get my buddy to post pics of the weight he made for his batteries. He got the stuff from his job. It looks neater too He will be making two more for the two batteries that should be here tomorrow.
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Old 12-17-2008, 04:18 PM
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Hey guys, I have a quick question. Well, a couple questions actually. I just found where HB offers a brushless motor mount for the TC. What is different about this from the kit motor mount? Is it a definite necessity for running BL? Also, what pivot blocks are included in the kit? Lastly, the aluminum steering links, are they a big advantage? Going to make an order tomorrow (including the kit itself) and just want to get everything that I need. Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-17-2008, 04:20 PM
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Good stuff Carl...Thanks for sharing the pics of the mods you did!
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Old 12-17-2008, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by edseb
Even with all these mods of weight, I'm still a little light, so they may go in the front with the rest or in other places as I see what the car is doing. I am also planning on running the newer 3800 packs which are on the way. I know the dimensions are the same, but until I weigh them and see if there is any difference in weight, I'll leave off to be added for variances. Also with the room, I was still able to keep my wiring low and use bullets that have a cut out on the side so I could solder the wire at a 90* angle. I can keep it under the upper deck and each is marked and at the length where accidentally plugging in backwards is impossible. So far my experiment is feeling good, but the proof is on the track. BTW, I know I'm still missing a screw on the right side rear, but the one that was on it was too long and scrapping the top of the battery, so need to get the correct size. Comments?
UPS delivered my package this evening so I weighed the packs. The 3800 is 8.0oz or 228g I know that you have some coming but hopefully this will aloow you to get a jump on your balancing system.
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Old 12-17-2008, 08:22 PM
  #14773  
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Clint, do you actually have your Orion ESC? I cant find them in stock anywhere

You running the orion motors also im guessing? If so, hows the 13.5?
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Old 12-17-2008, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
Clint, do you actually have your Orion ESC? I cant find them in stock anywhere

You running the orion motors also im guessing? If so, hows the 13.5?
I just got my motors and batteries today so I haven't had a chance to run them yet. The speedo has to wait until the first of the year for two reasons.
1. Christmas has me a little tapped out.
2. I want to run the motor using the LRP so that I get a feel for how the motor runs.

I think that after one day of racing I will have a good feel for how these motors run and after that I can then switch to the Orion speedo.
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Old 12-18-2008, 12:21 AM
  #14775  
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Originally Posted by Zdiddy
Hey guys, I have a quick question. Well, a couple questions actually. I just found where HB offers a brushless motor mount for the TC. What is different about this from the kit motor mount? Is it a definite necessity for running BL?
The BL motor mount isn't needed for running BL. It raises the spur by 2mm to allow you to fit a larger spur gear, but you can run a 108 or even 110 (the largest you should need) with only the 110 sticking out of the chassis very slightly with the original motor mount.

I found that the BL motor mount tweaked my car a little so have gone back to the original now.
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